Jatco Puns

Just wondering how the new 2020/2021 Foresters will hold up and if any improvements are in these models years over previous years..

I saw that the new 9 speed auto for the new Z is Mercedes derived JATCO unit, not their original design. This makes me wonder, since both Nissan and Mercedes have almost exclusively used odd numbered speed auto transmission for rear drive set-up (JATCO 5 and 7 speed, 5 and 7G tronic respectively) did one company supplies or supplied the other company's transmission previously as well? I assume since 5 and 7 speed were pure JATCO, did JATCO provide the transmission to Mercedes before but this time the role has switched?

Or is the previous 5 and 7 speed auto usage from both just pure coincidence and this is the first time these two are working sort of together in the transmission?

Hi all I always thought that the cvt in my 2015 crosstrek was a Nissan jatco and now I see Mr. Subaru says it is a all in house Subaru transmission. Which makes me feel a bit better.

I have 55k with no problems on mine, and I'm thinking about having the dealer change the fluid even though it's a "lifetime fluid". Anyone do the change at the dealer? How did it go since?

https://youtu.be/ja86PRHS2sg

https://www.jatco.co.jp/wp-jatco/wp-content/themes/JATCO/assets/document/jatco_products_e.pdf

From jatco's website, they don't seem to make any transmissions for AWD vehicles.
Could it be that mitsubishi just uses the jatco transmission meant for FWD?

Hi all. I recently bought a 1992 Mazda Miata. While I like the car, I find it just has too much road feel. I can feel every single stone on the asphalt and it takes a lot of work to change gears using the manual transmission. I don’t want to put in that much effort to drive my car; manuals are truly an outdated technology. I want to be isolated from the road.

I’ve been doing my research, and I’m thinking I swap out the manual for one of those modern “CVT” transmissions. I’ve heard they’re really smooth and reliable, which is what a car enthusiast like myself really wants. The one I’m looking at is coming out of a wrecked 2017 Nissan Versa, so it is a good deal from a good auto maker. What do you think? Is this a good idea? I can’t wait to rip that damn manual out of my Miata!

My wife, who is also a car enthusiast (she likes JDM too...drives a Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross) thinks we should upgrade the suspension next. Would the suspension from a Town Car be a good fit?

Thanks for your help!

Up for sale is this beautiful 5/8 Jatco straightrazor, made in Solingen, Germany. Although I don't believe this razor to be all that old, maybe 20-30 yrs, It's in brand new condition. Never been honed and never been used. Beautiful gold wash on the blade face.

It is not shave ready but I can hone it for you free of charge if you’d like, just let me know.

Asking $165 USD via Paypal which includes shipping to North America.

Overseas will be more and I can figure out proper shipping to your location. I'm located in Canada.

Please don't be afraid to ask any questions or for more pictures.

https://imgur.com/a/gzdvcD7

https://np.reddit.com/r/cars/comments/h9fyva/2021_nissan_rogue_debut_first_look/

The GM/JATCO campus really needs no introduction. With it being up for sale and all but a handful of structures demolished, what is most likely to be built upon the property? Personally, I could see the JATCO Lot being used for primarily housing, as it does not have heavy metal/lye/lead Problems that the GM lot does. It could even be used for a concert venue/ University of Wisconsin at rock County extension/ New Fairground. However, I’m not as sure of what might happen to GM. The labor landscape is not the same as it was 20 years ago, so it might be challenging to get more heavy industry there. Personally, I could unfortunately see it being used For storage facilities, very low scale industry, or god forbid a park... As much as I like Janesville’s parks, It would be a shame to see Janesville’s former economic powerhouse become just another park. I just hope something happens fast, because these two lots take up an absurd amount of property and could definitely be a fast track to getting Janesville a proud city again

I own a 2002 Golf PD130 with the 09A trans. This is my first auto car (live in the UK) in ten years of driving, including commercial driving.

In my limited knowledge, TC lockup usually happens in top gear. This transmission appears to lock the TC when in third gear and keeps it locked through fourth and fifth. I originally thought the trans was slipping on the 2-3 shift which is a known issue with these transmissions. I now think it's just normal TC action until lockup.

Is TC lockup at like 25-30mph in third gear normal on these transmissions?

Another quick question - when cold it shifts fine. When warm the TC lock up in third is uncomfortably harsh. I'm doing a fluid change this weekend (I have VagCom so no problems doing it "properly" by monitoring fluid temps) but I wondered if that harshness during lockup was a symptom of something else.

Thanks in advance. Autos are a complete mystery to me.

Hello,

I know that Nissan CVTs fall apart really quickly, but since there are so many failures, are there any common mechanisms of failure (ex. leaks, belts snapping, etc), or are they super varied?

Also, I've heard that cars with more powerful engines (Maxima, V6 Altima) have fewer CVT failures. Is this true?

Just wondering.

So I found out I can change a Sentra transmission with a rouge and Altima. Kind of scary because the weight difference in the cars. am I wrong?? And Does each different manufacture have a more reliable unit or is it all the same components inside? i seen more problems with the same transmission in dodge caliber

https://preview.redd.it/fzubrjnpfmu51.png?width=717&format=png&auto=webp&s=424780554c4bc2284bd098d1bf7d54153f11a098

So, my car has 70k miles on it. It's an 07 Caliber with the cvt in it. I'm debating on dropping my trans and fixing it. I need some advice though.

When the trans gets hot/warm, the belt slips. I'm pretty sure this is due to the pressure valve being stuck open or just worn out. It's common on these trans. Here are my questions.

1. Is it possible to see the damage done to the pulleys and belt without taking them off the back housing? (i don't wan to buy a 180$ TJ-1 Puller if i don't have to)
2. If i do fix it, should i put an aftermarket trans cooler on it? (it has a combined trans cooler/ac condenser)
3. Which valve replacement should i go with? There is a oversize valve kit with a bore to increase side loading. ( https://cobratransmission.com/JF011E-JF015E-Pump-Valve-33510N01). Or should i go with the transgo? ( https://cobratransmission.com/JF011E-TranGo-Flow-Control-Valve-Repair )
4. I should probably take apart the valve body and make sure there isn't debris in there right?

Any other ideas/tips would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks

UPDATE: It's been fixed! It was a bad solenoid, a full swap has it shifting smoothly. Thanks to everyone who replied and special thanks to /u/mojank for their above and beyond help!

Now to sort out the P0411 secondary air code I gave myself. Probably crunched one of the brittle air hoses zip tying the wiring out of the way.

Should be easy to find: I can clearly hear it and I have some left over unused tubing from my rigged funnel ATF filling extension I can use like a stethoscope if it's not obvious when I get in there.

Hello,

I have a 2003 VW Jetta with a 09a transmission, also known as a Jatco JF506e. My N283 valve (regulates the ATF oil pressure of brakes B2 and B3, maximum main oil pressure is applied to the brakes when it fails, resulting in harsh gearshifts) is either stuck open or shorted to plus. Symptoms started occurring about a month ago with sudden onset; it went directly from shifting fine to feels like I'm getting rear ended all the time. No gradual sticking.

So far, I've:

• Confirmed that the harness wiring is continuous from TCM to transmission with no cross shorts between pins at either end.
• Changed the lifetime (of the warranty) ATF, following the level check procedure between 35 and 45 C.
• Cleared codes and run adaptation for transmission and engine via VCDS/Vag-com.

The new ATF has been in for a day with a normal commute, about 1.5 hours of driving. No change in symptoms, still shifting like a bucking bronco. Check engine light stayed off for first drive, but was back immediately when turning car on at start of second drive, with a N283 code.

I'd like to be done with the issue, but at this point, I'm not sure if I have a stuck valve or a shorted solenoid. I'd like to not buy a solenoid and then a valve body and be stuck taking apart the front of my car twice, including coolant and ATF drains.

Questions

• It is possible to distinguish a stuck valve from a shorted valve without opening the transmission case, such as with a multimeter via the harness?
• Is fresh ATF likely to dislodge a stuck valve? About how long does it take to work?
• Any additives worth a damn for unsticking a valve? Lucas? Seafoam? Snake oil? If so, how long should I wait before giving up and going to a part replacement?
• Who are reputable (re)manufacturers for non-Mazda spec 09a Jatco JF506e solenoids and valve bodies? (VW and Land Rover share valve bodies, Mazda does not)
• If I have to crack it open, use a pre-made gasket (cork

Hi Everyone, Decided I'd ask here as transmissions are one thing I don't know too much about.

I have a 1987 vehicle with an RB30 straight six, automatic transmission Jatco 4N71B. Its done just over 133,000km in its entire life, and I've spent a small fortune to keep it running (and intend to keep doing so!)

Recently the transmission developed a slip and I took it to my local mechanic for a service. In servicing it he discovered the magnets were missing from the transmission pan, causing metal shavings to go up through the valve body and generally make a mess of things. As a result two of the four clutch packs (or solenoids?) have had to be replaced so far, and the valve body is being carefully soaked and cleaned out.

Looking back through the servicing history (and I have it going back to purchase in 1987) it would appear the only time the transmission was serviced (that I have a record of) was in 2011, when the filter was replaced. At that point the vehicle had maybe done 100,000 or 110,000km, so it was likely done as part of the major servicing schedule.

In the six years since the service I've generally been doing short distance drives, so it hasn't been a huge distance travelled without the magnets in place, however I'm now wondering just how much damage having the metal dust going around will have likely done to the rest of the transmission. Given the scarcity of original parts for 30 year old vehicles now, I'm planning in advance for any future failures, which includes acquiring various spares I might need down the track.

Does anyone have any suggestions for what to look out for in the future for that sort of damage, or any suggestions on future servicing to ensure everything keeps running well?

My family and I have been looking to buy a car to replace our 2011 XUV 500, with safety, comfort, and reliability as priorities. Currently looking at large 5-seater SUVs or 7-seaters, since we're a family of 5 with 3 dogs. Delhi, so unfortunately that rules out Diesels since we're looking to keep the car for 15 years. So 30L for a Petrol AT SUV/MPV? Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a car that meets all our requirements...

Initially we were just going to get the Petrol Innova Crysta, but the higher variants don't have a bench seat in the 2nd row, which is unusable for our 5 people plus 3 dogs trips. Not sure if we're okay with a lower variant with the bench seat, especially with only 2 airbags.

We were also considering an MG ZS EV 2022, but since it's just been comfirmed to get the smaller 51 kw/h battery and not the long-range 72 kw/h, we dropped the idea. Not too keen on the petrol ZS, we were willing to compromise on size for an EV but not for a gas car. The Hector and Hector Plus Automatic only have CVTs, and if MG is still using Jatco transmissions like they did when they were still MG Rover Group of Britain, then those are awful.

Same reason for ignoring the Renault Duster and the Nissan Kicks - Jatco CVT transmissions. Amazingly unreliable.

The XUV700 looked great but waiting periods for the higher models run into the middle of 2023, which sucks haha, can't consider that. We also didn't book it on Day 1 because of reliability concerns with all the high tech infotainment stuff - which appear to be totally valid.

Volkswagen Tiguan is overpriced at launch IMO and the suspension is too stiff, making us unwilling to stretch our budget even if discounts roll in next year. It actually makes potholes feel worse than they are.

Serious reliability concerns about the Jeep Compass Petrol, I wouldn't trust FCA to make a shoebox, let alone a 7 speed DCT, so we're VERY reluctant there.

That leaves the Korean cars - Creta/Seltos/Alcazar/Carens. They're all based off the Hyundai K2 platform which didn't do too well in crash tests, and I have the same reliability concerns with their DCT transmissions. Still considering the Alcazar because the 2.0 Petrol AT comes with a somewhat reliable torque converter automatic, but the platform's low safety is worrying.

Dropped the idea of the current Hyundai Tucson aft

Do your worst!

For context I'm a Refuse Driver (Garbage man) & today I was on food waste. After I'd tipped I was checking the wagon for any defects when I spotted a lone pea balanced on the lifts.

I said "hey look, an escaPEA"

No one near me but it didn't half make me laugh for a good hour or so!

Edit: I can't believe how much this has blown up. Thank you everyone I've had a blast reading through the replies 😂

It really does, I swear!

They’re on standbi

Pilot on me!!