Peltier Device Puns

Instead of relying only on the Peltier device, what if one was used to cool a conventional watercooled setup ?

Since the loop is already capable of handling the load, would cooling the water be a reliable way to generally lower your temperatures ?

Ever since seeing part 1 and 2 I just can't get it out of my head.

Hey. An absolute beginner here. I would love to get into electronics and start that by controlling peltier device using a thermistor. I would like to know what typo of project I could look into as an example to understand what is needed? Is this considered an advanced or really basic project? Maybe I can achieve that using arduino?

Let's call it a morbid curiosity.

Why don't you put the cold side of one to the hot of another, so the other has a even colder side. You could repeat that with a lot of them and make the top one super cold. You could use it for your particle detector.

Hello, just want to ask about my little project. So I have a peltier then a heat sink with 2 fans. Idk if I should add like a usb module or a modulator or an adapter of some sort, cause what I did is just connect all of the positives and negatives from the fan and peltier. Then put them all together. Then jam it straight to a power outlet. Its working fine. But I feel that the fans are just kinda not going full speed. Idk if its because they are sharing the same voltage/current because they are wired together or what. Basically I just wan to know how to get maximum performance out of both. Thanks in advanced.

I'm a mechanical engineer and was torn between r/engineers and r/askengineers per the flowchart so I'll try here first. My apologies if I missed the mark!

Someone please verify my logic here:

I have 2 identical Peltier devices (TEC) and two completely independent power supplies for them. Assuming the end goal is lowest cold side temperature, is it better to set them up in series/parallel or doesn’t it matter?

Since they each have a dedicated power supply, I’m talking about mechanically, not electrically. Do I stack them or mount them side by side on a common cold plate?

My line of thinking is that a stacked (series) arrangement allows a greater “delta T” across the junction. A parallel arrangement would have more contact area, but I’m not concerned with transient response at all, just steady-state cold temperature.

Another line of thinking is that each TEC is simply an amount of heat transfer, in Watts. So if you have 2 of them in each scenario, you have the same number of Watts being extracted from the cold plate. In this line of reasoning it seems like it wouldn’t matter how I arranged them?

Any input would be appreciated. You’d think I could solve this with simple heat transfer equations but I’m apparently off my game today…

I think my question is a general one that wouldn’t need specifics, but just in case I’m mistaken, my TEC’s are TEC1-12706 and my power supplies are good for 12V and 5A each.

Thanks!

Hi,

I'm working on a design for a small fridge for a few cans of beers (you might have seen another post about sizing a heat exchanger).

As I am having a hard time finding a custom sized cross-flow heat exchanger for my cold glycol, I am starting to consider Thermo Electric Cooler devices (Peltiers). I was talking to a co-worker about this and he was highly against using TEC's because he said they are only relative coolers. So for example, they can only cool 20 degrees difference. So if the weather is super hot I can only cool my drinks to weather temperature - 20 degrees.

To me it didnt make much sense how the peltier would work this way, is there any math or studies that show this? (he pointed me to the igloo TEC cooler that they sell online that only cools 20 degrees below weather temperature, but I think thats a design issue not a peltier technicality).

So I haven't really had any experience with circuits, although I will have some (hopefully) after next semester, but that isn't very useful to me right now. Say I wanted to power 12 peltier pads (12 volt, 4.3-4.6 Amp) in parallel. I believe this would mean that I would have to put 12 volts in at 12 times 4.3-4.6 amps. I realize this is probably not the way to power them, as I can't find an adjustable power supply that is remotely close to being able to deliver 51.6 amps. I was wondering what the correct way to go about doing this is. Thank you for your time, your help is much appreciated.

Also if someone can clear this up for me it would be great. I've read that 12 volts will not be enough to penetrate dry human skin, and that working with low voltage is relatively safe (i.e. No serious injury, I'm fine with minor burns) as long as there is only dry skin contact and I don't have fluids around (and I don't do anything terribly stupid like touching the wires with my tongue). Is this true or false? I'll default to assuming it is false until I know otherwise because I'm not very keen on earning a Darwin award.

The 12 peltier coolers are for a small cloud chamber.

This is possible, right? I presume the battery would spend more charge than it gains, but this system should extend how long I can run the blower (if there's a power outage). Do you have an idea how long it would extend the run time?
I think Peltier devices are more formally known as Thermoelectric generators (TEGs). I like diy but I'd rather buy one - I could not find any for sale, only instructions for making them. Do you know where to buy one?

So I was inspired by the work at Tesla with solar shingles for the roof, and it got me to thinking: could Peltier devices placed within shingles have a similar result?

For those of you who haven't heard of these devices, they're actually not a new tech. Imagine a device that would allow you to create energy from temperature differences. We've all seen that cool video of a Sterling engine placed on top of a coffee mug to produce rotational energy, but what if we could use a similar idea to directly produce electricity.

So that's what a Peltier device does, why would it work on a roof? My thought (and I haven't even started on this, just throwing around ideas) is that black shingles or dark shingles absorb sunlight and are generally hotter than the surrounding areas. Shingles have two sides: the side facing outside and the side facing inside. The device would create energy based on the temperate differences between outside and inside, which can vary greatly depending on where you live.

Now, I'm new to these devices and I hear they don't have great tolerances, nor do they output a lot per cell, so I thought about shingles. If you have hundreds of shingles, you could potentially create a lot of energy passively.

I'm no engineer, so I wanted to reach out to someone with any knowledge of these things to find out if these are in fact viable options. I would like to get a prototype up (maybe build a doghouse or something and see if it can heat a small bed or something), but I wanted to know if this kind of thing has been tried before and if anyone has any input on such an idea.

I am struggling to find the relevant equations.

I am building a Temperature Controller with a Peltier device. The output of the Controller is 10A/220V AC. The input options for the Peltier device are 6.0A/14.5V, 4.5A/11.5V, 3.0A/7.5V, or 1.5A/3.75V. What would be the best method for going from the Temperature Controller's output to the correct input for the Peltier Device?

Components I have easy access to: Arduino Uno Capacitors Diodes Resistors

I can obtain additional parts without much trouble, just have to know what to get.

Data sheets for the Controller and Peltier Device can be found at

http://hackerstore.nl/PDFs/TEC1-12706.pdf http://www.szmeihang.com/uploadfile/201401/20140116231623558.pdf

Hello everyone, I’m looking to use a Peltier Device (thermoelectric cooler) as a generator to power a wireless sensor. Would a heat sink alone be efficient enough to sustain a thermal gradient (ie able to keep one side of the device cool enough to avoid it reaching an equilibrium)? Would I need a heat sink + fan?

I read about something like this years ago, but cannot a commercial or DIY device now. This guy mentions the idea, but doesn't explore it. The idea is a stand-alone unit that provides drip irrigation where it is located.

I'm building myself a custom mini fridge (just something to chill up to 8 cans at my desk), and I'm not sure how I power my peltier devices properly. I have two:
Model: TEC1-12706.
Size: 40mm x 40mm x 3.6mm
Working current: 4.3-4.6 A (rated 12v); Imax: 6A.
Rated voltage: DC12V (Vmax: 15 v starting current 5.8 A).
Operates Temperature: -30C to 70C.
Refrigeration power: Qcmax 50-60 w.

I'm a computer programmer, and I've played with minor electronics (installed alarms), but I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to powering things like this that don't just plug into a wall. Just for fun I used an iPad 15W charger, cut an old USB cord and powered up the device for testing (with it sitting between heatsinks). What I'm interested in, is powering two of these via one ac adapter, and how I'd wire them together (and in series or parallel or anything else I'd need to know). Also, I assume that I'd want to use two to chill the fridge down for the start, but for keeping it at a low level, only using one might be a little greener. If thats the case, would it be doable to have a two switches, one for each peltier and still use only one ac adapter?

Hi I'm doing a project for school. We're we are trying to power a motor with peltier devices.

A in our tests we got about 1 volt and .3 amps from one. We need 2 volts at .5 amps to power or motor. We have 16 devices. So we thought if we put two pairs of 8 devices in parallel, in series. But that wasn't able to even turn the motor.

I've briefly read online that they work like pn junction diodes. In some experiments we found the voltage scales like expected but the amperage dosn't.

One idea we had was to string them in series get about 16 volts and .3 amps. Then use a buck converter to get the amps to where we need.

Would this work?

Also would having too much current blow the motor?

In the world of amateur astronomy, its important to get good performance out of CCDs at low light conditions*. That's hard though because of quantum mechanics. Similar issues apply to most solid state devices including, I would expect SDRs.

Analog devices in particular have noise. (and digital circuits radiate it too)

Cooling an SDR, taking care not to allow humid air into the electrical connections or cooled area (maybe air seal it shut in a very dry environment, put it in multiple layers of plastic bags, or???) Or even just leaving the case open and cooling it with a fan.. might help receive weak signals.

*Unless you are using your [device] as a random number generator, that is.

I'm considering using a Peltier device in a device I'm building for cooling a liquid and I have no idea how the Peltier device cools.

This is the device I am using http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UQQ3Q2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

Will this ( http://www.amazon.com/eFreesia-Adapter-Monitor-Compatible-Devices/dp/B00JFCNHMC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412432740&sr=8-1&keywords=8a+12v+power+supply ) work to power the device? I have looked everywhere for basic instructions that a novice could follow but I haven't found any this far. If this power device doesn't work could you link me one on amazon that would work?

Also, I would really like to get into electronics and acquire a basic under standing of how they work, or at least enough to do my own little projects without burning anything down. What is the best way to learn about electronics? (book, youtube series, website, etc.)

I am very new to electronics and I am currently trying to build a water cooler ( seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfmyOHHoprw )

People recommended I get a PC power supply to power my peltier device ( http://www.amazon.com/TEC1-12706-Thermoelectric-Peltier-Cooler-Volt/dp/B002UQQ3Q2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1443855359&sr=1-3&keywords=peltier )

So went down to Frys and picked up a PC power supply seen here ( http://www.frys.com/product/4659848?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG ) but I am totally lost on how to connect a peltier device and the heat sink to this. I found one DIY thing that was kinda close but it said it was dangerous to do if you are a novice so I figured id come here and see if anyone can point me down the correct path or tell me I am in way over my head.

Edit: Is this basically what I need to do? If not can someone find a video to point me in the right direction?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4uRnID7G_Q

Also. I have 4 other fans plus some led strips, since this power supply is 300w and is way more than I need can I also connect the other fans and led strips to it?

Wondering if these exist, been thinking they would be perfect for a project, if they're available commercially anywhere.