It's finally time to prepare my first spoilboard and I'm not sure which way to go. What are some pros and cons of each type of spoil board for holding your work down? Which do you use and why? Thanks!
Do these work in a T-slot nut, or do you have to use a fixture plate?
G'day,
I've noticed that quite a few manufacturers of flare nuts have been including a slot in the thread which is presumably more expensive and so I figure it must provide a benefit of some kind...
I have seen it in "frost free" flare nuts before (which have holes in the shoulder for moisture to escape in cold applications) and had assumed it was to assist with moisture escaping from the threaded side, but I'm seeing it in flare nuts designed for pressure controls etc which are never going to be installed in cold locations.
My best guess is to assist in cutting the thread when installed - removing any residue oils / grease / debris that may otherwise cause a hydraulic lock when they are being tightened?
I've tried Googling the answer but haven't quite figured out what this is even called to get a decent result.
Does anyone know what this thread style is called, and what the benefit is?
1/4" short barrel flare example:
https://i.imgur.com/PMeylRx.jpg
I ordered the fanatec hand brake and want to mount it to the shifter, but I lost the t-slot nuts that came with it. Does anyone know the size I could just track down a replacement?
Hi! I'm trying to assemble a 5015 Petsfang that I printed the parts for.
I was following this video showing how to assemble and mount it on a CR-10S (that's the printer I have), but now I'm stuck on this part (note the timestamp): https://youtu.be/75Jxbec5whE?t=131
I'm having a lot of trouble fitting the M3 nuts in the slots as shown in the video. Even using pliers I have to push ridiculously hard to get them into place, and even then some just won't budge past a certain point. There's also one slot that's too deep for my pliers to fit.
I measured both the M3 nuts and a few of the (outsides of) the slots using calipers, and it seems like there is still about 0.2-0.3 mm of tolerance there. I guess perhaps not all the way through.
I took some pictures of the issue and uploaded them to an album here: https://imgur.com/a/dxWoiQN The Simplify3D factory file and GCODE I used can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DXZ_e0rkk-j2dzIU0aseJqk-AGQ6jotN?usp=sharing Printed using ColorFabb PLA/PHA Standard Black.
Has anyone else had this issue before? Is there another way to still get the nuts in, or perhaps different print settings I could try?
I've looked through everywhere that has them, and I can't find any info. Here's the McMaster page for them:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#Tooling-Component-T-Slot-Bolts http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-table-t-slot-nuts/=14ikkaw
I'm doing an upgrade of my CNC machine, and a few machine screws, and 4 tiny t-slot nuts didn't get included, but I'd rather not wait a month for them to arrive from the US. Anyone know where I can get just a few of these? (or where it's cheap enough I won't care about getting spares)
So i was getting 160-200 fps in valorant on medium settings and now i get 80 fps suddenly. No the vsync is not on and i tweaked around the the nvidia panel and i have set valorant as high performance still no change. Can anyone please help me? Thank you! :)
I tried disabling full screen optimization i got like a 10 20 fps boost for one game then poof back to 80. The igpu mode is off and turbo performance is on.
This is the only dead note on the whole guitar.
So, I've seen this regularly over on guitar... don't bury the string in the nut slot -- only half of the string should be in the nut slot. Okay, except every that EVERY guitar I have ever touched (minus uncle Floyd's brown rose) have had the first 3-5 strings buried into the nut. The 6th string may stick out above the nut by MAYBE half, but the others are more than 1/2 buried and the thinner strings are really buried. So, is my luthier doing it wrong? Or is the advice actually wrong?
Hey guys, I'm the guy with the "truss rod" problems that posted here recently.
So after a day of screwing around with the truss rod, I realised the truss rod might not be the reason of my fret buzz.
Then I remembered the guy who sold the guitar to me said something about him replacing the original Tokai nut with a Gibson nut. Also, my action is lower near the nut, but higher on the 12th fret and up, so that is also a good indicator the nut slots are too deep, but then again, I'm no expert.
I loosened the low E for some reference, and took a few pics:
https://www.imageshack.us/i/pmhoLqo2j
https://www.imageshack.us/i/pm8UEWGJj
Edit: Also, judging by the scrapes on the nut, and pencil marks in the slots it looks like this guy messed around with it. Probably also filed it.
Hello!
One of my guitars is a Warmoth Stratocaster clone with a compensated Graph Tech TUSQ XL nut, which I learned from Warmoth was cut for standard light strings (10-46), with which the instrument is strung. I'm fairly certain that I've stretched the strings properly, but I've noticed that large bends tend to leave them flat. Fluttering the trem arm returns the strings to tune, and I've read that this suggests the string may be binding in the nut, which I thought should be unlikely considering the material from which the nut was made (which is intended to be self-lubricating).
My thought now is that, since the strings are only just the gauge for which the nut was cut, they might only barely be fitting and therefore might be binding as a result. That in mind, I'm considering widening (but not deepening) the string slots, maybe to standard medium gauge string widths (11-49), such that the strings might not be fitting quite so snugly, and therefore might have a bit more freedom to return to pitch after large bends.
As this would be a one-way ticket, I wanted to reach out to a knowledge base more knowledgeable than I. Would you think that this might be a good solution and, if not, are there any other avenues you'd suggest I explore?
In a game mode like Slayer, having 2 bots on your team that each go 0-10 further widens the gap between you and the other team as the bots essentially become fodder as easy kills. Not only does this make losing feel more frustrating, but it also perpetuates a cycle of new players joining and then leaving once they see the difference in score.
Two different proposals to address this:
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In Slayer, leave vacant spots empty until new, real players join.
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Scale the skill level of the bots to the players currently in the game. Surely it's possible to take a 'best guess' based on current accuracy and ELO/TrueSkill ratings.
If you are doing NoFap (abstaining from masturbating all year round), good for you, I hope you have a fun time and good luck on your journey. HOWEVER, don't use it to guilt or try to convince our Cumrades from No Nut November to start NoFap! This is purely a for-fun challenge, we don't need to see you brag about how abstainance has made you a better person or not, nor do we care about its supposed benefits. We are just here to have a good time, share some memes, and challenge ourselves.
I want to put a set with a .64 gauge low on my guitar. Will my nut need filing? Are metal guitars generally built with wider nut slots so that heavier strings fit? The guitar in question is a Solar S2.6
