Are there any benefits over steel/other metals?
Is there a code on a capacitor's packaging that will tell me the tolerance of the component. I've done a bit of googling and can find nothing other than that -/+20% is the most common.
Hello,
I am wondering why exactly do ceramic capacitors come in smaller farad ratings versus electrolytics. Why can't ceramics come in larger capacitance ratings and also what exactly is ESR and how does it impact the overall performance of a capacitor? Thanks
I'm finding 1µF and 4.7µF are values I can easily pick as ceramic capacitor. Tolerance is smaller, size is smaller and it seems longevity would probably be better than with an electrolytic capacitor.
Hello sub, in your experience how many years do electrolytic capacitors work in low current audio circuits?
These caps are usually in the 1uf - 220uf / 25v-63v range, and are used in circuits that are most often 9v (sometimes 12 or 18 volts).
An example circuit I am talking about:
https://images.app.goo.gl/Yi6THm44qiYaacuRA
An example of the kind of capacitor I am talking about:
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10uf-25v-105c-radial-electrolytic-capacitor-5x11mm.html
bonus question: Also, what is the shelflife of an electrolytic? thank you
Hey everyone,
I’m a little confused on the purpose of having both kinds of (bulk and ceramic) capacitors on the inputs and outputs of switching regulators. If you can meet or exceed the data sheet’s recommended input and output capacitance with only ceramics, is there any reason to still include an electrolytic or tantalum cap? I figure with the interest in saving space it’d be best to avoid those large caps altogether.
One argument I’ve read is that during hot-plugging or quick changes on the input voltage, the ceramic capacitors can act as wire wound inductors and cause under damped ringing large enough that it can exceed the voltage rating of the regulator and/or its accompanying caps and possibly releasing magic smoke. But if you introduce enough poles via varying capacitor values (10uF, 22uF, 4.7uF), you could essentially mitigate that, even more so with a slow start setting to prevent excessive current inrush.
So are tantalums or electrolytic capacitors really needed for those designs? Or is it just their higher voltage rating and cap values that are sought after?
