Stall torque Puns

I tried bringing it to shops but the places I go to pretty much told me to go fuck myself , does anyone have an idea what could be happening to my car and does anyone know a place near Orlando to fix my issue

I am try to determine the stall torque of this motor Mabuchi Motor.

The info on the site doesn’t state stall or start torque so can I use the two data points they do provide to extrapolate to a stall torque? Or is the relations between speed and not linear? Thanks for your help, I’m new at this and trying to stumble my way through a project to get my hands dirty.

Cars with a high stall speed torque converter have a sudden burst of power to the rear tires when the engine revs beyond a certain point. Rev it up, delayed reaction and then power to the tires.

Don't know if this belongs here or not, but this sub seemed like a great place to start. I've been studying torque converters to increase my knowledge about something I realized I really don't know that much about. This article has been most helpful but has left one question unanswered: are torque converter ratings given for vehicles in stock form? If someone upgrades their brakes, then that would drastically change the stall speed of the converter because the brakes will be able to handle more torque before braking free. If this question doesn't make sense, please forgive me since I'm still learning a lot. It just dawned upon me recently that I've built engines and intimately know many systems on vehicles, but I don't have a firm understanding on the tuning and performance of torque converters, I just know the fundamental concept of fluid couplings and converters. TIA

If I have a particular max torque I’m shooting for, how much higher should I target a servo / stepper motor’s stall torque?

When I was a kid, I saw Monster 900 on the cover of some motorcycle enthusiast magazine and it was love at first sight. The big monster has been my dreambike since I realized I wanted a motorcycle, and about a week ago I took the first step towards making that dream a reality

I just got my hands on a project bike, but I may have bitten off more than I can chew. It has a fair share of problems (been scouring the web to try and diagnose the issue, but so far I haven't had much luck pinpointing it) -

[PICTURES HERE] (https://imgur.com/a/xPhuQbl)

First, the good - Bike is almost immaculate cosmetically Lowish mileage (13k) Electrical seems fine at first glance, cable routing looks good, no DIY jank as far as I can tell New tires (nice)

From the mouth of the previous owner (discussing the previous previous owner) the fuel line blew, unsure of whether it was a clog or what - the guy pulled the fuel filter and completely bypassed it which sets off all sorts of red flags in my book.

He also swapped out stock for K&N air filter and sloppily cut the lid of the airbox down. 224915

Bike has some sort of aftermarket carbon exhaust, not sure what the brand is as they all look fairly similar. The bike itself has some unfortunate (maybe minor, maybe major) issues that prevent it from getting on the road

SYMPTOMS

• Low idle, doesn't take throttle well

• Low compression (makes 125-118, spec is 131-160)

• Inconsistent idle (it jumps from 1k - 1.5k - 1k)

• Backfiring out of front end, shop said it seemed to be running fairly lean

• Significantly decreased torque (can't even really roll off before bike stalls)

The previous owner took it to a shop before I got the bike from him, and from the report (which I've attached) 224919

Fuel pressure 48-52psi at all times, lines are routed properly, no kinks Battery voltage low (I've connected it to a conditioner) Swapped out whatever was in tank for 91 octane Backfires into the intake Low idle, does not take throttle well Plugs were fouled (they didn't list how), swapped 118v 124a Tightened belts to spec LEAKDOWN TEST - GOOD (more on this later) Low compression (makes 125-118, spec is 131-160) "Vehicle needs engine work - tear down before quoting"

Several users here had almost identical symptoms, but they never posted resolutions to the problem. I've found suggestions, but as I'm working with a limited repair budget I'd like to make sure everything is done properly/with consideration the first time. I live i

Hi, so I posted earlier about my brakes but I think the issue is more than that. I have an 04 Dodge neon sxt stick shift. Yesterday it started doing this thing where it would barely move, i have to Rev up to like 4000 and hold it there to move and it takes forever to build speed.

I just noticed that the car no longer stalls when you release the clutch fully while in gear and not moving. I thought the issue was the brakes but now I'm thinking it's more than that. Any ideas? Thank you!

If it helps: reverse seems to work a lot better than forwards, it doesn't take as long to build speed.

Hi Everyone,

I'm in charge on tearing down last years robot and analyzing why it failed. I've hit a roadblock of finding our motor's stall torque.

It's a Racerstar 5065 BRH5065 140KV 6-12S Brushless

Does anyone here have experience finding torque stall with this particular motor?

quick question

is there a way to estimate the stall torque of a starter motor '? calculations without testing it !

I have a pulley system where a human pulls on one side against the DC motor. Motor is there to cause resistance but be revolved against the direction of its electromagnetic force. My questions are:

1. Does this mean the motor is constantly drawing approx. stall torque current (due to low rpm) so I don't need a current measuring feedback?

2. Will this damage the motor?

3. Can I control torque with PWM

I was just playing some simulator battle in my g6 and k4, and felt like I had a much harder time maneuvering at very low speed ( <200 kph ias) than normal. At this speed the engine torque starts to roll the plane hard and it's quite easy to spin out, but I'm normally able to maneuver at this speed even while using wep by using flaps, rudder and aeileron to counter the rolling and gentle pulling to avoid spinning out. I often fly like this as my in play style of 109s I often utilize my superior climbrate to out climb an enemy chasing me, and then the turn around and dive on them while both of us are at very low speeds.

I tried doing this today, but the rolling caused by the engine torque felt a lot stronger than normal, and even with full aeileron and rudder combatting the roll I was unable to keep myself from inverting and I ended up spinning for a few seconds, losing my small altitude advantage and placing the enemy on my tail.

It could be that I haven't flown 109s as frequently as I normally do in the last few days, I also had more difficulty landing shots with my 30mm which might indicate this, but I'm curious if anyone else had a similar experience to me.

Not sure why I left the message of this post blank.

Anyway an update: I loosened the chain by backing off the tension I previously applied with my custom engine positioning bolt. Immediately the rear wheel turns easily by hand now and the engine will idle. A bit of metallic noise happening when revving up to engage the clutch- not sure if I damaged something there or if the noise is normal. Will investigate more later.

In all honesty, I don't need this for a quadcopter project, so it's a bit of an off-topic, but I though this was the best reddit to ask, since I'm sure many users here have deep understanding of brushless motors.

Those motors are 28mm in outside diameter, have 90 mOhms of resistance, 1000kv and weigh around 50grams. Any (very rough) guesses on the maximum torque in Nm(or any other unit, no problems) for:

1: stall torque

2: torque at 1000kv

The motor will run for short periods of time (seconds), so heating is a non-issue I guess and if needed I can push the current.

I'll need about 0.1-0.3 Nm at 1000rpm, I am guessing that's not a problem? I can't seem to find a lot of info on the torque of those motors, as they are

Thanks a lot.

Hi everybody, I need to calculate the motor torque constant (Kt) of a 7 V DC brushed motor. Looking online, it seems that Kt is Torque over Current, but I don't have the current value for the motor. I simply have the Stall Torque (Nm) and the Freerun Speed (RPM) of the motor.

Can anyone assist me in my calculations?

A torque converter is part of an automatic car that replaces the clutch in a traditional manual car, which stops the car from stalling while slowing or idle.

Eli5 what a "high stall" torque converter does. Most reference a number 3600, 4200... Is this the rpm the car idles at??

Please dont read howstuffworks website to me :) ive read that. Tia

Thanks guys! much appreciated!!

When I was a kid, I saw Monster 900 on the cover of some motorcycle enthusiast magazine and it was love at first sight. The big monster has been my dreambike since I realized I wanted a motorcycle, and about a week ago I took the first step towards making that dream a reality

I just got my hands on a project bike, but I may have bitten off more than I can chew. It has a fair share of problems (been scouring the web to try and diagnose the issue, but so far I haven't had much luck pinpointing it) -

[PICTURES HERE] (https://imgur.com/a/xPhuQbl)

First, the good - Bike is almost immaculate cosmetically Lowish mileage (13k) Electrical seems fine at first glance, cable routing looks good, no DIY jank as far as I can tell New tires (nice)

From the mouth of the previous owner (discussing the previous previous owner) the fuel line blew, unsure of whether it was a clog or what - the guy pulled the fuel filter and completely bypassed it which sets off all sorts of red flags in my book.

He also swapped out stock for K&N air filter and sloppily cut the lid of the airbox down. 224915

Bike has some sort of aftermarket carbon exhaust, not sure what the brand is as they all look fairly similar. The bike itself has some unfortunate (maybe minor, maybe major) issues that prevent it from getting on the road

SYMPTOMS

• Low idle, doesn't take throttle well

• Low compression (makes 125-118, spec is 131-160)

• Inconsistent idle (it jumps from 1k - 1.5k - 1k)

• Backfiring out of front end, shop said it seemed to be running fairly lean

• Significantly decreased torque (can't even really roll off before bike stalls)

The previous owner took it to a shop before I got the bike from him, and from the report (which I've attached) 224919

Fuel pressure 48-52psi at all times, lines are routed properly, no kinks Battery voltage low (I've connected it to a conditioner) Swapped out whatever was in tank for 91 octane Backfires into the intake Low idle, does not take throttle well Plugs were fouled (they didn't list how), swapped 118v 124a Tightened belts to spec LEAKDOWN TEST - GOOD (more on this later) Low compression (makes 125-118, spec is 131-160) "Vehicle needs engine work - tear down before quoting"

Several users here had almost identical symptoms, but they never posted resolutions to the problem. I've found suggestions, but as I'm working with a limited repair budget I'd like to make sure everything is done properly/with consideration the first time. I live i