Not sure if this belongs here so mods feel free to remove if not allowed..
Looking at purchasing a late 90s home, smack bang in the worst of the leaky homes era..
Wouldn't be considering it, but it's a private sale and we've been offered it with room for negotiation, and below cv (these issues were unknown, and will provide further room)
Builders report highlighted the cladding issues here.
Photos of the exterior & eaves here -
Prepared to let things go if necessary, but seeing as this is our best chance to get our own home, if there's anything that could be done, or resolved sufficiently to get it by the lender then it would be absolutely amazing!
Yes, we are waiting on some professional advice but I would at least like to mentally prepare for the cost outlay, or if there's anything else that hasn't been considered.
Really appreciate the activity on this sub and everything that has been done over the last year, and wish a happy and healthy new year going forward.
Crucial details -
House is 130m2, 3 bedroom, 1 bathroom, 1 garage. Single story, high ceiling in living room (no attic).
Full access to the perimeter.
Believe that most of the damage is located on one wall, two window sills need to be rectified and have high moisture readings. Rest are inconsequential.
Hello, I've been looking into insulating the walls of my unfinished block foundation basement. I stumbled across a Graphite infused Polystyrene (GPS) product from Insulfoam. They claim r5.1 per inch at 25F, 4.9 at 40F, and 4.7 at 75F for their Type I. Similar r-values for Types VIII, II, and IX (densities 1, 1.25, 1.5, and 2 pcf respectively).
It sure would be nice to have higher r-value per inch thickness as for sure I'd like to retain as much of my basement as possible. How new is this graphite infused technology? I tried searching this subreddit without any results. It also claims no thermal drift because they use air instead of other gasses (100% 20 year thermal warranty) and 80% less water absorption than their regular EPS product and 94.7% less water absorption than their XPS product
Anyway, just looking for some conversation regarding this. I have no financial ties to Insulfoam or any insulation company. I'm just a DIYer not even a professional tradesman of any kind
I've never worked with polystyrene cement before. Can I go ahead and prime/ paint models before gluing them together, or will the paint not allow them to stick?
New to diorama making here - I’m learning so I can add scenery to my growing Christmas village.
I’m interested in making mountain scenery with stairs that lead up to one of the houses I have. To do this, I’ll need blocks of polystyrene. However, online I only seen to be able to find sheets of it - not blocks. Does anyone know where I can get blocks of it from online in the U.K.?
I am looking to improve the quality of my gaming setup from the audio point of view, since I stream and create content on YouTube and my gaming setup is located in an open space with a lot of echo.
I wanted to install those Polystyrene 3D Wall Panels, the one with different 3D shaped polygons, but I was wandering if those are even good for my audio setup, since I cannot find that many info related to the acoustic properties of those panels.
My goal is not to isolate sound coming in between the rooms, but to avoid echo and weird sounds bouncing on all the walls in front and on the side of the microphone.
My gaming setup is placed in between 3 wall, one in front of the desk, which it is touching the wall, and 2 on both sides of the desk (one side is the width of the desk, while the other is way longer since it's an open space) which it is also touching the walls on both sides.
The main Idea is to install those Polystyrene panels on all 3 walls the desk is touching, but will it solve the echo issue or for that it is better to scrap the idea of installing those Polystyrene panels and instead buying proper acoustic foam panels?
Thanks all in advance!
I'm trying to shrink transparent tissue culture dishes which are made of polystyrene, the stuff used in Shrinky Dinks. The issue is I can never get them to shrink evenly. They will, without fail, collapse in one just one side, with the end result being a cardioid shape, and the place on the plate that initiates that is ALWAYS the same spot (12 o'clock) on the dish. I feel like there's a structural thing that has to do with the way the plastic was originally poured/injected, or something, but it may just be that it being not a flat sheet introduces just uneven shrinking that's not repairable... Thoughts?
Here's an image of the shrinkage. I experimented with different times, flipping them over, trying to flatten them like a pancake... The smaller one with the bubles was flat side down, left in at high temperature, and the larger one was done flat side up, which means that inhibiting the natural curling actually prevented shrinkage. Trying to prevent the natural 12 o'clock divid that occurs first doesn't work. Here's an image. I think the natural heart shape has some interesting implications for art, but I would mostly like to have a mineaturized petri dish