I have a motor start capacitor which measures more than the rating when tested with my multimeter. 145 - 175 Mfd BUT measures 230 Mfd. Have not seen one measure higher before. It has a resistor soldered between the terminals. Is this a bad reading or a bad capacitor.
I have a Thermador PHH30DS range hood. Turning on the fan gives only a hum and the blower does not turn. With the power off I can turn it by hand but there's resistance at some points while turning. It's been awhile since the fan completely failed but I believe it started to get louder and slower until it eventually reached this point where it just hums.
Under the assumption that it was built up grease I've taken it down and removed the motor. No excessive grease is visible around the blower or motor.
I've checked the capacitor and gotten an overload reading while testing in circuit. Disconnecting the capacitor from the circuit I get the expected 25 uF reading. Are there tests I can make of the motor to check for other issues, e.g.: shorted windings? I have a multimeter but not a clamp-on current probe.
The motor is discontinued. The capacitor appears difficult to get but likely possible at a reasonable cost. Would it be worthwhile to get a capacitor just to see if this resolves the issue?
ETA: Capacitor reads wrong while in circuit.
Wiring diagram posted here: https://imgur.com/a/frOPnJG
Thanks for any help you can give.
So i got this used craftsman old table saw with an induction driven system. it would run fine and when i made adjustments and replaced the bearings i would have to lift the motor up at times for it to run. So I figured there was too much tension in the belt causing too much load for the initial start. So today I turned it on and one of the run capacitor exploded up with a plastic smell. So is it the tension in the belt that caised too much load which caused it to over heat or was the capacitor going bad. BecauSe it would also Humm on the start?
I’m restoring a watchmakers lathe from the 1930’s, and the motor it came with is variable speed (with centrifugal switch that’s quite nifty). Anyways, the motor is 115V ac/dc, 0.7A and have done the rough calculations to ~.091HP, or 68 watts. The problem is that the start/run capacitor is a paper and wax canister type, and testing it gives me a capacitance of 250 nano farads, which seems exceptionally low. I figured it would need roughly ~100 microfarads, and am trying to figure out what type of capacitor I should replace it with. If anyone has any input, I’d love to hear it.
It has been my understanding that adding a capacitor in parallel with one of the motor windings allows it to have the another phase for the 3rd winding and the motor to spin. This makes a lot of sense.
However, if I ask anyone in my trade what a capacitor does. They say it provides a small burst of electricity to start the motor, like the starter in your car. It also stored electricity like a battery.
To my understanding, a capacitor in an AC circuit doesn't hold a charge when the system is off. In fact if I turn off the system and check voltage I get 0Vdc
I just want some clarity on what the capacitor does for a compressor motor/fan motor.
Am I wrong?
I have this ceiling fan and after removing all the bulk I'm left with this capacitor(s) that's used to vary the speed of the fan. It has 3 speeds.
As far as I can tell, one of the coils is wired directly to the mains (230VAC) and for the other, one wire goes to hot and one wire connects to the Gray of the capacitors box. Now the speed is varied by connecting the neutral wire to either Blue, Yellow or both.
How does this work and why?
https://preview.redd.it/6hlvw6znwmp71.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=44b44fac40a877c39dc2181cfafff63bc45f25bc
Has anyone added a capacitor to their battery bank in either series or parallel with the motor? I am thinking that might help with the initial draw when you press the gas pedal.
Just a theory...
My range hood just stopped working.. I took it down and was ready to get a new motor. I've seen a post here that it could be the capacitor so I gave it a try to troubleshoot if it could be it. I do not know how to use a multimeter... so I tried to spin the fan and it started running again on speed 2 and 3 (Theres 3 speed) but Speed 1 doesn't work at all like it's trying and having a hard time starting.. Does anyone know if it's the capacitor or I need a new motor?
Basically what the title says. Any recommendations on what to look for or replace? The HVAC techs aren't responsive right now, and I'm about to deploy. I'd like this to be fixed enough so I don't leave my wife with this issue -- or at least buy some time for the techs to come.out and fix after I've gone. Thank you in advance!
Edit: turns out to have been a bad motor. Replaced motor has been running a while and is not getting hot. Thank you all for the advice!
Hello,
I have a Bryant unit from 2002, and the capacitor and fan motor went the other night. I replaced the (bulging) capacitor and the fan motor. All connections are in their proper place on the capacitor (fan to fan, compressor to herm).. the unit starts right up and cools appropriately. Then the fan motor shuts down and the compressor keeps running. I turn the breaker off to the condenser. After a while I can turn it back on and repeat until the fan heats up again.. any ideas?
Capacitor specs match exactly
Fan motor specs match exactly.. its pretty much the same fan motor as what I had, got it directly from grainger yesterday. Everything on the sticker matches, including rotation direction.
Blades were taken off of old motor and re installed on new motor.
Any help would be appreciated!
So the blower fan has been VERY loudly buzzing for a couple days. I was about to replace the fan then considered it might actually be the capacitor which is the problem (that would be my preference as a much cheaper part).
Which is the more common culprit? Anyway to test it besides just swapping out the capacitor first? This is an old Lennox Elite model furnace.
Update: it was the fan motor. Replaced and resolved it myself.
It's me Maintenance Guy. Have a 50 yo synchronous stepper motor that probably has a bad cap (which also contains PCB'S!). It has a 3.75uF cap, 370v oval metal can. I'm pretty sure it's oil filled.
The Question: do I need to replace the cap with another oil filled, or can I use a solid film box style cap.
