None of my other faucets have one, and my RO faucet is spurting from the air gap. It’s not the drain, seems like high water pressure. Anyhow I’d like to bypass it instead of installing a pressure regulator only because it’s cheaper. If it’s against code I’ll get the regulator. Anyhow any help would be appreciated!!
Currently, I've plumbed in a p-trap to sanitary tee (both 1.5") to our waste stack (2") under the kitchen sink. Above the sanitary tee on the waste stack is an AAV, which is 6" above the top of the trap weir.
https://imgur.com/a/5wBFh
I was running the dishwasher waste line to the garbage disposal with a high loop, but upon contacting the local authority, was told that we need to either have an above-counter Air Gap, or an under-counter Air Gap that discharges into a standpipe that's 15" tall above the trap weir.
I'm hoping that upon final inspection, the inspector won't be concerned with the high loop and shrug it off. In the event that it's a problem, I'm considering options to add a solution in-place without cutting the current implementation off at the primary stack and starting over.
Could I add a wye where the disposal connects which would run over to the edge of the cabinet, and then elbows up (hopefully 15"?)
I'm curious if this would be acceptable, as I'd really prefer not to plumb a second trap solely for the dishwasher (and redo everthing already in place.)
Or, perhaps I have other options?
Adding a check valve (or even two check valves in series) seems like a better solution than Air Gaps discharging into open stand pipes (which could hypothetically overflow in the event of a plug!)
We are considering getting a sink that has only a single hole. My understanding is that the plumbing code in our area requires an air gap for dishwashers. Since the sink has only one hole, it isn't clear to us if we can use it in a way that complies with the code.
From reading online, I have seen these options.
- Drill another hole in the sink. (Based on what the manufacturer has stated, I believe this will void the sink's warranty.)
- Install the air gap underneath the sink. (I believe this does not comply with the plumbing code.)
- Use the punch-out in the sink to punch out a hole for the air gap (I don't think this sink has a punch-out).
So, at the moment, it looks like our options are either to void the warranty, settle for not complying with the code, or look for a new sink. Are there any other options?
My reverse osmosis system (RO90) is in the basement and already has a drain to a waste pipe. I'm redoing my kitchen and will be hooking my RO water (plastic tube) to a new stainless steel faucet that has both instant hot and cold water (this will be next to my main faucet which does not have RO). The faucet maker sells an air gap but I'm confused if I need that for this particular installation because I'm draining to waste in the basement and not under the sink. Appreciate the help.
My house is a 1950 cape code with brick wall construction. Not brick facade, structural brick -- 2 wythes thick (see: 2nd from right on this page). The interior walls are drywall affixed to shallow, 1-2" deep wood studs. Insulation in these cavities is minimal to non-existent from what I can tell.
On the first floor, on the outer walls, there are areas where either the quarter round is separated from the baseboard or, in the case of our dining room, missing entirely (we pulled up old carpeting and haven't gotten around to refinishing the wood floor and adding quarter round. (See pics here).
The gap between the bottom of the floorboard and the wood floor noticeably allows air -- I think from the cavity between the brick and the drywall? -- to enter rooms. This is most noticeable on cold days in winter.
My question is: can I air seal this gap with either some closed cell spray foam or caulk? I plan to remove and re-install the quarter round that has gaps. I'm leaning towards caulk, since it seems more controllable and less messy -- especially since the gap is inconsistent in places. What type of caulk would be best for this?
Thanks.
Last night I had a rice mishap where a bunch of uncooked rice ended up going down the drain... and yes, it got clogged. sigh
Got the plunger but no avail. So today I got one of those cans of compressed air... and bam... blew out all the plumbing below the kitchen sink.
Water and rice everywhere. Plus, I still think the rest of the pipes may have more rice still. Hard to tell.
Plumber can't come until Saturday, which is probably good as I'll need a bit of time to clean up this mess.
Just ranting :(
Update: I reattached the trap, after cleaning it. Needs to be replaced, but I can run water in one of the two sinks (the other needs the pipe replaced). I'm able to run water without it backing up, so I'm pretty sure the rest of the pipes are clean.
Picked up a Vertuo Plus from FaceBook marketplace (probably a bad sign for things to come).
The original owner said it hadn’t been used but after checking it out, it looks like it’s had some use.
Tried kicking off a cleaning cycle but can’t get the water to run.
Wasted a couple of capsules, it makes the whirring sound then double-flashes red and then goes back to green.
Tried the cleaning cycle and it will flash orange, makes some whirring noises then double red flash before back to flashing orange.
No water has come through, can’t hear the pump sucking.
Suspect it’s an air gap that might be causing the issue but not 100% sure.
Tried the trick of rapidly adding and removing the water tank repeatedly and also tried the ziplock bag trick to put pressure and try and fix the air gap but nothing has worked.
Does this sound like an air gap issue? How can I go about fixing it?
Or have I got a dud unit?
Not sure how the warranty process will work
I recently dropped my macbook air onto tile and everything appears to be fine but I've noticed the right hinge has a gap between the aluminum body and the left one does not. Is this a normal defect or was it caused by the fall? Is it something I should even worry about?
My bedroom floor (hardwood flooring) is very cold near the exterior walls. My basement is unfinished. Initially I was feeling cold wind through the gaps between baseboard and hardwood floor, I have caulked the gaps which somehow stopped the draft but floors are very cold. I thought unsealed rim joist may be the issue…so I have applied foam spray around rim joist which stopped the cold draft through rim joist but floors are still cold and don’t know from somewhere cool air is penetrating the room and making it cold.
Hardwood floor is in average condition with some squeaks and gaps.Previously it has carpet on top of it.
Windows are in good shape and have proper weatherstripping. Attic insulation is also good.
House is built in 1974
I have an air gap in the wood floor near the door, can feel the draft. [Pic](Air gap https://imgur.com/gallery/YHiweGN)
What is an easy short term fix to fill for winter, and is there a recommendation for a different long term fix?
Edit: Gap is next to door on the frame side, not underneath the swing path
Hi I have a Teflon air fry original and I'm just abit worried as it got it today from a friend and want to make sure its safe to use
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