I am looking at a 1995 Saab 9000 aero for sale and it’s perfect except the seller claims it needs a new throttle position sensor. I’ve tried looking online for advice on this repair and how to do it but I can’t find much of anything for 9000s. Does anyone here have experience with TPS repairs on Saab’s? Any idea on how difficult it is to do or how much it would be to bring it to a shop? Thanks!
I got a fault in companion module code and with further investigation found a tps code, my truck will crank and crank but I have to cycle the key 4-5 times to get it to start, even then it only works half the time. Would the tps going out cause this or something else entirely? 1998 24v ram 2500
My TPS crapped out and I need a new one, I can’t find one online or at the auto parts store. I’d hate to have to go to the dealer or a shop because this is such an easy repair. Anyone know where I can get one?
Im guessing the TB has to be removed, but do the TB sensors get removed individually? Such as the TPS amd APPS?
Hey guys,
I've problems with my bike. It started as spark plug fail but after replacing the spark plugs I can't start the engine.
Actually is starts super easy, on a first crank, and then stall or after 2-3 seconds of rough idle it stalls.
Before it happen this, at the morning I have very low idle. Like - it starts fine and then it lower the RPM to 600 and then slowly pick up idle.
I've removed the TPS and when I was measuring the resistance it's 0.5 Ohm below the standards as per the user manual. 3.5 ohm
Standard TPS resistance - 4-8 ohm - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375217/Kawasaki-Z750-Abs.html?page=135#manual
I've the same reading on the Subthrottle sensor as well - 3.53 ohm.
Ah, also. I have white smoke when I worm it up and I know that can be due to many other things but I overall suspect for TPS sensor now.
My question is - can 0.5 Ohm difference below standard cause this failure?
Thanks in advance!
When I shift out of gear into neutral to Coast to a red light the RPMs wouldn't drop from 3000. Did a little research and those three things are what kept coming up. Anyone have any further insight? Kind of sucks because I just got the car like a month ago.
I had this fault a couple of times last week, cleared it and it hasn't come back in the last few trips. My mechanic suggested cleaning the throttle sensor with contact cleaner, but I've found other advice saying not to. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Hi. Got this code on client’s vehicle. Already replaced the pedal assembly but code is still there. I am getting a delayed response when pressing the throttle. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Hey everyone! My stock EFI 280z has had a new problem recently, the car shudders on acceleration and idle.
When the car is idling, I’ve opened the hood and tried to pinpoint a clicking and where the sound is coming from. It seems to come from the throttle position sensor.
The car clicks, then the car shudders, and it goes back to normal. The clicking and shuddering happens often, every couple of seconds.
I opened the throttle position sensor but it seems to look fine and not corroded.
I’ve played around with various connectors and wires and nothing seems to fix the problem temporarily.
Any idea what’s wrong?
Man if you haven't replaced it, you need to NOW. My car feels brand new. What i thought was a spark or fuel issue, shuddering, hesitation, loss of power, and outright turd like behavior. In the end was this little guy and his partner Mr. MAP sensor. Changing those 2 made my GS-R feel like i just pulled it off the showroom floor. https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/throttle-position-sensor-tps/dorman-throttle-position-sensor-tps-911-753/964955_0_0
As you all know you can test a TPS to see if its failing. In my case its on a 2000 Acura Integra. I have good power and ground and was looking for .5v at closed to 4.5v at WoT. I discovered 2 dead spots at around 40% throttle and at around 60% which i knew was happening from driving the car. With a consistent fluid motion on the throttle by my assistant i noticed the voltage would move consistently by about .15 to .2 upwards as the throttle was pressed. Between 10% and 30% throttle i noticed the voltage was jumping by .3 to .4. to better put it into perspective it went as such. .5 .7 .85 1.2 1.5 1.9 then it went back to going up by .15 or so all the way to 4.5 at WoT. I repeated the test 4 times and each time it repeated the same. is this normal or is this a sign that its failing in that range as well?
Anyone gotten this code/remedied this issue? I’m thinking just replace the tps if I can find one..
What a difference it makes, the bike is so much more confidence inspiring at low speeds.
I ride an S model, and after practicing U-turns daily I would still struggle with them and mess them up sometimes because of how jerky the throttle was, the sensor was way off, only giving the bike fuel at around 4000 RPM (I think that's how it works, correct me if I'm wrong).
People talk about the bike having less engine breaking after the adjustment, and it's true there is less, but it's not as big a difference as I anticipated - it's still very noticeable, but it just means I actually get a chance to use my front brake before the engine braking culls all the speed.
Buy a size 25 Security Torx bit, make a dealer mode 'tool' with a bent paperclip, and go do it :D https://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=55459
