I have an oil boiler with an aquastat that controls the supply temp. It has thermostat terminals that are wired to my zone thermostats.
The boiler fires regardless if the zone stats are calling or not. It’s like it is ignoring those terminals and fires the boiler solely based on water temp.
Is this correct or is there something wrong with the aquastat? On warmer days when all zones will be off all day the boiler will continue to maintain supply water temp based on the aquastat. I know they make outdoor reset systems with warm weather shut off but I would think the thermostat terminals on the aquastat would prevent the boiler from firing if no zones are calling?
I had a home assessment today by our oil company and they suggested adding an Aquastat relay onto our boiler. Our home is heated through baseboards and they suggested it would reduce oil usage on mild days and the amount the boiler is firing, extending the life of our new Burnham unit. The cost would be roughly $500 - $700 to install for parts and labor.
Generally, do the experts here think that's a good use of money and worth installing?
Hello everyone!
Like many others, I've come to the conclusion that I need to run new thermostat cable in order for my Nest E to connect/charge properly. Currently I have 3 thermostats running W and R wires back to my oil fired, tankless, boiler providing baseboard heat. At the boiler I have 3 zone valves, a transformer and an aquastat 3150 with only a T/T output.
As far as I can figure out:
The one T connection goes to the C on the transformer, and the other side to each of the zone valves.
The zone valves are connected to the W on their respective thermostat, the common and hot on the Transformer, and the T on the Aquastat 3150.
The thermostats are connected to the hot of the transformer and the W on the respective zone valve.
My question (and I will likely need to provide pictures) is this:
Can I run the C wire on the new thermostat wire to the C input on the transformer? As far as I can tell that should complete the circuit to each thermostat and allow them to charge even when heat is not being called.
Sub-question: Voltage wise, am I could to murder the transformer by adding the 3 Nest E's? I've seen some stuff about adding relays but I'm not quite smart enough to figure out if/how that would help.
HUGE thank you for anyone brave enough to help.
I am trying to determine if my aquastat has a bad relay. Can anyone tell me what the resistance should be on the thermostat input? I am only getting 1 ohm which sounds low to me given the rating on the power thermostat (which did die and was only putting out 2.5V).
When everything is hooked up now, the zone valves open and the whole system acts like it resets closing the valves and starts all over again. I have checked through all the wiring and everything seems correct. If I leave the end switch side of the valves disconnected, they operate correctly. If I manually push the aquastat relay closed, the pump operates.
UPDATE: I realized from the circuit diagram that the 1k ohm resistance was the relay coil. Mine was measuring in only 1 ohm, so clearly it was fried and mostly shorted internally. I also learned that direct replacements are so expensive because it has been discontinued for several years now. I replaced with an L7224 model for about $60 and all is working again.
I have a Burnham Revolution 5 gas boiler with baseboard radiators in my house.
I just had a low water issue that was just a sticky inlet valve. As I was talking with a plumber I was told my honeywell aquastat was set too high. I have it set all the way up at 240F as I felt the heat coming out of the radiators was nowhere near what it was when we had the old oil burner.
He told me it should be set around 180ish which is what I am reading all over the interwebs.
My question is why the hell not set the temp limit as high as it will allow me to go? I feel like it takes long enough to heat the house at max temp and lowering it will take even longer. In fact sometimes when it is very cold, it can't really keep up at all.
What gives? Why would you set the temp lower when you have the ability to crank it up?
I cannot get my boiler to fire. I have ran a new 3 wire thermostat wire to the ecobee base. I have it wired like this:
TV (aquastat) - RC (Ecobee)
T (Aquastat) - W1 (Ecobee)
W/Z (Aquastat) - C
The stat turns on, configures and recognizes I have it connected to a boiler. When the room temp calls for heat the thermostat does not cycle the boiler to turn on. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
I’ve noticed lately that my boiler never seems to get above 140 degrees for the water temp: when I adjust the aquastat to below 140 it immediately shuts off but when I try to turn it up it never move any higher than 140. Anyway to test the aquastat to see if I need a new one. It was in the negatives yesterday and it couldn’t heat the house up higher than 60.
I have a Honeywell L8148E Aquastat Relay connected to my thermostat right now. The previous owner has a 3rd wire in the bundle which is not connected on either end. Would it be possible to connect it to the W or Z terminals on the L8148E and then the C terminal at the thermostat? I think they are supposed to be used for additional zone connections, but I don't have a need for that.
See the manual for reference: https://www.pexuniverse.com/uploads/docs/pdf/hw-60-2278-installation.pdf
I have an old Weil McLain 68 oil burning boiler and a Honeywell L8124a aquastat. We only use the boiler for our wall convectors, not for hot water. Is there an optimal setting for the Hi/Lo/Diff in this situation? Right now the high is set for 180. Since we don't use the boiler for hot water, could I just keep the low and diff at the lowest setting? Or should they be kept higher so the boiler doesn't get too cold between burns? We live in the Northeast, climate zone 6a. TIA!
For hydronic systems, is there a rule of thumb for whether or not an aquastat is needed?
In looking through the Navien typical application designs, it looks like they should be included in systems that are using one circulator to feed more than one secondary manifold. If that's right, are they unnecessary for systems that have a circulator for each secondary manifold?
I've been reading up on this subreddit all day, hoping the Ecobee experts can assist me in another install thread! The quick summary, I moved in to a new house that has:
- Weil-Mclain oil boiler
- Honeywell T&T aquastat
- 4 heating zones controlled with Taco 571 Zone valves
- A "zone" for the indirect water heater with another Taco Zone Valve
I created a diagram for reference. I think I got all the connections correct, but apologies in advance as it's far from professional: https://imgur.com/ZZHiDa4.
I have 3x Ecobee4 thermostats that I am looking to install into zones 1-3 highlighted in yellow. Each of these zones is currently connected to a Honeywell thermostat that uses 2 wires (R,W) and a R -- RC jumper wire.
All the wire nuts terminate in the same junction box, which also houses 3x clipped red wires that run to the thermostats for zones 1-3 but are unused (these are denoted by the red wires with the X on the end in the diagram). Which brings me to my questions:
- Can I use the existing 3rd wire to power the Ecobee or do I need a HW addition (Fast-Stat, transformer, signal relay, etc)?
- If I can use the existing wiring, where is the easiest place to hook in? Would I just get another wire nut and connect the 3x clipped red wires to the (-) transformer terminal?
- What connection setup do I use on the actual Ecobee?
Thanks in advance for any/all help!
i have this Honeywell L8148E Aquastat and an ecobee 5. Im looking at following option 5 here.
https://support.ecobee.com/hc/en-us/articles/227874667-Heat-only-2-wire-boiler-furnace-installations-for-ecobee-thermostats
I just want to confirm the wires i need to connect to the ecobee as displayed in the last picture here:
https://imgur.com/a/F6Q8sUX
the wire that is run from the thermostat to the aquastat is a 5 wire, with 3 unused. are there any other connections i should be making between the ecobee and the aquastat?
Hi guys
I have a small lab and I wanted to clean my waterbath, unfortunately I unscrewed a competent I shouldn't have and I can't seem to understand how to fit it back together as when I opened it, all pieces just fell apart
I can sort off get a gist of how it's meant to get back together but I don't understand why the long end would go into the second black box unit
I've attached some pics of what it comoenents it has https://imgur.com/gallery/3QUxDNy
Here is an overall idea I have, but why is there a spring there? Doesn't make sense
https://imgur.com/gallery/cerioPh
I've spent hours trying to figure it out but haven't reached a sensible place, would appreciate help!
I know it's a sunvic 2651609, but they don't manufacture them anymore
