By research I can tell its a square taper bottom bracket. And cranks are all terra. I have the bottom bracket tool only, but I tried unscrewing cranks and they won't come off like that.
Does yours creak a lot on the trainer ? Outdoors i dont have any issue.
So I am having the dreaded “click” on each pedal stroke, roughly the time the Right Pedal reaches the 6 o’clock position. I sent a video to Peloton Support who told me that the crank arm needed realignment and set up a repair order with Select Tech.
Although it took a while to get the appointment set up, about 2.5 weeks, the service tech was awesome!! He listened to the sound and immediately told me it probably wasn’t the crank arm but the bottom bracket being loose on one side. He stated he would attempt to tighten it appropriately and apply new locktite but that generally once the noise begins the tightening doesn’t fix the problem and the bracket has to be replaced. He also said the cranks would be aligned as part of that process anyhow so not to worry on that.
He spent about an hour disassembling, cleaning the parts and re-coating with locktite, and reassembling. Unfortunately, he was right and the noise continues. He says he’ll submit paperwork for a new bracket and when it comes in we can reschedule to do the replacement. He said the issue has multiple factors but generally it’s that during assembly one side is over torqued (he said a lot of techs don’t use a torque wrench to avoid over tightening when they assemble) and that’s what leads to the issue.
Super nice guy and very knowledgeable, hope he comes back to do the replacement.
Who else has had this problem and what ended up being the fix for you?
This sound is driving me nuts, it only appears under moderate-to-high cadence, it's not always present but usually starts after I get moving a bit and then is present throughout the rest of the ride.
It sounds like the drive train but I've removed, cleaned and regreased the bottom bracket cups, bearings, cranks, chainring, pedals, rear derailleur, replaced the chain, made sure the seat and seat post were tight and greased, tightened cleats on shoes, lubed the springs in the clipless pedals, greased the quick release skewers and the axles/dropouts, and checked every other box that I've been able to find on the internet.
The bike is a 94 Stumpjumper M2 FS with a surly troll fork. Pretty much everything on the bike is new as of last summer, and although I've done a number of miles, most things shouldn't be wearing out quite yet. I absolutely love the bike and I love riding it, I just want it to be silent! I recently converted it from 26" to 650b, but the clicking noise has been present for some time. It's persisted through a chain change, a wheel set change, pedal changes, and much more.
It sounds like it's coming from somewhere around the bottom bracket/drivetrain area. I've checked the frame for any signs of cracks and haven't seen anything. The noise happens when riding with or without clipless shoes, and it doesn't happen every stroke until it starts, and then it's consistent from then on out until I go to really low cadence or coasting at which point it stops until I start pedaling at a decent rate again.
Any thoughts? It doesn't make the noise on the bike stand and I've checked every single thing I can think of short of taking the fork out and checking the headset. Headset looks to be in good shape and in good position still.
Edit: Does this require a square taper crankset
Hi there! I am a relatively experienced home mechanic but never had to buy new cranksets and replace them so I am not really experienced with all the different sizes and industry standards.
I am helping a friend replacing his drive train (cassette, chain, pulley wheels, et cetera). He wants to switch to a compact crankset because he finds himself cross chaining a lot to find the ideal cadence at the speeds and power he rides. Not everyone can ride >40 kph like pro's do so his 53-39 crankset is a bit optimistic for the higher cadence he prefers.
He currently has a Dura Ace 7800 53-39 crankset and chainrings with a crank length of 180mm. (I didn't even know cranks that long existed, but apparently Dura Ace cranks can go up to 177,5 and 180, where other cranks only go up to 175).
Initially he wanted to keep the bike all original so with Dura-ace parts from the same era, but we quickly found that a compact Dura Ace 7800 crankset doesn't exist so we started looking at other 10-speed compact Shimano cranks. The options were Ultegra 6700, 105 5700 and Tiagra 4700, but only the Tiagra seems to be available to buy the rest is sold out or out of production. He is afraid the Tiagra crank will decrease the value of the bike but I told him that if he just keeps the DA crank to install if he ever decides to sell the bike and that the newer Tiagra is probably outperforming the older DA.
Thus far the introduction, now the questions:
•The bike is a 2011 65cm Canyon Roadlite F6. It's a tall bike and a tall guy (198cm) therefore the long cranks make sense. Will he be fine getting the 175mm Tiagra cranks?? Or will the shorter cranks have a huge impact and cause him not to be comfortable?? (longer is only available on DA so I guess we don't have any other choice)?
•Will the bottom bracket just fit the much newer crankset? I don't have any idea about axle diameter, BB width etcetera, but I think the DA 7800 uses the same hollow tech dimensions as the newer cranksets?
•Are there any other cranksets from other brands like FSA for example (the crank must be relatively affordable) that will easily fit the bike, are available to buy and are compact?
•He is currently riding 52-39 (recently replaced the 53) with a 11-28 cassette. Is 50-34 with a 11-25 a good option looking at the information stated above?
•Are there any other things I should consider or take into account?
I was adjusting my back brake, and noticed a light on my bottom bracket. It’s on the left side of the bike, and it’s a white dot looking thing. THATS A LIGHT BULB! It blinked red for some reason, but I couldn’t get it to do it again. Anybody know what that light is for? Do I need to get my engine checked? (Lmao jk)... Nah, but what is that light for? I have an S1.
Hi. May I kindly ask someone to post me the close-up image(s) from under the bottom bracket shell of your Trek 520, which comes with T4060 Alivio crankset? I need to see the spacers configuration used by Trek on this bike on each side of BB (it's not done standard way). I'm currently upgrading my Marin Four Corners to a similar setup, and this info will help a lot. Just a close up image(s) from under the bottom bracket shell will do. Thanks.
My prediction is that Trek used 2x2.5mm spacers on non-drive side, and 1x2.5 on drive side (apposed to official Shimano docs), but it might be also, that they've used 2x2.5+1x0.7mm on NDS and 1x1.8mm on DS. That's what I'm trying to figure out, but I don't have access to the bike to check that out myself.
Hi, recently started commuting via cycling in view of the current pandemic. I'm a pretty large-sized guy (6ft2, 222 lbs) and noticed when I stand and pedal to climb hills, the bottom bracket? crank? pedals? make a creaking noise. I have tried tightening the chainring bolts to no avail. Is this something I should be worried about? thanks :)
Hello everyone, I have a Sram DUB treaded bottom bracket. The bearings on the drive side have just failed at the 2000km mark. This is earlier than i expected (never had issues with Shimano). A friend of mine also had this happen with two of his bikes. He has a DUB pressfit bottom bracket failing at 900km and on another bike showing signs of failure around the 3000km mark. Are there more people having problems with Sram bottom brackets and does anyone know an alternative bottom bracket which might last longer?
Just serviced a customer's bike that I thought had a BB crossthreaded into the wrong side. However it turns out that it was just built backwards - the metal lip went on the non driveside then the plastic cup went on the driveside. How common were these, seeing as this is the first one I've seen?
