I'm having a difficult time finding reasonably prices shaft collars for my FGC-9 Mk2 build. For some reason, websites like Fastenal and McMaster-Carr are selling those shaft collars for like $60 each. I think I may be looking at the wrong product, as that sounds like a ridiculous price. Please let me know where you purchases your shaft collars. I do not want to buy from a kit because I already have the other parts.

So I'm a bigger guy. I was muscular in my teens and 20's, I'm in my 30's and age is coming pretty fast. I've put on a few pounds due to depression and all kinds of stuff. But I'm not asking for help with that. I'm working on it. My main problem is in my athletic days, I played a bit of football and my calf muscles are large. And with also being fat now... They're large. 22 inches around at 11 inches. That's probably bigger than large. It's not hypertrophia of the muscle, I've checked. No matter the weight I lose, I'm not losing inches in my calf, either.

Do I have any hope of wearing boots? Most boots I find would fit the foot just fine if I could get my calf down in them. Is there anything I can do outside of having a pair custom made for about two grand?

When is it preferable to use a shaft collar over a retaining ring to hold a bearing in place? Aside from the extra step of having to machine a groove in the shaft for the retaining ring to sit inside of, wouldn’t this be a more secure way of fixing the bearing in place as opposed to relying on the set screw of a shaft collar?

I know there are application specific reasons for using one over the other, I’m just not sure when to use which...

Hope everyone is doing ok. Times are tough so i'm looking to sell a couple shafts. I will pay for shipping only to US.

Predator 314-3 Thin Black Collar Uni-loc Quick (Brand New) - $250 - Never chalked or hit with.

BeCue 12.5mm Prime M Uni-loc Quick (used) - SOLD - Used for a year. Has a Outsville Ki-tech Hard that has only been hit with a few times as i just changed the tip before this quarantine thing started. Great shaft.

If you have any questions, feel free to DM me. Thanks.

These are "double split shaft" I only need single-split

• any thoughts / opinions on what is a reasonable estimate? price per piece?

feeling extra fancy?

AH, for 3/4 Inch diameter

#EDIT: I am just ALWAYS blown away by this community in particular~ it's always such an uplifting blend of enterprise, altrusism, curiosity, and fucking KINDNESS. thank you all so much...

So I've been working on an 80cc install with my uncle in law since we're both into anything on two wheels and wanted to work on a project to pass the time. We've been troubleshooting other issues with the bike, mainly getting the thing to start when we encountered yet another issue today. Originally when we set the kit up on the bike the clutch worked fine after adjusting the flower nut. The cam shaft arm would engage the bucking bar which would push the push pin out disengaging the clutch. We where trying to bump start the bike down a hill today when the clutch seized up. The chain sprocket on the engine wouldn't move at all when he popped the clutch which seized up the back wheel. We took the clutch cover and sprocket covers off to find out what was going on. For whatever reason the sprocket was seized up so we thought perhaps the clutch was to tight even though we already adjusted it. We tried loosening the clutch but no change. After not being able to figure out what was going on I tried to put the bucking bar back in and replace the cover with the cam shaft arm but I realized for whatever reason the bucking bar was sticking out further now and I could no longer place the cam shaft cover back on because of how further the push pin was moving the bucking bar out to the left. After watching a few videos on YouTube I realized that there could be a chance that the holding pin that goes through the shaft into the push pin might have sheared which explained why I was able to rotate the chain sprocket after taking the cover off but could no longer replace the cam shaft over the bucking bar to replace the sprocket cover.

I haven't even gotten the engine to run yet though, could it really be the push pin that I sheared? I bought an aftermarket HP carb for the motor when I ordered the motor off amazon and I broke the gasket that goes under the throttle assembly cover. I also snapped one of the head studs on the thing trying to torgue down the head bolts with a cheap torque wrench I bought that wasn't working correctly. I replaced the head stud with a new one today and was trying to do a compression test when I ran into this issue. I bought another carb for the thing too since they're only $20 bucks and there's no way in **** I'm just giving up on this thing after how much I've learned about these bike motors over the past few weeks of research and watching YouTube videos.

I bought another 80cc motor for $80 bucks today, but if possible I'd like to try and

As the title suggests, I've noticed that both single-piece and two-piece clamp shaft collars have grooves on the flat faces. Take this or this as examples.

Is there any particular benefit to this design feature? Is it simply to cut excess mass?

We are a rookie team and I have been looking for some 5mm hex shaft collar. I know that REV has some set screw shaft collar, but it I'm worried about slippage. So need some recommendation for a 5mm hex clamp on collar.