I have looked in some of the Dark Heresy books and haven't found anything on mechanical effects of purity seals. Does it exist anywhere in the RPGs rulebooks by FFG?
Hey folks. I’m trying to source the mechanical seal that sits between the crank case and the water pump impeller. I bought a used assembly on eBay for 100 bucks, but the seal was incomplete. I’m at a stand still until I can find one. It’s not listed on St Paul HD, but I’m gonna call them in the morning. Anyone else have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Have any of you ever had any luck re-using mechanical seals? I have a trashpump that currently isnt leaking, but boss man wants to save 500 bucks on the seal. I told him that its likely that it will not seal after changing out the impeller, but he persists and wont authorize my parts request.
The pump has been in service for 2 years without issue, and I can only assume that the stationary ring has grooved to fit the rotating face. I fear my only option is to lap the stationary ring... but i dont know that its even possible / economical.
Any thoughts?
I am looking to sell my Epomaker GK96S keyboard. It's brand new and the keyboard is sealed in the factory plastic. The box was opened once to take the pictures for this listing. This is a great keyboard that is hot-swappable, has bluetooth, and a number pad. Unfortunately, by the time it finally showed up, I had fallen too deep into the rabbit hole of mechanical keyboards. I have no use for this board anymore.
Here are the configurations of the board:
- White PBT case
- Gateron Black Mechanical Switches
It comes with...
- the keyboard (obviously)
- switch puller
- keycap puller
- blue keycaps (to replace the orange ones)
- Windows compatible keycaps (to replace the mac ones on the board)
- Two extra Gateron Black mechanical switches
The price is $115 Shipped with USPS Priority Mail
PM only. chats will be ignored
Status: Sold
Hi there, I am trying to decide the cooling coil and seal pot dimensions for a series of pumps' double mechanical seals and I couldn't find any useful data for the cooling water flow rate and pipe diameter. Pumps are at 1500 rpm and they mostly transfer NaCl solution at around 80 to 120'C.
Is there such a guide for deciding the seal pot and coil sizes (or cooling capacities)?
Note: for the budget, we will design and manufacture all seal pots in-house since seal manufacturers and API plans cost more than that.
My plan is to place a pressure controlled feed valve and a flow switch between the seal pot and the water booster battery, so it will keep the pot at the desired pressure if the pot level drops. Also will place a level switch, PG and cooling coil inside the pot.
Hello, I found out one of my callipers was sticking really bad (pads and rotor ruined). So i rebuilt it, changed piston(cleaned inside of piston too) , rubber seal, dust boot, boots(for slide pins). Also took out piston on other side and cleaned up and new dust boost. New TRW disc rotors and brake pads on both rear sides. Finally put everything together , went for a test run. Basically braking often to seat the brakes, on the way home hit the highway. Then at home testes the temperature of all caliper. Front were the same, checked the back one and first one was 50C and second one (original sticking caliper) was 110C. Which is insanely hot.
Got the car on jackstand , span the wheel and it moved as freely as it could. Did about 2 rotations by it self. So why was it hot if the piston wasnt sticking ? Any ideas ?
Its like the piston retracts but slowly, because the like i said the wheel span very freely. After alot of braking on the road.
However, when installing new the boots on the slide pins (on the sticking caliper) the slide pins require imense force to be put it. Which is not good, they are meant to slide in pretty easy. On the otherside i left the old dust boots on and the slide pins when in okay.
Im suspecting the new dust boots are the cause. They seemed way to tight. Could this be the issue ? Or any other things that could cause this ? I changed practically everything except actual caliper. Would appreciate some help, thanks in advance.
Hi everyone,
Looking for some help with a Sharn Campaign that I'm working on. The basic premise is that Lady Illmarrow believes that the Death Curse that infests Old Sharn is connected to her Dragon Mark, and so she is working to in secret to break the seal to Old Sharn.
Does anyone have any ideas for the mechanics of how this would work? I was thinking of having it involved House Cannith Technology and House Deneith Magic, since both houses were heavily involved in the War of the Mark, but I'm open minded as to other ideas.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Hello r/AskEngineers
I have an application I am developping right now that requires flushing a mechanical seal on over 30 mixers in different factories. The current design for flushing seals for such things in the factories I work for right now is very.. lets say rudimentary.
Want to start the pump/mixer? Open soft water valve and dump water in the mechanical seal and then on the floor. You can imagine the waste generated!!
My initial thought was to use a small reservoir with a pump and TIT + flow switch to ensure proper recirculation inside the seal to avoid running without lubrication but this is a lot of additional cost in both hardware, software, maintenance and spare parts compared to a passive thermosiphon.
I was thinking of using a standard thermosiphon unit for future cooling on mechanical seals like this one: https://www.huhnseal.com/products/1781/support-system
My main question about those passive systems is about reliability. What are the main points of failure to expect? Typical maintenance I assume will include flush and repriming once in a while.
How can I garantee proper monitoring of the flow through the seal to preserve the mechanical seal incase the system isn't working? My guess is a flowswitch won't work.
Finally, how effective are these systems from you experience?
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