They use hydrated lime to cold pasteurize straw for oyster growing.... Why can't I use that water in my unicorn bags with Masters mix? And skip steam pasteurization.
I don't have hydrated lime to pasteurize hay for substrate. But I have quick lime and wanted to know if I can use it and if any process should be different. Both quick lime and hydrated lime are alkaline so wouldn't it work? Thanks!
I have 7 50lbs bags of hydrated lime in my crawl space. Can I just throw them out with my household trash or is it hazardous? Keep seeing mixed opinions online.
Trying to limewash my brick home to achieve a white, rustic brick exterior, and can't seem to find "hydrated lime" anywhere, much less "hydrated lime type s," which is apparently the recommended product. Got any tips?
Mixing co co coir and hydrated lime for substrate . Will that lower the acidity too much for mushrooms to grow?
Pressure cooked substrate for 15 min at 15psi then let it cool down, so it for sure was pasteurized- but seems like I’m getting contam
As written in the title, I would like to know which store has it. It is generally used for nixtamalization of corn generally in South American cuisine.
I'm trying to grow mushrooms in a straw bed this upcoming season. If anyone knows where to get wheat/oat straw as well as the hydrated lime without having to buy massive bales that won't fit in my car, that would be appreciated.
Hi. I was planning on experimenting with repointing a section of wall in my old stone basement that is flaking and dropping mortar. Everyone says to use a lime mortar and to avoid any portland cement mixes.
The only premixed Lime Mortar stuff I can find is online is Hydraulic Lime Mortar, but that it is a lot more expensive per bag than the cement mixes.
So I wanted to see if I could make my own Lime Mortar mix, but I don't know what the ingredients are or how many parts of each to mix. I also read it takes a couple days to actually prepare the mix for pointing. But not sure.
Quickrete sells bags of Hydrate Lime Type S at my local store for about $10 a bag, but I don't know if that's the right stuff to use or not. I'm also not sure if it has cement in it or not. The bag says it's compoased of cement, but the website descriptions say it CAN be blended with cement. Not sure if it's already got cement in it or not?
I can't find any other type of masonry Hydraulic Lime products in my local stores and I'm skeptical of having stuff delivered that doesn't wind up getting hard in delivery due to humidity getting inside the bag.
Not sure what to get that's not really expensive that I could mix myself.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
My first grow looked like it was going to be amazing….. until both my tubs got the dreaded Trich a few days after introducing FAE. This got me onto a lot of research for how I’d approach my next grow, and I have mainly found vague information about ‘hydrated lime’ as the potential solution. I would like to hear peoples’ varied experiences and opinions about the best way to approach this method. My questions are:
- What pH have you found to be the most successful for both trich reduction & benefit to mushroom growth? I have seen answers range all the way from 8 - 11. ((My current assumption is about 9))
- In my experience, the trich grew near the bottom of the tub as well as the top. Is there benefit to pH treating the entire substrate mix (100% coir), or JUST the casing layer? ((My current assumption is treating the entire substrate, and just putting on a very thin casing layer of the same stuff))
- Previously, my method was simply adding boiling water to the coir inside a bucket, and putting the lid on overnight. However, I have read about potential safety issues of adding hydrated lime to hot water. Can I pasteurise with cold water, at what stage should the hydrated lime be added, and when should I be using the pH strip to test? ((My current assumption is using cold distilled water, mixing in approximately 2g hydrated lime per litre of water, testing the pH to get it around 9, adding it to the coir and mixing thoroughly, and testing the pH again to confirm it’s right before leaving overnight))
Any science, opinions or anecdotal experiences welcome & appreciated!
pH strips I bought: https://www.amazon.com.au/VANSFUL-Test-Strips-Kit-Pack/dp/B07SKM7HZF
Sources I learned from:
https://www.reddit.com/r/shrooms/comments/ibkvw6/first_flush_results_on_my_no/
https://learn.freshcap.com/growing/lime-pasteurization/
[https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/k2y7aw/daytrippers_trip_tip_recipe_to_make_a_ph_adjusted/](https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/k2y7aw/daytrippers_trip_tip_recipe_to_make_a_ph_adj
... keep reading on reddit ➡I’ve heard that adding hydrated lime to your bulk substrate can make it more contam resistant but haven’t been able to figure out how much to add. This was going to be my recipe: 650g Coir, 8 cups verm, 1 cup gypsum, and 18 cups distilled water. Anyone have any advice on adding lime/how much to add?
I just stared researching about growing mushrooms and found something about hydrated lime. I’m wondering what it’s used for, is it worth getting, is it successful for growth, and some techniques that it’s used for.
Hi everyone,
I filled a 8’x4’ raised bed (about 1.5 feet deep) with the following:
1/3 Peat moss 1/3 finished compost 1/3 vermiculite
And I realized shortly after that the canadian sphagum peat moss brand I used (Premier) has a pH of 4. Knew it was acidic, but damn!
So now I’m thinking I’ll have to lime the piss out of it to raise it ~2 points. I don’t have any soil pH tests (and I’m finding that the only trustable test is in a lab or with the $200 pH testers).
I got a 5 pound bag of hydrated lime and figured this should be more than enough.. Hopefully within 1-2 months it’ll be in that sweet spot?
Would love any and all insight if folks have experience with this - Looking to plant tomatoes throughout this bed (and want to avoid the dreaded blossom end rot!)
Thanks!
I live in Canada. Mail order stuff is fine. Some ideas for local places to look would be nice too, even if it’s not specific stores. Looking to pasteurize straw.
I have an old 15,000 litre (3000 gals) concrete water tank which collects rainwater. There are some cracks in the wall. Previously the cracks have been sealed by painting Sika products on the inside wall, plus trying a bitumen paint, plus plumbers tape.
These have worked for 20 years but now the entire winter's rain fall has leaked out, through a crack where the wall joins the base. A glassful a minute but that was enough.
I did read that putting a hydrated lime slurry around the inside would be an effective long term fix.
The logic is that cement when bound in concrete will slowly dissolve when exposed to water. The cement will seep into a crack and once there it binds to any sand thus sealing it.
The hydrated lime is an active ingredient in cement so the wash adds new binding chemicals to be absorbed by the concrete. It is used by people to add to standard cements - beyond me though.
Any thoughts?
Thinking it would be a good idea to try since it achieves the same purpose that is increasing the ph of the substrate
+ its easier to get hold of
Any thoughts? ( for Oysters obviously )
I cant see any mention of it so thinking there may be a reason its not used? Any advice would be great :)
