So I have a 2002 ford explorer sport trac that has been dying at stop signs/red lights. It also idles super rough and when I try to accelerate quickly there's a few second pause before it reacts. Also makes a popping sound occasionally. Almost like a backfire but not as loud. Any ideas?
I wanted to ask what kind of muffler would make this thing sound nice. I don’t eat it super loud I kinda want a low grumble sound when starting up and cruising. I also don’t have too much money rn but with Christmas and my birthday soon it should be okay. Thank y’all.
Hello, I am in the market for a car(My first car purchase), and recently came across this 2000 Ford Explorer Sport Trac on craigslist. The car is listed as $2750 obo and has 195k miles on it. It appears to be in decent shape, although I have not seen it in person yet. The seller claims that it has no major issues. I only need a car for about a year and a half as I will be moving out of the country long-term, so I'm not looking for something that will last a lifetime. Is this a good price for the car, and what are some things I should look for when inspecting it in person? Thanks in advance for any help.
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I’m pretty sure the problem is the pcm, but if anyone has any other ideas then I’m interested. TLDR is at bottom.
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Background info:
I have a family member with a 2002 sport trac. I think the engine and transmission are out of some other ford with the same or similar powertrain (I don’t think that matters but I thought I would include that anyway).
At some point, the vehicle quit shifting into overdrive. Also if you get it up over 55 mph and then let off the gas for a second, the engine will disengage from the transmission. What I mean is, if I got it up over 55 or 60, then let go of the gas and hit the gas again, it would just rev until it gets back down to about 50 mph. So if you have the cruise control on and have to hit the brake, you have to turn the cruise control off immediately because the engine will rev way up.
My family member was told by a mechanic the problem was the pcm if I remember correctly. I don’t know why they never got the mechanic to replace it, but they didn’t. So now I’m trying to figure out how to do it myself.
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*TLDR: among other things, the sport trac isn’t shifting into overdrive.
1: does this sound like the pcm? Is this an expensive fix?
2: do I have to involve a dealer or any special equipment if I replace the pcm?
3: Are there different options for the pcm? I read something about getting different pcm’s for tuning purposes. While that sounds interesting and I would like to learn more about it, right now I’m just interested in getting one that makes it function the way it’s supposed to.
4: Could the issue be sometime else? Are there any other important questions you think I’m not asking.
5: can I buy/order this at a store like o’reilly’s, or would getting it on amazon be better?
Ps.... I didn’t know if electrical, transmission, engine performance or tuning would be a more appropriate flair
120,000 miles, automatic transmission, 4.0l V6
I thought it was a dead battery so l put the charger on it. The charger indicates that the battery is charged. I cleaned the battery cable connectors and the battery posts. When I turn the key I get absolutely nothing. No lights, no gauges move, nothing. I'm going to take the battery to the parts store to get it checked just to be sure, but it's only about a year and a half old.
Any ideas what to look at next?
Edit: I took the battery to the parts store where I bought it and they tested it. The battery was bad. They gave me a new one at no cost. The battery was only 2 1/2 years old and it failed.
My truck was leaking some oil, so I took it to the mechanic to replace the rear main seal. He explained it would be expensive ($550) because of all the labor involved with disconnecting the transmission to get the seal on place.
I picked up my truck and drove about a mile and noticed it was shifting hard (it's automatic) and sometimes it wouldn't change gears. The OD OFF light started flashing on my way back to him.
He checked the transmission fluid and added a full quart. I drove another mile. Same thing happening, no improvement. I took it back to him, fluid level is good, he hooked his computer to it and did some "transmission relearn" thing to it and told me to drive it more. I drove it about 2 miles, parked it. Then drove another 2 miles back to him. No improvement whatsoever. So I left it with him to figure out.
He's saying whatever is going on is probably purely coincidental and isn't a result of him having to disconnect/reconnect transmission for the seal replacement. I'm really finding that hard to believe considering I've never had any transmission issues and it's always shifted smoothly.
Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this? I really don't want to pay more money if this damage is from previous work the mechanic has done.
I have a small trailer camper, 3,300 lbs. I want to buy a used truck around $5,000-$7,000 to tow it around.
I found a 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac in good condition with around 125,000 miles. It looks like it's towing capacity is 5,000 lbs.
Would that be a good option? Would parts be easily available? Should I expect a lot of maintenance?
I will apologize in advance for the formatting and being long winded, but I want to make sure I explain my situation fully.
I have a 07 Ford Sport trac with about 94,000 miles. The check engine light came on several months back. I drove it like that for a few months until time to have it inspected. My mechanic said it’s showing the code for evap. He said to start with the gas cap, so we did and that wasn’t the problem. We then moved to the evap sensor and replaced it. He cleared the codes and it was back on in about 7 miles. He then tells me that he needs to do more research on it to figure out what to do next. So I just paid the penalty and reregistered it and drove it like it was. Fast forward a couple months and my transmission failed. Again the only obd code showing was the evap code. So we ordered a transmission from Jasper.
He installed the new transmission and at times it seems like it’s not shifting correctly other times shifts fine. I keep telling him that something is wrong, but every time I take it to him it’s working how it should. We go back and forth about it for the next couple weeks so I figure I have 3 year / 100,000 mile warranty so I’ll just drive it until it fails. Well sure enough after less than 2,000 miles it goes out. Again the only obd code showing it evap. He says that the clutch plates seized up.
He orders a replacement installs it. I go pick it up and within 20 miles the “Power train fault” light comes on. I take it back he’s had it for over a week now and says he now has to take it to the dealership and scan it. Says I’ll have to pay to have it towed there and scanned. To figure out if I need to replace the computer. I asked why it would be my responsibility, because the only light that was on when I dropped it off before he replaced both transmissions was the evap code.
He says that the computer was probably going bad and that’s what caused the original transmission fail, and that’s probably why the check engine light didn’t go off after he replaced evap sensor in the beginning. When I asked why the powertrain fault light wasn’t on until he replaced the second transmission. He said that the computer wasn’t completely gone until he plugged in the new one.
My question is, Does this sound like a reasonable explanation or could it have been something he did while replacing the second transmission that shorted out the computer?
Thank you Frustrated
I was driving, stopped at my friends house on a very steep hill and when i went to leave literally minutes later I shift it into reverse and when i press the peddle the engine revvs up but i dont move. I put it in every other gear trying them, same thing, it shifts, and the engine revvs but no moving. No check engine lights are on, the fluid level is fine, and i quickly looked at the shifting cable and it looks fine. My dad said to take off the starter and move the flywheel around and see if everything else moves and it dose so im hoping someone here will have something else i can check and my whole transmission didnt just go out. Also there is the FAINTEST ticking coming from under the car near the transmission that speeds up when i press the gas and was not present before the car trouble. That's all the symptoms and things i've checked. I know i've read about these trannys giving out around this milage and it is a 20 year old car so i know it could be major but i hope it is not. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
My cousin states he replaced the fuel pump relay and suddenly all lights quit working including interior lights and the throttle body and the egr started rattling and car wouldn’t start, what could’ve happened? The lights keep flickering, even when the door is opened the beeping keeps flickering with lights
