Hi guys and gals. Perhaps someone has experience with this to share.
I'm facing an issue retracting single-acting hydraulic cylinders on tipper trailers, when connected to certain compact/mini loaders like Multione/Avant and compact utility tractors.
Background: The machines have generally 2 hydraulic connections in the back: one pressure + one return. On bigger machinery, the hydraulic connector almost always has also "float" position which ensures free back flow, but for some reason, not on those compact machines.
Connections available on the machine: 1x Pressure connector ; 1x Return connector
Cylinder: Single acting, 1 hydraulic hose for tipping & return
Problem: The cylinder is connected to the pressure outlet and the pressure outlet does not allow free backflow - thus the tipper box does not come down.
Logical answer (not an easy solution): direct flow to return connection when you want to lower the box
Any thoughts how to solve this ?
I though I could do it with an 12V diverter valve to divert hose to return line if activated, but I was thinking if it's possible to solve this with some simple passive components.
So I am doing a college project and using [hydraulic jack like this] (https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51Jyipi4UOL.SY450.jpg) to lift a leg. But the problem is the jack is leaking from between cylinder and piston as can be seen in https://imgur.com/MajK51B. I am using about 10 jacks and most are leaking and all are brand new.
So am I doing something wrong by using non-graded hydraulic oil and possibility of small amount of side load? Or is it because the cheap jacks can't hold pressure for long time? Even when new jack leaked, I am kinda scratching my head for possible problem.
If there are any solution, try to provide those which I can implement in DIY style if possible. Different country so not much resources available here.
So excuse my terminology if incorrect...Building a dump trailer. My experience with hydraulics is from maintaining auto lifts, forklifts etc over the years but not much else. Have a double-acting SPE5030 cylinder, and have a spare power unit from a manlift with a fairly small tank on it (but otherwise seems to spec out right for the application), and is currently set up to be single-acting with a solenoid/mechanical pressure relief - Just fine by me.
Can I run a line from the bottom of the reservoir to the "back" side of the cylinder so that it can hold more fluid? I don't recall the exact numbers, but the tank on the power unit isn't sufficient to push the 5" cylinder all the way. Or will that not work well, and should I instead be re-working the power unit to push both ways (how can I tell if this is possible with it's current valve body, needs to be a closed center valve I think)? https://imgur.com/a/osZCm6H
Not sure where else to post this, the farming subs are more "mini tractor" kind of people.
I got a sickle blade mower that has a single acting hydraulic cylinder that only lifts the blade, it falls under gravity.
The tractor hydraulic remote has two ports and a two way valve (momentary in each direction center neutral). The problem is that the mower just constantly drifts down when the control is in neutral. There's no way to keep it up other than jogging the valve constantly.
I know little about hydraulic terminology. Does this mean that the valve on the tractor is "open center"? Is it possible there's an adjustment on the valve to make it hold pressure on one side when in neutral and release it when you move the opposite way? Or do I need a whole new valve?
I can't really imagine a scenario where it would be OK for the hydraulics to "freewheel" whenever you let go of the handle. Is something broken or is this by design?
Anyway if anyone has any insight or resources I'd appreciate it.
Edit pictures https://photos.app.goo.gl/LA8AZ8bP1mbSUGqt6
Edit: Solved! RTFM situation. The manual made a reference to a screw that can be turned to switch to single-ended operation. But it wasn't a screw and it wasn't where the manual showed it to be. But I found a lever on the bottom of the valve that switched the operating mode to single-action and now it holds pressure until moved in the other direction.
I have a Case VAC with a bucket on it of unknown origin. The lift arms have single acting cylinders on it, which works fine, gravity does a fine job of lowering the bucket, but sometimes it would be useful to be able to apply downward force to the bucket. Can I simple add a port to the cylinders? The valve already has a port.
I am trying to lift around 1400 pounds vertically for a piece of farming equipment using a single-acting hydraulic cylinder. For cost and reliability reasons I would like to use a hand pump to do so. The issue I am having is that the stroke needs to be at least 40 inches, and I am having a hard time finding a pump with both large enough reservoir to accommodate the stroke and a high enough oil output per cycle to be able to raise the cylinder quickly (~5-10 minutes max).
Most pumps that I have found put out less than 1 in^3 of per stroke but are rated to around 10,000 pounds. Does anyone know where I might find hand pumps designed for lower pressure, higher volume applications? I found this video of a hand-operated dumping trailer, which seems to use a pump that would suit my needs, but have been unable to find anything similar to the pump it uses.
I also haven't been able to find very many single-acting hydraulic cylinders with longer strokes (>40 in), though I have found an abundance of double-acting cylinders. My understanding is that I can use a double-acting as a single-acting by simply capping one of the ports. Is this correct? Are there any single-acting cylinder suppliers that make long-stroke models that people know of?
Thanks in advance for any help/reccomendations.
I have this supposedly full cylinder that gased like normal in its first few times. Soon after, it didn't make the traditional psh anymore and the Fizzi button was quite loose to press on, like when there is not much CO2 left.
I tested with another full cylinder and it gased normally with the button clearly hard to press.
Hmm, what is happening? First time ever it does this sheet. Unless it was just a one-time lemon cylinder?
We are leading and trusted Dealers, Distributors, Supplier of SUNRUN Hydraulic Jacks / Cylinders. All the solutions we provide, revolve around Safety, Quality, Service & of-course our Customers. We deal withsingle acting hydraulic jacks / cylinders,single acting flat type, low height,load return, Locknut type jacksDouble Acting Hydraulic jacks, Single Acting / Hollow plunger and Double Acting / Hollow plunger jacks in India.
Hydraulic jacks / Cylinders are a load lifting device which uses hydraulic force for operation .Used to lift heavy item/material to convenient height in order to have accessibility. It ranges from 1 ton to 1000 ton. The pressure rating is 700bar/10,000psi. They are designed based on the requirement of application. They are generally used in sectors like Heavy Engineering, Power plants, Ship Building, Cement & Petrochemicals.
I put a $500 down to reserve this truck that I have never drove. I’m curious is the 4 cylinder worth getting? I’ve read reviews saying the engine isn’t strong enough for the truck. It has no get up. Other taco owners is the 4 cylinder worth it?
Edit*** not a single cab. (Access cab) It has back seats. It’s just not a four door truck. My bad on the confusion
That may be a strong statement, but it's just a masterpiece of acting by Tom Hanks, to capture the raw emotion of complete, trauma-induced shock, and pain, and relief, all hitting a man at once.
https://youtu.be/IJMDdT24_98
And then to consider that it was improvised on the fly, with an unprepared navy crew to bounce off... I have no words.
Tom Hanks on that scene:
>But we had the actual captain of the [USS Bainbridge] with us when we were shooting, and [director Paul Greengrass] said, 'What did you do with Captain Phillips when you first got him onboard?' And the captain said, 'Well, he was a mess, so the first thing we did was take him to the infirmary to get him cleaned up.' And Paul said, 'Well, why don't we go down to the infirmary?'
>We'd never been there. It was not part of it. It wasn't in the schedule. It hadn't been scouted. It wasn't lit. But we went down there — and we had the actual crew of the ship that we were shooting on — and said, 'What would you do to someone that came in here?' And they said, 'Well, we'd lay them down here, and we'd do this and this and this.' Paul said, 'Well, shall we give a try?' And Barry said, 'Well, give me a couple minutes to put up some lights.' We shot it — I don't know, four or five times, I guess.
>We had, literally, the crew of the infirmary. They didn't know they were going to be in a movie that day. They thought they might be dress extras walking around in the background, and here they are — boom — with cameras that are going to be on them.
>The first take I remember completely falling apart because these people had never been in a movie before, and they could not get past the horrible self-consciousness of everything that was going on around them. But we just stopped, and Paul said, 'Don't worry about it. You can't do anything wrong. It's not a test. If it doesn't work, we won't use it. So let's just try it again and see what happens.' At that point, those people were really quite amazing. The freedom in order to give it a shot was so liberating. And everybody was up for it. So it really made itself.
Hey guys sorry if this has been answered before. I've seen a similar post but it's in a more modern engine so I'm having some trouble pinpointing the issue. If it's too specific of a question since it's an older car, please do redirect me to a more appropriate subreddit.
I have a 1927 Durant/Rugby 4 cylinder, it's a very simple engine so maybe if you do not have experience with them, your feedback could still be useful for the basis on what to check. It runs, but the first cylinder doesn't fire. When you remove the spark plug cable while it's running the sound doesn't change, so we know it isn't firing. The exhaust pipe from that cylinder sucks air instead of blowing like the other two pipes (It has 3 straight pipes, one for each hole, middle pipe is shared between 2nd and 3rd cyl). Coil and distributor work properly, were replaced recently. Spark plug as well.
This engine isn't running on an original setup, we have it with a descending carburetor from a Continental 4 cylinder from a Jeep. We had to modify the intake manifold so initially we thought maybe because of the inclination fuel wasn't getting there. That doesn't really seem to be the issue since the spark plug is wet when removed, and the 2nd cylinder fires normally (it shares the intake hole). We adjusted push rod clearance to 0.008 in as the manual says but the issue persists. Spark plug gap is set according to the manual as well.
The other possible issue we can think of is a leak in the manifold; however we poured some oil on the seal and it didn't make any bubbles, so that might not be the issue either. Only thing we can think of is screwed piston rings, however the engine doesn't produce blue smoke and neither the spark plug or the valve itself are moist with oil which would happen if a ring was bad.
This engine has been through a lot, it has some corrosion on the outside which produces minor coolant leaks. It also has a blown gasket, but it's just small bubbles and it holds, the engine has never overheated with us. Since we had it we have never removed the head so we can't really know the condition of the rings. It's actually the last resort, since it will be a lengthy and tough process, because the gasket could be sticky, plus they're rather hard to come by.
Sorry if any parts aren't properly explained, English isn't my native language. Thank you in advance for any responses and please do not hesitate to reply with further questions or redirect me to other forums.
Hey everybody, for two years now I plan a tour withing europe. Where? Well, I don't know exactly yet, but it seems like a trip around the baltic sea. Within these two years there was something standing in the way of this tour... what could that be, weird, huh? Well next year there is no excuse and currently I am looking for a bike. Well, easier spoken than done, because I am a cheap motherfucker and my experience is as follows: I have a Monster 796 which hurts my knees in 2 hours since I am 1.82m, long legs and thin as a stick; I test rode an xtz 660 Tenere last year (as far as I remember). Also the availability isn't too good currently because of the weather (fucking cold and rain) and also I am not so much willing to test ride a bike 400km far away only to realize that I might not be able to get her home.
However, there's plenty fish in the sea. I want something used, something reliable, something for less than 4k€. I have limited space for maintenance, but am not too bad in mechanics. I am coming to one important thing though that is my main question: You can get single cylinder engines or twins. For both options you can get quite reliable bikes as read several times in the internet. But do single cylinder bikes really are suitable for 5.000km/3weeks trips on 90% street? What are your experiences here? Am I worrying too much? Do you have recommendations? My favorites so far are Africa Twins (RD03 preferrably) and Super Teneres, but the prices are quite high. As much as I like a fat R1150GS Adventure, the maintenance costs for BMW are simply a factor I would like to cross out (my Ducati is already eating my wallet) and of course I don't mind having something light between my legs (insert small penis joke).
Thank you in advance and always ride safe!
I guess this would apply to any revolver in the game, really. It would make the weapon type a lot more attractive to use and is a very low effort way to expand on weapon variety. Maybe make the cost tie to a decrease in durability or a slight decrease in accuracy? Overall, handguns need work, though.
Just bought a house and found this in the backyard. 6 ft deep, encased all the way down. Doesn't get any wider at the bottom. About 8 inch diameter. Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/300pv25ro6b81.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4d227544fe66d22d0f781bdf627404bfcc0a37f6
I have an old Camon rotavator, was working fine until this morning. Fired it up (hand start!) and brought it to the muck heap. turned it off while I loaded up, and tried to start up again. It took a heck of a lot of work to get it started at all, and when it did it ran like this, with no power at all. If I had tried to put in gear it would have stalled I'm sure.
https://reddit.com/link/rwlx2q/video/2rczr0hg5v981/player
It has fuel, it has oil, it's not in gear.
this is the plate shows the engine details etc:
https://preview.redd.it/nm3pbrbp5v981.jpg?width=275&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ef2ed7ae66971b90ed830a42769f5010eb8e952f
Any idea what is likely wrong with it? and how would I sort it out?
Thanks!
Hi there,
I was looking for my first reg to use while diving in the UK and abroad, found a great deal at 4thelement on Apeks MTX-RC Single Cylinder Tek Set for 599 queen coins. Is this a good deal? I genuinely don't know and would hate myself if I got something not suitable for myself or at a bad price.
UPDATE #2: it starts but new problem. See new post below.
UPDATE #1: Solved? It’s managed to start solid for two days now but I haven’t ridden it yet. Will consult manual and update. ok so I got it running again. It seems like it did indeed need a new battery. It still starts and idles rough. I’ve poured petrol/gas fuel injector cleaner (this *** IS *** a fuel injection bike!) and since I spent the money on it anyway I’d like help installing a new spark plug (here’s why) I’m also convinced it’ll need anew alternator, I know someone who needed one in their bike with similar symptoms.
Now the manual implies tank removal isn’t necessary but...whatever.
Again it’s a 2009 Suzuki Tu250x single 250cc cylinder with fuel injection. It’s the same exact bike here(as in, the exact frame/VIN pictured, that is my actual bike).
So it turns but won’t start. Or rather it starts after 12 or more hours in the garage. I thought it might be a battery problem related to weather but after riding to my destination on a 75 degree day it won’t start when I tried to leave. The people who I was visiting tried to jump start it but it won’t start. I was smart enough to bring my battery tender but after plugging it in for an hour it acted like it wouldn’t charge. Gave up and called insurance for a tow; when we got home the tow driver was able to start it up no problem after playing around apparently with this thing pictured(I’ll admit I’m not sure what it is; will look at manual). However even following his instructions I wasn’t able to start it.
Has anyone made a single cylinder LS engine from a scrap block?
I've been randomly getting misfires on cylinder 1 on cold start since about June. Took it to a shop about 2 months ago to have it looked at to see what they could find. They did a compression test and ignition system test, said the plugs were the issue so they swapped those out and reset the KAM. Engine ran fine for about a week before it started happening again.
Anyone have a similar experience with their Ecoboost? I noticed a bit of oil on the plugs so I did swap out my cylinder head cover with a new one thinking the gasket might be leaking, but that didn't seem to be the issue. I have noticed the coolant level drops after I top it off so maybe head gasket related? The coolant only seems to drop to the minimum levels and I don't get any white smoke, oil isn't milky, and engine temps seem to be fine when driving though.
