I tested this on a spare door and right away the droplets start flying out in different sizes. In general the paint goes on VERY quickly and speckly at the same time. I can't use it like this. I tried cleaning out the spray tip with a paint brush and laquer thinner and also I shook the can extremely hard and frequently. Did I get a bad can or am I using this realllly wrong? btw I am following the instructions, 8-10" away, perpindicular, 50% overlap. *I think it's 50% overlap, I'd have to check. But whatever it is that's the pattern I used and but you can tell before the first pass is even over that it's not going on right anyhow.
https://preview.redd.it/pq9bgw7b02771.png?width=663&format=png&auto=webp&s=3b4134e686937ff5dc89844fe2a76f145b42d4cf
https://preview.redd.it/eeunbfca12771.png?width=1201&format=png&auto=webp&s=7542bd3700bab666ea2e997e75641b5d6afb9de2
https://preview.redd.it/p3swgd4d12771.png?width=1195&format=png&auto=webp&s=efd92ff9b21fc42559bf4f8e94c7e782c9bc98eb
https://preview.redd.it/1g2a3qhf12771.png?width=1198&format=png&auto=webp&s=0b5d39c1afe5556dbab6ac252e0f1720ebcd2ef2
Hi all, I know people are always on the hunt for tunes, dude I know started compiling a playlist of freeby downloads from labels/producers on SoundCloud...got so big it hit the limit on the number of tunes in a playlist SoundCloud allows, so he's started number 2, too!
Part 1 494 tracks: https://soundcloud.com/pete-kelly-1/sets/free-downloads
Part 2 185 tracks and being added to often: https://soundcloud.com/pete-kelly-1/sets/freebies
And 52 tracks just from Jaap Lightart for good measure: https://soundcloud.com/jaapligthart/sets/free-downloads
Some are direct from SoundCloud, but most will link of to the likes of Hypeddit which forces you to like/comment on the tune...some then request you to like their Insta/Facebook, but you can click link to say you don't have those and then it will start the download
If you like your deep/prog/tech/melodic, happy digging!!! There's some fucking gold in them thar hills!
Sometimes it becomes necessary to ossify ones conical flange to prevent radial spread whilst ejecting ballast. It helps to Γ΅eΓΌmΓ±Γ³t ones Γ―p while clenching ones gwΔΔΓΏΓ£o. If this fails to produce the required results, contact your nearest FlΓ²Γ³mΓ΅iΓ± Corporation representative.
I just got an Iwata Neo. After painting with it for a bit it randomly spatters water. I clean with thinners and water in between paints, I use flow improver and my compressor has a moisture trap on it. I put thinners on a q-tip and periodically wipe the needle and nozzle end to remove dry paint. I even flush airbrush cleaner through it.
No matter what I do, I push down for just air and water spatters out, almost if there's water stuck somewhere in it. It also randomly spits out water when I'm painting. It sounds like there's water stuck somewhere in it and it comes out in a big burst.
I tried cleaning it, I accidentally unscrewed part number 9 in manual and now I'm wondering if I need to unscrew that again and re-tighten. But in reality I'm not sure why it sputters water with paint+air or just air.
Any help is much appreciated. It's only a couple hours old and I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Google is also not very helpful.
Boy people in 2000 must have been so befuddled by the endgame being so heavily reliant on having beaten a game they never got.
The cast in both games were great, especially with how they developed overall. I'd say the lack of social links is a retroactive boon overall because character arcs are built into the plotline. Rather than everyone just staying mostly the same with protag-kun having the option (not option) to hang out and give them an arc that has no bearing on the actual story. I'd actually give the edge to the EP crew just for being grown ass adults who resolve to seal the deal when the children understandably could not. I love how Tatsuya spends 35 fucking hours of EP being an angsty lone wolf, and when he comes clean, all the grown ups are just like "Of course we're going to see this through, kid." Legitimately hilarious.
The plot is good overall but the bulk of EP's plotline felt weaker than IS did. Part of that is the translation + that absolutely G-tier voice acting for some characters (The Tatsuyas were just...fuck). Part of it was that a lot of the plot was remembering IS was a thing, and the rest just didn't feel as focused OR have the same sense of absurd escalation IS did. Hell, the bulk of the plot being a reskin of IS's plot elements is a PLOT POINT. The personal connection between the IS crew was stronger and more relevant to the plot, while EP has a gaggle of adults carrying some angst around that comes to a head in the final dungeon. Stronger ending though for EP, like FUCK.
Maya is best girl in Persona and it was criminal to make her a silent-ish protag in her game. Even if she was more mellowed out from the timeline differences, she just doesn't work with only ever saying "........" or a couple of dialogue choices. Period.
Combat was tedious trash at points especially near the end of each game but it didn't stop me from snorting that there character interaction and plot. Everyone being able to swap Personas instead of just protagonist-kun the Wild Card was fucking busted, especially with the guide I followed for EP, but so refreshing. Fusion Spells as a concept would be nice to have back but in most every other respect P4G and 5's combat just blow it out of the water.
So in EP, at the very end, Nyarlathotep reveals Tatsuya's big sin and apparently a big twist was! He did not forget about the events of Innocent Sin. Which was established in like the opening FMV? Right? Was I missing something, or was the twist
... keep reading on reddit β‘so I bought a Sparmax sp-35 airbrush in January for around $105Aud and it was performing fine until the 0.35mm nozzle of it deformed a bit. I bought a 0.2mm nozzle earlier this month and it fits fine and perfect and all but I keep getting this paint spatter whenever I use it. it really messed up the texture of the armor on my Brummbar model.
I clean the airbrush after every time I use it with eucalyptus oil.
my compressor is a Dynamic power 1/6hp 3L (valued at $160 on Amazon)
my paint is thinned according to this YT video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tF0Di0RDdp0&t=596s
images of my brummbar and the spattering below
the front plate texture is ruined
the spattering from the nozzle when the trigger is half pulled
(Image quality isn't superb, I'm still learning the tools. Also, this info could apply to other colors as well, but white appears to be the one that comes up the most often.)
I recently started mixing my own acrylic paints with pigment and acrylic binders. My first attempt at white paint (titanium white pigment, matte acrylic medium) spattered horribly and eventually clogged my airbrush entirely. I decided to take a (very) close look at what was going on with the pigment.
First things first, here are the images before and after milling the pigment in a mortar and pestle:
https://imgur.com/a/eBrSWGD
More about the images:
The images are magnified about 100 times. I don't know exactly what that magnification is because it's just an inexpensive pseudo-microscope.
In the first image (pre-milling) you can see some small-ish clumps and some very large ones. It's important to note that these are clumps, not solid little rocks. The manufacturer would pass the raw pigment through a mill that would guarantee a limited maximum size, but titanium white (the base pigment of virtually all white paint) is especially prone to clumping. This clumping, if left as-is and mixed into the binder (ie. acrylic, oil) is what causes problems with splatter and clogging.
The second image is the exact same magnification of the pigment after breaking up the clumps in a small mortar and pestle for a couple of minutes. You can see that the largest clumps remaining are about the same size as the smallest clumps in the first image, and we even have some micro-fine powder that is ideal for smooth, consistent, clog-free airbrush painting. (I should point out that this batch of re-milled pigment worked quite well in my airbrush even with the small clumps remaining. It doesn't all have to be super-fine.)
Traditionally, paint would be mixed with binder/medium on a glass slab (sometimes finely textured) with a tool called a muller, which is a tool made of glass with a flared, textured bottom. They can be awfully expensive in the context of what you need for painting in small volumes, but they serve the purpose of helping to break down the clumps in the paint and mix them thoroughly through the binder.
Another alternative that is much more accessible for modellers and people using relatively small volumes of paint is a mini mortar and pestle ([example](https://www.ebay.ca/itm/60mm-Mini-Porcelain-Mortar
... keep reading on reddit β‘
Like a lizard, but more violent.
Title says it all Folks.
(Image quality isn't superb, I'm still learning the tools. Also, this info could apply to other colors as well, but white appears to be the one that comes up the most often.)
I recently started mixing my own acrylic paints with pigment and acrylic binders. My first attempt at white paint (titanium white pigment, matte acrylic medium) spattered horribly and eventually clogged my airbrush entirely. I decided to take a (very) close look at what was going on with the pigment.
First things first, here are the images before and after milling the pigment in a mortar and pestle:
https://imgur.com/a/eBrSWGD
More about the images:
The images are magnified about 100 times. I don't know exactly what that magnification is because it's just an inexpensive pseudo-microscope.
In the first image (pre-milling) you can see some small-ish clumps and some very large ones. It's important to note that these are clumps, not solid little rocks. The manufacturer would pass the raw pigment through a mill that would guarantee a limited maximum size, but titanium white (the base pigment of virtually all white paint) is especially prone to clumping. This clumping, if left as-is and mixed into the binder (ie. acrylic, oil) is what causes problems with splatter and clogging.
The second image is the exact same magnification of the pigment after breaking up the clumps in a small mortar and pestle for a couple of minutes. You can see that the largest clumps remaining are about the same size as the smallest clumps in the first image, and we even have some micro-fine powder that is ideal for smooth, consistent, clog-free airbrush painting. (I should point out that this batch of re-milled pigment worked quite well in my airbrush even with the small clumps remaining. It doesn't all have to be super-fine.)
Traditionally, paint would be mixed with binder/medium on a glass slab (sometimes finely textured) with a tool called a muller, which is a tool made of glass with a flared, textured bottom. They can be awfully expensive in the context of what you need for painting in small volumes, but they serve the purpose of helping to break down the clumps in the paint and mix them thoroughly through the binder.
Another alternative that is much more accessible for modellers and people using relatively small volumes of paint is a mini mortar and pestle ([example](https://www.ebay.ca/itm/60mm-Mini-Porcelain-Mortar
... keep reading on reddit β‘
