Hello. Anyone in The Houston Area knows of water heater expansion tank are optional by the code ? I asked the builder and said they do not install expansion tanks on water heater. I was wondering if it can be a code thing on the area? Thoughts?
Hey folks,
I recently suffered some flooding issues due to maintenance work by my city hammering my residence after not gradually opening the mains or flushing pressure/sediment from a hydrant. It cause several pex joints to drip and one crimp to break entirely.
The first question I have is my brand new (6 month old) hot water tank had water pooling on top of it and through the insultation for 30 hours before being discovered. I noticed rust already appearing at the bottom of the tank. Should I get my insurance to replace on the claim I already opened for other damages? Will the longevity of the tank be reduced and/or warranty voided?
Several folks here mentioned I would need a PRV possibly. In my research (layman here) it seems I was mostly likely a victim of air in the pipes rather than water and a PRV won't control air. Am I reading something incorrectly?
I'll be having a plumber on site this week and asking them to check the pressure while here. If a PRV is needed then I'll install one. That said, nobody here mentioned I'd likely need a thermal expansion tank as a PRV creates a closed loop and expansion from my water heater would put increased pressure on pipes/joints. Is this true? For an easily accessible area how long does a typical PRV + expansion tank installation take? I'm just estimating how much I may end up paying.
Thanks for the feedback, all of you on this subreddit have been really helpful navigating my recent flooding!
I’m about to replace the water pump and thermostat in my E90 and recently when checking the coolant level the cap snapped in two and half the cap is stuck screwed in. I figured I’d go already and just replace the expansion tank and cap since the cap is stuck and the tank probably needs replacement anyways. However I see that on FCP euro Rein and OEM are the two options and I’m wondering if it’s really worth the extra $100 for the OEM vs Rein tank. Anybody use the Rein tank or know if I should stay clear of it?
It's a relatively minor problem but since we had a new HW tank fitted (the old one was leaking) there's been a leak from the overflow pipe that pokes out from the loft. I've been up there and the expansion tank is overfilling. We only have one tank up there which is the HW expansion tank.
It looks like water is backing up from the pipe at the bottom where water goes out. If we run the hot tap for a bit, the level drops and the dripping outside abates.
The plumber who did the HW cylinder doesn't seem all that bothered tbh but it is annoying and I'm wasting a fair bit of water like this.
I've been around loads of the piping with a magnet to see if there's sludge but can't see any.
When I run the hot tap to let some of the water go back into the tank, the water that comes out (since the weather turned) is very cold. Is mains cold getting into the HW loop? The water backing up into the tank doesn't seem hot.
How necessary are these? I’m not a plumber, but I’ve done my fair share of plumbing and do my best to learn and follow code. My basement flooded and I either had to call a plumber and wait a week or tackle the job myself. So, I did it myself. I made sure the previous power vent PVC running out of the basement had the right pitch/length according to the manual. Gas line has the trap installed properly. I ran pex to copper for the in/out. The heater didn’t have an expansion tank previously so I didn’t install one on the new tank. I’ve lurked here for a while and I don’t always see one on water heater installs. When are they needed? Should I put one in? If you need more details I can provide.
I just bought a 2015 dodge dart 2.0L. When I start the car and give it some gas in park, it makes a circulating liquid sound from the dash on drivers side. I can only get it to happen once each time I start the car and press the gas. No wet floors, no sign of water in doors. Is this normal and I was freaking over nothing? Im going to take it to a mechanic and have the car looked over for major issues and needed maintenance but would appreciate your input here.
So a few months ago our 55gal water heater in the attic broke. The water heater was too wide for the attic pull down door, so I opted for a tall 40 gallon tank with the thought I'd put a mixing valve on it if we ever needed it as it's just my wife and I.
Fast forward now, we are running out of hot water. So I figured I'll install one of those and crank up the hot water temp. Is it that simple?
We also do not have an expansion tank. I'm thinking if the water in the hot water heater is sitting at 140°F+, a expansion tank would probably be even more important. Can this be installed next to the tank in the attic as well?
Is wall to wall expected this early or do we wait to gear up ilvl a bit?
Edit: expansion tank going on. Thank you for all that replied.
As title says there's a pinhole leak misting small stream of water out of expansion tank. Is there a good fix temporary or otherwise? I was considering jb weld but was unable to confirm if the pressure would be too great for the patch. If that would work, I'm guessing turning off flow to tank and deying area would be the prerequisite steps?
Take the wording of this post with a grain of salt, as my girlfriend was the one home at the time the technician came, and she then relayed everything to me verbally.
My girlfriend and I are new homeowners in Cincinnati, OH and got a $53 coupon to have our water heater flushed. Seemed quite reasonable to have the flush and get the system more generally inspected, as well as establish rapport with a local plumber as we want to also replace some galvanized pipes.
Our water heater doesn't have an expansion tank and was reading 120 psi - he mentioned it shouldn't be over 75 psi and made it seem like it could burst at any time (upon Googling, I assume only if there was a relief valve failure? Although I know sustained high pressure is bad for pipes in general, is this an immediate concern?)
Altogether he quoted $1,022 for installation of the expansion tank and pressure regulator. This seemed high to me considering it's in the ballpark of installing a brand new water heater, but I'm obviously new to all of this. Does this seem reasonable?
Thanks, A concerned and ignorant new homeowner
Edit for pics: https://m.imgur.com/a/y553fxJ
About 3 years ago I had a major reputable plumbing company install a new main water line. They recommend adding a water pressure regulator valve. It was only $50 and made sense so I agreed. However, now I'm going to be replacing the hot water heater and I'm reading that a expansion tank is highly recommend when there's a regulator valve present since it's now a close looped system. The plumbing company knew I did not have an expansion tank. I see that there's certain regulator valves that still allow water to flow back so it's not a closed loop system. Are those common ? Is it likely the plumbing company used one of those that's why it was okay to not have an expansion tank? Really don't want to buy and install extra stuff unless it's really necessary.
Specifically, why do they go on the cold water inlet, and how do they prevent the pressure relief valve from leaking?
