I'm not asking for 10.1 per m1, i have awakened for that. But why cant it do a bit more damage? Like damn if i go against boxing i get about 5-6 damage if i don't have awakening on. I recon a buff would be a bit nice. What do ya'll think?
Hey everyone!
I was just wondering is there anyone who received an internship offer at GE? I’m currently looking for a roommate cuz this rent is a little expensive. If you have a car that would be great. Serious Inquires only.
Hey, I'm looking to get a Lexis is300, and would eventually want to turbo it. Make it a NA-T, I'm only looking for 300-350 wheel and I was wondering how much power the stock vvti rods can handle as I hear they are skinnier than the non vvti rods. Thanks
Hi,
I have an upright washer / dryer. The model is: WSM27TCBWWW. It's made by GE.
Neither the dryer nor the washer will turn on. It seems like it's not getting any power. I checked the breaker and everything is good. I checked the power supply with a multimeter and it has power.
I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what to do next to fix it?
Thank you!
It seems like I have to power cycle my 4 C by GE bulbs almost every other day. I have a long house with the router being right in the middle of it. So, having to do a 30 second power cycle on every bulb is a pain. I use vanilla google home, don't have automation or routines and would prefer the ability to color change but that's not a deal breaker. So done.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Model: J2S968SH2SS
Control Board: WB27T10408
I have a J2S968 line GE Profile Dual Fuel Range that beeps and gives an F0 code ten minutes after the power is cycled at the breaker. Naturally parts are no longer available for this range.
For the first five minutes the keyboard control panel works fine; clock, timer, keyboard lock, oven, self clean, whatever. Then it beeps once and the keyboard will no longer work, but it takes another 5 minutes for the F0 code to appear.
I read that oftentimes this is a stuck On/Off key. I pulled the key panel off and the resistance measured per mfr specs on my multimeter.
Power cycling while leaving the ribbon cable to the keys disconnected causes the same FO code after 10 minutes. That led me to suspect the control board. But when I pulled the control board out and visually inspected it, I saw no signs of obvious component failure (like a blown capacitor).
Any ideas on what to do next, given the 10 minute error? Could there be a blown relay or failed sensor I am not testing?
College senior at Clemson. Just applied for FMP (financial management program) with GE Power. Are there any other types of jobs similar to this role that I can apply for? I know commercial banking have similar jobs.
I replaced my pool pump controls with the switch in the title ( GE/Jasco 14285 ), but my calculated power seems to be off by a lot. Currently reading 227.7V, 14.77A but the power is only coming out to 2548W, where I would have been expecting closer to 3300W.
On a side note, I have two pumps and I set up a 40A contactor inline with the second pump so I can control that one independently only when the first pump is running which is seemingly working perfectly. This above example is when both pumps are running. With a single pump running I'm reading 229.5V, 8.83A and 1687W, where I would think it should be 2000W.
Grad student in Business Analytics and in the final round for the GE Power FMP Fall 2021 and was curious if I could get some more general information from graduates or just people in the know. Salary, rotations, exits, things you wish you had known, and the like.
Thanks for all your help.
I bought a C by Ge smart switch for my basement lights they use GU10 bulbs everything was working fine until I traded out the regular bulbs for led color bulbs. The switch works as long as I keep one bulb non led.
So my question is there a way to keep power to the switch without the neutral from what I have read its not working because the led GU10 bulbs don't draw enough to keep the switch powered.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions
Okay, I know, I know: "Just 3S-GTE swap it! Why waste your time on the 3SGE?"
Fair point. However, I'm finding that used 3S-GTEs in my area (complete with ECU and wiring) seem to be impacted by the used car market madness and prices are quite high. Even DIY, I'll be spending $3.5-5k.
To that end, has anyone gotten decent power out of their 3S-GE without breaking the bank? E.g. headers, intake, exhuast and maybe cams? Reading through older forum posts, I'm getting mixed answers on what's actually possible.
Thanks!
