Video of him doing a pull-up on the 45° slopers. [Link]. It may look like he’s using the inside of his pointer fingers to press against the vertical edge but he definitely is not. I was obviously baffled by this feat and investigated the legitimacy of his hang quite closely, he is holding it totally legitimately. He was able to deadhang for about 15 seconds.
My friend has climbed a couple of times in the past. He’s naturally quite strong but not super-human strong or anything. Anyway, he can hang the beastmaker 45° slopers basically no problem, whereas on the same hangboard I cannot hold them for my life. I’ve been climbing for about 5-6 years. I am definitely “stronger” for my bodyweight at holding various hold-types, including slopers.
We learned that taking off all chalk and having a bit of moisture/sweat gives a bit better friction. But even if I try everything he tries, I can’t hang them. I’m led to believe it make be because of skin texture & pliability, or hand morphology, or both. I’m not sure though.
Thoughts?
Hi, title says it all really. I want to improve sloper strength but I wish to do so with a no-hang device as my fingerboard is just an edge. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Coming to camp from Denver in May and I’m looking for trail recommendations along, near, or leading to water.
I’ve hiked all over the Monument and in McInnis, so I’m somewhat familiar with the area, but this is my first visit with my dog. He loves the water and I was hoping to include that aspect if possible.
I have no preference for trail length or difficulty, but would like to avoid short trails (less than 4 miles) and crowded areas.
Any suggestions?
Hey guys, I have super weak joints, so slopers have always been scary to the point where I feel like I'm going to dislocate my wrist. I can only do slopers at v1 level, while I climb normally at V3. I really want to start climbing harder routes as the rest of my body gets stronger, but my wrists kinda hold me back from all the fun looking ones Any training advice on how to strengthen my wrists?
- I have access to a pretty nice climbing gym as well as a normal gym with weight machines and such
Hey, I think we've all run into wrist pain on slopers from time to time.
I saw some false grip pullup training on a youtube video and I was wondering if anyone has experience integrating this type of stuff into their training and if it helped strengthen the wrists specifically for slopers?
I’ve started trying to train for slopers with the slopey edges on the beastmaker 2000 board. I’ve found that when I do this, almost always I get this strange feeling just below my wrist.
At first I thought it was a pop, but it didn’t hurt, it was just a bit disturbing. It felt like the tendons in my wrist are shifting around. No pain or loss of function the next day either.
What’s happening here? Is this safe?
I am wondering if one can use the same protocols for the slopers as one would use when training half-crimp position? Ex. (10sec on, 5sec rest, for 5 repetitions) X 5
Someone who has drawn basic slopers (bodice, sleeve, skirt, pants) with the Mary Wadlington method? I wanted to know if there is someone who has drawn with this method, so that I can consult them as I draw the patterns. I especially have doubts in the part of taking body measurements (page 199), when measuring Front pant, when marking the "panty line" Or does it go down to the crotch, to the point where it splits front to back? Point 3 is located in the crease under the lower abdomen? Or does it go down to the crotch, to the point where it splits front to back? Thanks for any advice. instructions body measuring for pant - measure #3 Panty line
Should I be worried? Is this as a result of lack in mobility? Or strength?
I don't seem to loose grip, It seems that the wrist is engaged then extends slightly. It only seems to happen on slopers. It doesn't hurt, but feels like it shouldn't be happening. It's a similar sensation to cracking knuckles, but in the wrist.
Could it be lack of warming up?
6B+/6C boulder is my level, roughly.
Hey everyone, I climb about v4s, and ive been wondering for a while now cause its one of the weakness ive been trying to work on: Does the feeling of insecurity when u hold onto a sloper ever goes away?
Hi sorry if I'm not using the right terms. I wanna draft a bustier pattern for a dress. Do I need to use a corset pattern or a general fitted bodice? Does it matter?
I want it to be super fitted and cinched, and I like the idea of added support. So a corset would be great for that. But since the pattern is gonna be altered according to my design and measurements anyway, would I get the same results using a basic bodice instead?
Anyone else have this issue? I warm up my wrists before climbing with stretches and some inclined push-ups. But as soon as I’m on a sloper and my wrist is at that 90deg angle, I get sharp pain and can’t make a move off that hold. Should I be warming up more? Do I just need to do more easy sloper routes?
Look I know a bunch of y'all are gonna tell me that slopers are all about body positioning and I know that's true, but there are certain moves or climbs where my positioning is just fine, but I simply feel too weak in the hands to execute. What are the best ways to train that wrist-palm-finger strength? 3FD repeaters? Max hangs? Just climbing more on slopers? Let me know!
Hello Everyone!
I wasn't sure about posting here, but this sub seems so knowledgable and kind that I'm hoping there'll be someone here who can point me in the right direction.
In a nutshell, I'm super confused about how to make a bodice sloper for my proportions. I have a very full bust and a small/narrower back (I wear a 30J bra if that helps give an idea) and I've found that most bodice block tutorials seem to expect you to have a much smaller bust, or bust-to-body ratio, even when working with personal measurements.
I figured making a bodice block/sloper would be easier than trying to adapt regular patterns, since I'm new to sewing, and regular patterns end up gaping really badly at the upper back for me even if my measurements match up to those on the packet. I'm guessing that's because of my back size, but I don't know for sure as I can't seem to find the answer in my fitting books.
Please help me, r/sewing! I have so many ideas for things to make but it's starting to get me down that I can't seem to figure out this first step!
And if you read all of this... Thank you, may you always win bobbin chicken.
