So recently i came across a post that said that plastic cement or plastic glue is toxic and that some people have gotten allergic reactions to it. Now, I have been using faller plastic cement for a loooong time now and never noticed any side effects.
But my questions is, how dangerous is plastic cement? I have a good couple of plastic guys left and i need them done. Also, I usually only build 2-3 minis at a time, and I am sitting in the living room, which is the biggest room in my house. No gloves, no mask and no eye protection.
Also, are the fumes toxic when dry, since i sleep in the same room as the finished models?
I might be overthinking, but thanks in advance:)
I just got into the hobby and I've been using Testors brand plastic cement and it's been working great for the two devilfish and my pathfinders/fire warriors but I was trying to put together an XV9 battlesuit from forgeworld today and even after 45 minutes of drying, the cement wasn't holding any of the pieces together.
Is there a cement you guys would recommend specifically for forgeworld models?
I don’t like the citadel glue so I’m trying plastic cement. Do I apply the liquid to both sides of what I’m trying to glue together or just one side. I’m not sure if that’s important or not.
Been getting into this hobby as something for me to do for fun, since I am a huge Star Wars fan and have always liked the idea of miniatures. But I just have one question, super glue or plastic cement? What’s the difference between the two? Any tips would be appreciated, thanks!
Boards
Gamakay K61 - I bought this keyboard off of Banggood with the Gateron Black switches. I lubed about 10 of the switches with 205g0. Also lubed and clipped the stabs. The keyboard is in good condition. Asking for $40. Sold to u/j312311
1Up Underglow PCB with Gateron Black Inks - This was part of the first keyboard I built. I believe stabs are GMK screw in. The switches are lubed with 205g0, stabs are meh since it was my first keyboard and I had little experience. The PCB is a 1UP hot swap underglow PCB great for acrylic cases. Has a brass plate. Asking for $150.
Tofu60 Dark Blue - This was a keyboard I commissioned from someone I met on this sub. The case is an Aluminum Dark Blue Tofu60 with a DZ60 Solder PCB, Polycarbonate Plate, Tofu Stupidfish Foam, Durock v2 stabs, and DinoKeys mint switches. Switches are lubed with 205g0 as well as the stabilizers. The switches are soldered. Asking for $200. Sold locally.
Plastic 60 Board - I bought this keyboard off someone on mechmarket for $100 I believe. I think the case is a plastic case from KBDFans and the PCB is an FB60 hot swap. It has a brass plate with lubed Yellow Gateron Milky Switches. I'm not sure what the stabilizers are but they are also modded. Asking for $60. Sold to u/j312311
Black KBD67 Lite R2 in questionable condition - This board is also a commission like the Tofu60. It utilizes the KBD67 Lite R2 kit with Yellow Gateron Milky Switches lubed. Stabilizers are also modded. Board is hot swap with RGB. This board also started being weird after I received it and I'm not sure why, but I think a reflash would fix it, not guaranteed though. Basically, the left Windows key doesn't get recognized at all and left CTRL gets recognized as Caps Lock and Caps Lock gets recognized as left CTRL. Asking for $175.
Keycaps
Razer Phantom Keycaps - Bought for my Razer Blackwidow keyboard, but I liked the stock keycaps better. Basically brand new. Asking for $16 since they are on sale right now.
XDA White "Minimalist Style Japanese Keycaps" - Bought off Amazon and hardly used them since I didn't like XDA profile. Asking for $15. Sold to u/j312311
[Tai Hao Black/Red Keycaps 104 key](https://shop.tai-hao.com/products/-p
Just wanted to check they are plastic and not resin before I destroy something.
Begin with thoroughly cleaning the edges to be bonded, then apply the cement to the edges of the broken pieces, press the pieces together, proceed to wipe any excess off, and let sit overnight. In certain situations where the break is of a small surface area this will be a stronger fix rather then super glue or epoxy as this chemically “welds” the pieces together as opposed to typical glue.
Would like to trade outfit for helmet. The others would be cash and flux offers. Thanks
I have a bottle of tamiya thin and a bottle of tamiya thin quick set and I don't know if it messes up anything if I mix them, so I thought I'd ask here.
