Is my gateway basically dead? Or is my ATT hub having an issue?
I'm FTTP, also
I also pulled and replugged the yellow-with-green-tip cable to see if that fixes it and nope.
(I have U-Verse so TV is also out. π )
Hey everyone, I was struggling with this issue for awhile since buying a couple finestra miners. With calchip support being super backed up and not very helpful i had to pop open a couple and start getting to work. Luckily i found a couple other posts from learngeek and BetNew569 which posted other great solutions for getting passed this issue that im sure lots of people have had.
A little backstory + the problem: I bought 5 finestra miners, 2 of the 5 worked and the other 3 failed during the set up process with an error that was something like "Failed to assert location, please try again". After failing, the miners never again showed up on bluetooth no matter how many times i turned them off and on, and also no matter how many times i pressed the bluetooth button, nothing was working. I emailed finestra support around maybe december 15, we had some back and forth, they stopped emailing back entirely since maybe the 24th of december and so i had to take this into my own hands.
What i found out: After spending a lot of time looking stuff up and comparing the finestra files to a normal helium image , i figured out that they were pretty different which is why one of the other reddit solutions which involves using a normal helium image i wasnt such a big fan of because you lose some of the functionality of the finestras. Finestra internally use BalenaOS for their raspberry pi's and use a base image for raspberry pi 4 (64 bit) from here . A good chunk of what comes in a finestra and whats in the base image of BalenaOS is the same, mainly the differences being in the config.json file inside of the SD card of the finestra. Theres also a folder called overlays which has small differences between the 2 but im not sure exactly what they are since there are a lot of files. The contents should look similar to this.
What to do:
- This will involve popping open your finestra from the back and sliding out the SD
The second you turn your back they start the fade.
Hello there :)
I might be new to the group but I do have a question :D
I am pretty new to arduino coding, so I guess that that is where at least part the problem lies.
my plan is to have a "physical" switch option to run either (1)ambibox or (2)a solid white or (3)a 50%white on my ws2801 controlled by an arduino.
I am doing this selection via digitalRead for LOW on digitalpin 2,3 and 4.
The two Solid / 50% white light options do work fine, but if I want to switch to the ambibox code I have to restart the arduino. after that ambibox also works fine.
I am doing this as ambibox is running on my "private" pc, when switching to my "office" pc I do not have ambibox avaliable but I do want the led stripe as a white backlight for the monitor.
I know that the original code was located in the void(setup), this is the point where I am lost, I moved it to void(loop) to have it as an option for an if statement, but this does not work as expected..
can someone help me to get the ambibox code into a state where I can addres it with a if statement?
my code so far:
thanks a lot in advance :D
I did not get any response in any support tickets I opened in the last 1 week. I was kind of frustrated and I did my own research and worked on it for around 1 hr to get it fixed.
Here are the solution steps you need to follow:
- Carefully pop open the back cover using the knife.
- You will see 2 screws on the motherboard which has the ethernet connection.
- You can remove that piece of the motherboard by pulling it slowly up after unscrewing those 2.
- You will see 3 more screws to the base piece of the motherboard. Unscrew those and take out the base motherboard from the box a little bit so you can connect to the ethernet.
- Attach both motherboards outside the box as it was attached inside the box.
- Now you can connect your device to ethernet with your router.
- Since you connected the network it will update the device for a couple of minutes and then the light will start blinking to blue & green. This means it is in pairing mode now. If not click the device black button twice after a couple of minutes.
- Open the Helium app on your cell phone and search your device. You will find your device on your phone now.
- Select your wifi network name and provide your password. It will be connected.
- Now you will have to wait around 5-7 minutes, the blinking light will stop and it will be turned into Green.
- You are all set.
- Now disconnect the ethernet cable and recycle the power of your device on wifi.
- It will turn into paring mode itself in a minute if not click twice the black button on the device.
- The light will start blinking to blue & green. This means it is in pairing mode now.
- Open the Helium app on your cell phone and search your device. You will find your device on your phone now.
- Check your wifi network name will be there already.
- Again wait around 5-7 minutes, the blinking light will stop and it will be turned into Green.
- You are all set.
- Now power off and put the base motherboard back on the box and put those 3 screws back.
- Then carefully connect the upper motherboard to the base using male and female connectors on the motherboards and put those 2 screws back.
- Close the back cover.
- Now pair your device with wifi using steps 12-17 steps
Here is the link to see how it looks from inside:
Note - You don't need to cut the device box to connect to the ethernet cable. This is my own research to avoid cutting the box. Al
... keep reading on reddit β‘
My mouse was working fine until last night. I started PC today and the mouse buttons weren't registering, however the cursor moved fine and the cursor triggered hover over UI element animations.
I plugged it in to charge it since the three side lights were red and it didn't fix the problem. I flipped the little blue/red switch on the bottom of the mouse and that's when things really went wrong. Suddenly, all the lights went out and the mouse stopped moving.
Using my keyboard to navigate, I checked the device manager and the mouse was shown as "HID Compliant Mouse". I thought it must be a driver issue so I used this installer https://www.drivers-logitech.com/logitech-g502-lightspeed-wireless-gaming-mouse-driver/ to reinstall the driver. At the end of the process, the application said something like "A critical error was encountered, please press OK to retry."
Of course, that page was impossible to navigate since I guess the devs didn't think people would use the installer with a keyboard only? So I decided to hook my mouse up to my Macbook Pro. I installed the MacOS driver. For about 10 minutes, nothing happened.
While I was writing my original post, suddenly the logitech logo on the mouse lit up and flashed alternating red and green solid lights (around 500ms per flash). I can't find any information on this behaviour, but I assume this is some sort of error code?
Does anyone know what's going on?
I can't help but think these mice are designed to die just after they're out of warranty. My first G502 proteus spectrum died a month after the two year warranty ended. And this lightspeed died 13 days out of warranty. If I have to replace this mouse now, I will not be buying Logitech again.
Edit: Here's a video of the mouse blinking https://youtube.com/shorts/avV5VJlTuvU?feature=share
Update: I unplugged the mouse and now it's flashing red only at the same alternating speed as before, without the green lighting. This appears to be the same problem as this post, but no answers there. Plugging it back in makes it flash red and green again as shown above.
Hello,
Price Range: Price is not the most important factor. Anywhere from 0-150USD will do. I'm based in Europe/Scandinavia so US only products are not an option for me.
Purpose: What I'm looking for the most is a flashlight that has a effective blinding light. Such as self defense use or just a tactical use. Strobe is a must. Regarding throw and spread of the light this is not a priority. Something that can disorient of a person in front of me is the goal. I've owned flashlights up to 850lumen so that is the mark I'm looking for. Around 1000lumens but the more the merrier.
Size: Something that can fit in my jacket pocket. Nothing too big that needs a holster or cant be carried on person. Nothing small that can fit on a keyring for example. It should sit nice in the hand without being too bulky, not looking for a huge lantern spotlight type.
Main Use: Something that can be carried and give a good amount of light in terms of lumens. Something that can be blinding to another person. "Defensive/tactical" use.
Switch Type: Does not matter
Anything Else?:
I have looked at the Sofirn SP31 and Sofirn SP35. Both seem nice, perhaps leaning more towards SP35, but I'm not too sure if it is too heavy or big. The SP31 though has more information written about it here on forums for example, but I'm wondering how bright it is compared to SP35. I've also seen the Acebeam T36 but unfortunately it is not available for me.
Before finding this forum I was drawn to the Led Lenser P7R or even OLIGHT Seeker 2 pro. So those kinds of lights in terms of size and lumen output.
So big question is, does anyone recommend either SP31 or SP35, or does anyone have something completely else to recommend?
All help is much appreciated!
hi all
got some issues with my rog strix 3060.
-
First issue which im not sure is an issue. There is a solid red light above power connectors as soon as its plugged into PCI slot but disappears as soon as the power is connected (normal?)
-
RGB wont light up on gpu, i dont think its a software issue because ive tried all the tricks posted online, it doesn't come up on start up and the tried with armory software (nothing is clashing). I have also tried unplugging and resetting power
any help appreciated
A few days ago my pc started showing issues like freezing, BSOD etc. Right after these issues when I tried to reboot my pc, it couldn't pass the solid orange DRAM light .The fans were all running at high speed and the RGB lights were also lit. When I switched the RAM slots it started working again. But in a few hours BSOD & my pc again got stuck in solid orange light. Then I tried with single ram. The pc successfully booted & I did Windows Memory Diagnostic on that RAM. But there were no errors. Then I tried to boot my pc with the other RAM only. But it got stuck in solid orange light. So I almost confirmed that ram's faulty. I removed that RAM & tried to boot my pc again with the other RAM (which had no errors in Windows Memory Diagnstic). But this time it also got stuck in orange light π. At this point, how do I confirm if the issues are because of faulty RAM or not ? And will this have anything to do with my BIOS ? I think the BIOS automatically got downgraded to a very old version. But I don't know how π
Mine is a 2 year old system. In all these years the things I had to sent for RMA were my PSU (Corsair RM750x) & 1TB SSD (Crucial MX 500). My other specs include: Ryzen 9 3900x processor Asus TUF Gaming X570 Plus (Wifi) Mobo Msi gaming x Trio Geforce RTX 2070 Super Graphic card Gskill tridentz neo 32 GB (2x16GB RAM) 3600 Mhz CL 16-19-19-39 1.35v By default the RAM were only running at a very low frequency (only 60% of promised frequency), so I had to use a DOCP profile. The RAMs were placed in A2, B2 slots. When I did the single ram testing it was probably in A2 slot (in the farthest slot from CPU). I have also been using multiple softwares to turn of the RGB light (I had to resort to these softwares because of work related reasons, causes these lights were sometimes a distraction & moreover im not a fan of RGB lighting, but I had no other option when I bought them)
My psu died on me a while ago so I got a new one and a new case. Iβve finally got around to putting it together today but the motherboard and ram sticks show no signs of life except for an orange light on the dram qled. Everything else seems to power on normally. Iβve tried switching ram sticks, only using one, cleaning them and the ram slots and still nothing. Iβm not sure if my psu shorted my motherboard, if I broke it while installing it, or something else. Does anyone have any ideas?
Motherboard- tuf gaming 570x
Gpu- 3060 ti
Cpu- ryzen 7 3700x
Psu- rm850x
Case-4000d
Ram- 2x8 Corsair vengeance
