Hi all, I've recently upgraded my table saw (DeWalt DW745) OEM blade to a Freud. It's great, except I can't use the OEM riving knife with the new blade, as the riving knife is 3/32 inch thick, while the Freud blade is thicker, at 1/8 inch, and I just don't feel that catapulting wood into my right kidney is my lifelong ambition. Does anyone know of a compatible 1/8 inch thick riving knife for my saw?
TL:DR, original riving knife is thinner than new blade, any ideas for compatible new riving knife?
A few months ago I changed crews and now have access to a track saw for the first time. So far I've been really impressed with it. One thing that strikes me is in the few years I've been doing carpentry I've never seen or used an on-site table saw that had the Riving Knife installed. I can see why in the case that you'd need to make plunge cuts on the table saw. Now, if you have a track saw is there any reason to make plunge cuts on a table saw and there by is there any reason not to have the Riving Knife installed? I'm interested in bringing this up with my boss but wanted to make sure I'm not missing something before I do.
Thanks.
Got a blade for my table saw, didn't realize it was a full eighth inch kerf and my riving knife is for 3/32nds i believe. Is this dangerous? I feel like it obviously wouldn't work the other way around, but wasn't sure about this scenario.
I purchased a Freud thin curf plade for my saw to replace the factor blade, but I noticed I sometimes get resistance when the wood pushes through to the riving knife. I'm wondering if there is a compatible riving knife to match the blade which I believe is 3/32.
Hey all. Probably a dumb "I should know better" question but here goes. My table saw has no riving knife and the splitter is integrated into the annoying AF blade guard that I don't like to use. Without using the blade guard, Ive noticed in addition to holding DOWNWARD, FORWARD, AND TOWARDS the rip fence pressure, I also need to reach behind the blade to hold the outfeeding piece against the fence when finishing a rip cut, otherwise the outfeeding piece seems to draft away from the fence / towards the blade. I'm obviously not a fan of this and I'm wondering if it's because I don't have a riving knife / splitter?
I had a post here about the WW2 blade on my table saw the other day. Just had another question I was curious about. The plate thickness on the blade is .090 and the riving knife thickness is also .090.
Would it be better to make a zero clearance insert and use a microjig splitter or do folks reckon I could still use the stock plate and riving knife?
TIA.
Just setup my father in laws old 3hp unisaw last week. It’s a beast, but doesn’t have a riving knife or guard or even a splitter and after tuning it up and squaring everything I’ve been happily ripping some hard maple down to get ready for some projects. Well a 8/4 maple board just kicked back at me hard enough to knock the wind out of me, and leave me cursing on the floor. I’ve got to guess it touched a tooth at the back of the saw and flung it back at me. I’m counting myself lucky that I’ve only got a golf ball sized lump and some loss of pride, but I’m ordering a splitter from lee valley right now, and investigating other safety options as well.
So I just bought a second-hand table saw and realized it didn't come with a riving knife or fence (Yeah basically useless)
I know from research this model does come with a riving knife and I have physically confirmed it has the place to put one. My question is; is it possible (And/or safe) to make one from scratch without having the original to trace from? Or should I just cut my losses and buy a better one (This one only cost me £20 so no massive loss)
I've also checked to see if I can buy the parts separately but everything bar a few bolts are obsolete and nowhere has any stock of them
It's a Delta 36-525 which is actually almost nonexistent on all of the parts sites
Thanks!
I got a good deal on a craftsman contractors table saw, it needed some love but has a place for a quick insert riving knife. Of course I cannot find one made for the saw, so I was going to try and 3D print one. Has anybody done this? I found very few designs online, but figured it’s not a super complicated part...TIA.
Hey everyone, my riving knife on my table saw is slightly bent. I keep my riving knife in the full extension position. So the part that is bent is past where the wood comes in contact.
I just bought this saw. Ridgid r4520
Not really sure if this is ok or not. Maybe someone can let me know. Thanks!
Hello People,
I recently acquired an old table saw (second hand) because I was sick of cutting my wood pieces with a circular saw and no support. The Table saw seems to work (I tried a small piece) but I don't want to start it without any additional protection such as.... a RIVING KNIFE ! I read a lot of horror story about the kick back, so for me it's a necessity ! Only problem, not sure if I can install one on this model, even more, I can't find any except on etsy, not sure why ?
Do you think I can ? Are Riving knife universal format ?
I'm open to any suggestions, advice, links, and so on.
Thanks !
https://preview.redd.it/kyyzktwsyo071.jpg?width=1249&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=72e13bb1488ff8ee0f194f861fa34a8b8f97623d
https://preview.redd.it/wcnxouwsyo071.jpg?width=1249&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c14f4de4ded1a5edf127603830662bfd4cb6c35b
https://preview.redd.it/t3sjxtwsyo071.jpg?width=660&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9954097021ad0f13b92eee6f7c5814b3aa7f1d9a
https://preview.redd.it/4qerxqwsyo071.jpg?width=660&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=190f69e9a98929ec71f90e29e5ad6937fa49bfa9
I been woodworking for a year and just been using handsaw for everything. I wanna to speed up my work but scared of the table saw as I am trying to be a dentist so my fingers are my money marker. Will a riving knife, gripper solve that problem ?
Hi, I have a rigid R4511 with a granite table, and it's hard to find parts for it since they discontinued it. I am looking for a riving knife that will raise and lower with the blade. Only price range is under $200. Thank you guys so much.
I have a KREG ACS Track saw that I’ve been using lately, but I noticed that the riving knife is not going smoothly into my cuts, and I sort of have to force it in. (Which sounds dangerous and not what a riving knife should do) Has anyone experienced this? I can’t find anything online about adjusting the riving knife correctly.
Hi all, I recently bought a used/like new table saw (DWE7491RS) that is missing the blade guard and riving knife. I'm going to purchase these components online and am trying to figure out if the riving knife is included with these two blade guard links:
or
Both of these (DWB-N272580) have a metal thing in the picture. Is that the riving knife or do I need to buy that separately?
I bought a used DWE7485 and didn't realize that there was a UK version as well. I found this out when I read the riving knife and saw that it was a different thickness than what's described in all the US instruction manuals.
I bought a thin kerf blade to use with the saw, but it's thinner than the UK riving knife, but it would work with the US riving knife. Am I okay to just buy the US riving knife and swap them out?
I have a table saw that doesn't have these safety features and I can't add it either (the clearance is a small crappy rectangle, I can't make one with a splitter, there isn't enough space). I've seen that there seems to be some people agreeing that safety comes from ourselves first and our concentration, thus they don't use these safety guards. But there seems to be much more people saying it is dumb to not use a splitter at least.
Is there a way to be safe without it? I know the basics of kickbacks, what else can I do to make it more safe? Is ranging on the side a good idea?
What about pushing more slowly? I know kickbacks happens too fast, would going more slowly make any difference?
I finally made the plunge for a table saw but really didn't do my research. I bought a Dewalt 8-1/4 in. Compact Jobsite Tablesaw. 8 1/4" blades seem rare in the higher tooth count, but I bought this 60 tooth from amazon and now I need a riving knife/splitter that will fit 0.079 kerf. The stock knife doesn't cut it and I haven't been able to find an alternative. Any good alternatives baring buying a properly sized table saw?
I just inherited a Ridgid table saw that's a huge upgrade from my crappy Ryobi jobsite saw. Huge, cast iron top, came with an Incra gauge and extended rails, integrated casters, the whole thing. The only problem is the saw is from I think the late 90s and does not have a riving knife. Is there such a thing as a retrofit riving knife that can be added? I've seen the Microjig splitters, but that only addresses the problem when working at 90 degrees, and wouldn't work with any bevel cuts.
I just got a new table saw, just your standard dewalt 10", I'm getting it all set up. Staring at the instructions and blade guard, anti-kickback pawls, riving knife, etc... then I actually read the instructions, they made a pretty convincing argument! Diagrams for feather boards! 🪶🔥.
My problem is I've literally never seen this shit attached to a saw on a job site. Like never. Been doing this 15 years. I know there is a literal army of home woodworkers and cabinet makers who will strongly suggest I immediately read up on this stuff, install it and also probably buy a sawstop.
I guess I'd like to hear from people who do regular remodels and production framers - is it normal not to think about using this stuff? Like, anecdotally I've never had any accidents, and if something feels sketchy I use some little custom cut pushsticks and push blocks and old timer gave me once and I've copied a few times. Safety glasses, yes. But never been injured or seen serious kickback injury, and only seen a board kickback maybe 3 or 4 times? Is everyone I've worked with crazy? Insanely lucky? Very stupid?
Discuss.
