I had my house repainted almost 2 years ago and the contractor used a paint supply store's Semi-Gloss Interior Alkyd paint for the interior wood trim and doors (custom color matched). I had some shoe mold added to a room recently and wanted to match the paint for it and touch up some other areas. I went to pick up a gallon from the same supply house but they didn’t have any in stock in town and didn’t know when they’d be getting any in. I've checked back a couple of times over the last few weeks but still no inventory.
What options do I have to match the paint color to existing? The guy at the desk didn’t sound like he had much experience to point me in the right direction.
https://preview.redd.it/vshymfhlhpc81.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dfcf2f0e1003fc9b6a7fc96813ec570b55ca10b0
Hello everyone,
We have, unfortunately due to our ignorance, varnished the wooden floor in one of our rooms with alkyd resin based varnish. We were surprised to learn that VOC vapor can take, depending on where you read about it and how well you ventilate, anywhere between 1-6 months.
I thought about coating that varnish with a water-based one to seal off the vapor / stop the evaporation. (I know that water-based varnish still has VOCs but it's a lot lower). It's been a week so the alkyd resin varnish is properly dry.
Would that work? Thoughts?
I know that generally you want 2+ coats of finish coat when painting; however, because the sprayer lays down paint pretty thick, I'm wondering if one is sufficient. The surface looks great and I don't see any primer through the paint
I am debating on using alkyd paint for two exterior doors that I'll soon be purchasing. The cursory glance that I've given alkyd paint seems to indicate this would be a good application for it as it's more durable and will hold its sheen longer.
Has anyone else done this? What was your experience like?
I built a large desk, 38x85” and primed it. Base will be a gloss white nothing special. The top though I’d like a durable finish because my wife and will be using it for work.
I can’t decide from milk paint by General Finishes, Pro industrial enamel from Sherwin-Williams, Benjamin Moore pro classic. Probably a few others.
I Have several gallons of water-based poly but applying it to a table top I don’t see myself doing that without getting roller marks.
I have a table top for a desk that’s about 38” x 85”. I’d like to paint it a dark navy style blue.
Would an alkyd enamel from Behr or other brand work?
Rolling would be preferred too.
There's a method for smoothing 3D paints with rattle cans of Rustoleum for plastic and spray polyurethane. The Rustoleum in question is an alkyd paint thinned with acetone. Rustoleum sells these in cans like any other paint, so I was wondering if it was possible to do thin the paint and spray with an airbrush? I wasn't sure if it was the same as thinning enamels with enamel thinner, chemically speaking, or if it'd be a surefire way to melt O-rings.
I am applying Water-Based Alkyd Enamel for the first time ever. Dutch Boy brand if that matters. I am edging with a thick expensive Wooster brush, and then rolling with one of those 1/4in foam rollers. I can see "layers" in the paint where the roller overlaps sections. Anyone have any tips? I am moving as quickly as I can.
The 1/4in foam roller is leaving quite a bit of orange peel already, so I hate to upgrade to a 3/8in as I am afraid it would get worse. I have a Graco 360 VSP sprayer, but after two failed coats I gave up trying with it (LOTS of runs). At $50/gallon I can only experiment so much. If anyone has tips to that, a sprayed finish would look much better.
Thanks for any tips or help!
We painted out stairs railing with Cabinet Coat from insl-x. Whenever the kids come downstairs with jackets on the little metal buttons leave what looks like a pencil mark... ALLLLL the way down the railing.. And it seems hard to clean off.
Is this just something with waterborne alkyd paint? Frustrating.
The "white" trim in my bathroom has yellowed significantly after only 3 years of construction and is especially obvious after I repainted the white ceiling (with latex ceiling paint). After some research, I found that it has something to do with alkyd particles oxidizing in dark rooms. The trim in my entire house is painted in the same stuff but is only visibly yellowed in two of the bathrooms that don't have windows.
(The trim is glossy and I found a can of alkyd paint so that's how I know what it is.)
My question is...what is the best way to repaint the trim with latex over the existing alkyd? Sand, prime, and two coats? What kind of primer?
