Need advice getting a seized pin out. I don’t have the option to heat the surrounding area and the only other option is cutting it.

I'm looking at aftermarket brake levers for a brake caliper kit that I ordered from China and do not have it yet so I cannot break it down and measure the caliper or piston diameters or anything, and communication with the seller is not great so I will not be able to ask.

Do I need to worry about the size of the lever's piston? The one I have in my amazon cart has a 17mm piston.

Thanks for any advice!

Hello All,

I’ve been going through this presentation (https://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy07osti/40848.pdf) and I have been scratching my head to understand what parameters were controlled/held constant in the calculation of the heat transfer coefficient vs hydraulic diameter plot (Slide - 10). The paper published by the same authors doesn’t offer any additional clarity.

What am I missing here?

Cheers!

I have a bunch of olive & barbs for Shimano BH90 hose (5.0mm OD, 2.1mm ID). I’m wondering if they’ll work with Jagwire hose (5.0mm OD, ???mm ID). Anyone know?

Also, how about with SRAM stealth-a-majig fittings?

Hope to get an answer.

I'm looking to buy some bulk hydraulic hoses to keep in my home workshop, and I can't seem to find a clear answer on hose interoperability.

Currently, I have Shimano XT BR-M8000, Shimano RS785, Formula R1, and Guide RSC hydraulic brakes. In short, my question is: do all of these brakes share the same hydraulic hoses?

I believe the answer is yes as long as the inserts are correct.

The "universal" hose in most cases has an outer diameter (OD) of 5.0mm and internal diameter (ID) of 2.1mm

The XT's use the BH90 hose, which has an OD of 5.0mm and ID of 2.1mm.

The RS785s use the BH59 hose with OD 5.0mm and 2.5mm ID (I think? can't find this answer, just know it's slightly larger than the BH90), however many have reported using the BH90s without issue.

The only deviation I can find are Tektro and Hayes brakes that use hoses with 5.5mm OD and 2.5mm ID.

How would I go about calculating this? The standard equation is DH = (4*Area)/Perimeter for a single orifice.

With multiple orifices in parallel, I tried just using combined area and perimeter but the rest of the results show that is definitely not correct.

Found this which talks about parallel orifice resistance in Lohms but I already have the Cd of the restriction, just need the DH... Any ideas?

I am trying to simulate flow inside a dog's nose. I need to calculate the Hydraulic Diameter at different cross sections. I am using CFX 15, I calculated the area using the built in area function but I am having trouble calculating the perimeter.

Does anyone know how to calculate perimeter of complex cross sections? i.e. (http://imgur.com/HUo6mC0)

Thank you

Pump head is defined as the height of a water column produced by the discharge pressure of a pump, so it is therefore analogous to the discharge pressure. What I don't understand is how the head is independent of the size of that column of water, i.e. it's not a column of water with a diameter of 1 foot; it's any sized column of water. Wouldn't the diameter be important, since there's more mass being elevated by the pump?

I would like to connect a motor to a hydraulic pump. Their respective splines have the following standards:

Motor Spline: ANSI B92.2M 6h(shaft)/6H(coupler) --> class 6

Motor Coupler(Internal Spline) Info

Pump Spline: ANSI B92.1 6h(shaft)/6H(coupler) --> class 6, and also it is noted as SAE-C 14 tooth 12/24.

Coupler Section View

There was an available coupler CAD model(no drawings) for just the Pump shaft, I am not too sure what the internal ring groove is for.

What I did was try to model the internal motor spline(obviously not very accurate) coupler and combine it with the pump coupler. I also made a ring groove on that side as well just like the pump side...

I don't have much experience in designing and manufacturing and have some questions:

1. I know the required torque 150Nm continuous(250max) and 1500rpm is required for both ends. What kind of approach(resources)/calculations should I take when designing? I know for sure there are stress calculations to check with the factor of safety. Eg: how to determine minimum coupler length/diameter...
2. When providing a drawing to a manufacturer, do the spline drawings need to be 100% accurate? Or just need to specify the shaft standards and they should know how to produce them?
3. For the internal motor spline: The minor diameter 23 mm(dedendum) is greater than the base diameter 20.78 mm, which makes it hard to model the spline, most tutorials have base dia > minor dia. Is this common?
4. Are there off-the-shelf coupler products for these kinds of connections?

If you have any insights please comment below, would be very helpful~

Hi everyone,

today we have revealed our first product launch of 2022: XMG OASIS.

Yes, this is going to happen right now!

https://preview.redd.it/rsx9ua0i1w981.jpg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a1c0e613cea2cd34ea586301834d2e247c03f27d

Powerful and Unique

In some of our launch material, we will use the claim World's first portable Liquid Laptop Cooling.

Please don't put too much stake on the "portable" aspect in this title. We are mainly using it as a foundation for the "World's first" claim. :-)

What really makes XMG OASIS stand out:

• This is a serious solution that will make XMG NEO 15 run much cooler and more quietly without costing or weighing a ton.
• This is a modular solution that will not be a one-trick pony case study, but a product that you can actually buy and that is supposed to remain compatible with future laptops.
• This is going to be a reliable solution that has many of XMG's finger print inside - we have a lot of experience with water cooling solutions in Desktop PC and we know how to avoid the usual stumbling blocks (such as galvanic corrosion).

But also, keep in mind:

• This will not be a product for literally everyone. Water Liquid is very effective, but it can also get messy - especially if you want to switch between mobile and stationary usage a lot. You will have to want to arrange yourself with both the privilege and the responsibility.
• This will not be a product that will make your computing experience dead silent. You will massively reduce your laptop fan noise and temperatures, but the cooling solution will also have some operating noise itself. We try to convey the acoustical experience in the unboxing video linked below.
• This is a product that is catering to people who are confident that they will now how to use it. Those will be people who take great care whenever they disconnect and drain the laptop and whenever they refill the product. Our ideal customer will make sure to avoid any leaks, contamination and water damage from their usage. Hint: water damage is not covered by warranty.

XMG OASIS will be Made in Taiwan.

Technical Specs - XMG OASIS

I’m building my first rig right now and as of now I have a GT lite seat and mounting system, soon to be ordering the csl dd 8nm (and if the pre order is a super long time I’m going to get the csl elite), and I don’t know what pedals to get.

Ofc I WANT a load cell set but it is very unlikely at the price and I also want something that will be able to heel toe well. Any suggestions? THANKS AHEAD OF TIME :)

Le F-14

I'll go first

1. Add an AESA radar building upon the AN/APG-71s capabilities.
2. Updated cockpit avionics like MFDs like the F-14D did but to a larger extent or touchscreen panels like in the F-35.
3. TPOD integrated into the forward weapons pallet fairings.
4. Compatibility with more modern short range missiles like AIM-132 ASRAAM and AIM-9X.
5. Compatibility with more modern Medium Range missiles like AIM-120 AMRAAM and future missiles.
6. Produce a true Phoenix replacement missile. Probably something between the diameter of the Phoenix and AMRAAM, with a more AMRAAM sized warhead that allows more space for the motor and future upgrades to guidance components. SM-6 style fins would probably be a good idea too.
7. New weapon pallets with integration for large amounts of AMRAAMs. in the forward two phoenix positions a specialized pallet could probably pull an F-22 and stagger the hardpoints on small trapezes to fit at least 5 120s or 10 SDBs.
8. strengthen the wing box using more modern construction techniques and alloys.
9. replace the wing sweep hydraulics with linear electric motors.
10. Up-engine the plane with an F135 engine variant.
11. integrate JHMCS.
12. Add the leading edge extensions from the ST-21 proposal
13. Incorporate RCS reduction techniques like the Superbugs did
14. Use a HAVE GLASS style radar absorbing paint.

Time Stamp https://imgur.com/yqeGZJZ

Rec-PM2

I believe I am the second owner. I won it over on Raffle. Would like to say LNIB but cant due to the lanyard tube being switched from the stock black to a blue titanium one. He did a masterful job but the stock black one is included if you would like to switch it back. This one is 204P steel and the action is as good as it gets on a PM2. Box, stickers and all goodies included.

SV- $225 SOLD

Not interested in trades right now. Knife will ship USPS priority

PP G+S

VID https://imgur.com/MYaLzF0

https://imgur.com/a/4sKyMXG

Time Stamp https://imgur.com/yqeGZJZ

Arcform Catalyst

LNIB

The scales dont even show any sign of patina yet. Opens with a solid Thud and closes with a couple of light shakes. S35VN blade with ceramic bearings. Got this guy second hand in the original box but didnt come with paperwork. Not sure if there was ever any. Great, solid knife.

SV $160.00 SOLD

No trades at this time. Knife will ship USPS Priority

PP G+S

https://imgur.com/a/wok0zCq

VID https://imgur.com/LZchjza

Time Stamp https://imgur.com/PYRYani

ProTech TR-4.3 Espresso limited

If anyone can figure out to keep matte DLC or the espresso DLC on the blade from looking smudgy/finger printy let me know. LOL. This is one hell of an auto and it fires like an absolute beast. This has the limited espresso colored blade and MOP fire button. Edge appears to be factory and blade is perfectly centered. Would totally keep this one except for my OCD kicks in on how the coatings on the scales and the blade are impossible to keep pristine. Based on the PVD there are minor snails on both side of scales. Hopefully the pics will show my lack of creativity. No snails on blade, only prints/smudges. Comes in original box with paperwork and added packing.

SV $160 SOLD

No trades at this time. Will ship USPS priority

PP G+S

PS- please know your state and local regarding autos and purchase accordingly.

VID https://imgur.com/Ri54zVq

https://imgur.com/a/fEJ3m5H

Timestamp [https://imgur.com/yqeGZJZ](https://imgur.com/yqeGZ

1-3D Printed Guns that works with electric and shoots sharp plastic

2-Smart Guns that has aim assistance, finger scanning and few other features

3-Normal, Old Guns

4-Magnetic guns that works with coil system

5-Scrap Guns that are made from homemade materials and slightly better from plastic guns

6-Futuristic Gryojet guns that are much better than their prototypes

7-Needle guns that are very silent and often coated with venom

8-Lightning Guns that shoots focused lightning

9- EMP Grenade – A grenade that emits a short range ElectroMagnetic Pulse, (EMP,) which disables any electronics within a 50 meter radius, for one minute .This will of course include disabling cybernetic implants.

10- Thump gun: Fires large slugs that explode multiple times a few inches before striking the target, causing massive internal shock and concussions due to the shock waves created.

11- Shrapnel launcher: similar to a shotgun but with the pellets being released a short while after traveling as a single slug, causing maximum damage to the target and increasing range.

12- Stun gun: each "bullet" contains a hypercharged micro battery that can stun targets similarly to a taser, but without the downsides of short range and low accuracy.

13- Cement launcher: fire a hose of quickly hardening polymer to incapacitate targets.

14- Blades - Knife, machete, sword, hatchet, etc. Mods: chainsaw edge / electrified / heated / monomolecular edge / poisoned

15- Blinding Flasher - Just a light. It flashes extremely brightly blinding anyone in the area

16- Drones - mini-flying robots armed with guns, chemical sprayers, or a micro-missile. May also be suicide drones armed with bombs

17- Chemical Sprayer - Loaded with: acid / knock out gas / liquid nitrogen / napalm / poison / rapid hardening foam / steam

18- Cybernetic Claws - Claws on hands or feet. Mods: electrified / heated / poisoned / retractable

19- Cybernetic Detachable Finger Joint Bombs

20- Cybernetic Finger Garrote - 1st finger joint pulls out revealing a garrote wire

21- Cybernetic Forearm Blades - "Wolverine" style blades. Mods: electrified / heated / poisoned / retractable

21- Cybernetic Harpoon - "Mortal Combat: Scorpion" style harpoon shoots from palm. Mods: electrified / heated

22- Cybernetic Hydraulic Ram Fist

23- Cybernetic Hypo Injector - Injects a drug or toxin into the victim. Can be installed in any cybernetic part where you are likely to touc

Do your worst!

I want to make a press that can imprint names into copper disc 50mm in diameter and about 3mm thick not just names but patterns too , like animals or drawings depending on what the person wants, but I want it to be embossed if that makes sense kind of like a coin how if that makes sense so like the heads and tails of a coin how they are kinda 3d , but instead it will be whatever the person wants like there custom work , I plan on using the cnc machine at my shop to engrave the pattern into a die with a negative engraving so when the coin is pushed into it with a hydraulic press it will maleate into the said the pattern , essentially a coin but with whatever people want on it , i have made little collar tags for pets and also badges but never something like this , if I could have some advice it would be much appreciated

I'm surprised it hasn't decade.

For context I'm a Refuse Driver (Garbage man) & today I was on food waste. After I'd tipped I was checking the wagon for any defects when I spotted a lone pea balanced on the lifts.

I said "hey look, an escaPEA"

No one near me but it didn't half make me laugh for a good hour or so!

Edit: I can't believe how much this has blown up. Thank you everyone I've had a blast reading through the replies 😂

It really does, I swear!

Hi guys, I have a design-related question for any hydraulic/hydrology minded folks. The question is regarding equalizer pipes in off-line stormwater detention storage.

This hydrocad link has a good picture for what I'm referring to:
https://www.hydrocad.net/chambers/offline.htm

We have done a few designs like this where we have a drop basin with a metering orifice, and the flows can "back-up" into the storage chamber, via the equalizer pipe.

My question is: How big does that equalizer pipe have to be, relative to the storage pipe diameter? We are assuming that the equalizing occurs instantly, but I don't know if that's a safe assumption.

For example if we have a 48-inch diameter storage pipe, does it really equalize that quickly between the drop-inlet and the storage pipe, if we are using a 6-inch equalizer pipe connecting the two? (connection is made at the bottom of the storage pipe).

I know theoretically that the best hydraulic results will occur when the equalizing pipe is as close as possible to the detention storage diameter. But I'm trying to gain a practical sense of what is functional and safe to assume.

I have done some research elsewhere but didn't find anything concrete. Thank you in advance

I passed WRE this October 21. I don't consider myself the smartest engineer. I know the exam is moving to CBT, but this advice should still hold true. My strategy: 0) School of PE is good for breadth, not as good as EET for WRE depth. You can buy the courses a la carte. School of PE is missing crucial material for easy problems in economics and transportation.

1. Phuck morning structural questions. Don't even attempt unless they are a simple beam, reaction force determination, zero force member, or truss gimme problems. They take forever to do otherwise.
2. Ace every other section in the morning (34 questions). From what I've observed, the pass score hovers a little above 55 - 58. You can miss all the structural questions and still only need half of the afternoon to pass.
3. Start the test ranking questions (3-hardest to 1-gimme). The time this takes is worth the time you save and the benefit of getting more questions done towards a passing score. They all are weighted the same. A 9-minute structural question yields the same points as a 1-minute transportation question. Do all easy questions first. The morning section is 20 conceptual questions, 20 calculations questions.
4. conceptual questions may not necessarily mean they are the easiest. Some of the calc questions with the right formula can take less than 2 minutes.
5. don't mess up simple algebra and miss a problem. The test has answers that would mimic simple mistakes in the answer bank. The CASIO calculator allowed can actually solve equations for you. Just write the formula with the right input and have it solve for X (the needed term). Learn to use it.
6. Do as many problems as possible for familiarity, and simply know where to find them in the formula PDF.
7. Study your depth section 1 time. There is no need to do a lighter version of it for breadth. It's the same material. You can save time if you're taking a course and use that time to practice problems on something else. WRE DEPTH ADVICE
8. master hydraulic problems. Bernoulli variations are everything. Know how to add terms for friction loses minor and major, head for static elev, pressure, and energy,
9. if they provide a table or nomograoh on the exam, be sure to examine the axis or legend very closely. It's intended to trip you with units or scale or principles or something.
10. master hydraulic loading formula. It repeats like 6-10 times in a slightly different form in water and waste water treatment problems. I took the exam twice an

I am building a gravel bike from the frame up. SRAM Force 1x components from smaller CX frame to an older 2013 Tricross frame.

Getting new housing for the hydro brakes and 1x shifter cable. To make this best for gravel + mud, I'm leaning towards full housing through and through. The Tricross frame supports internal housing for rear brake through the top tube, but has integrated cable stops for internal routing through the down tube:

Pic1: Cable Entry

Pic2: Top Tube Exit

Pic3: Down Tube / Bottom Bracket

Question: If full housing is the goal, would taking a drill bit ONLY to punch out the existing cable stop (located internally in down tube) adversely affect the aluminum frame?

Followup: I believe the gauge of mechanical brake housing (5mm) is the same diameter of hydro housing -- so the top tube should need no alterations for the changeover to hydraulic. But feel free to point out a headache there if it's obvious.

Buenosdillas

They’re on standbi

Hey all.

I have a narrow shrinkage crack in a poured concrete foundation below grade that was previously repaired with a low-pressure surface mounted polyurethane injection kit, but has since failed after about 5 years as it has begun leaking again. I believe the foundation is 8-10" thick.

After some research and consulting a few local foundation repair companies, the apparent fix for this is to inject a very low viscosity polyurethane under high pressure by drilling 5" away from the crack on either side at a 45 degree angle to intersect the crack and then inject the polyurethane with a pump through mechanical packers inserted into the holes. All holes would be max. 5" deep at a 45 degree angle from the interior wall and will not go through other side of the foundation. Apart from a suggestion to cover the crack with hydraulic cement, the consensus of the majority of contractors I contacted was to do the high pressure injection.

I wouldn't ordinarily have an issue in doing this with a small crack under say 3-4', but the crack in question is over 8' in length and so this will require drilling upwards of 15, 1/2" diameter holes every 6" into the foundation. I am somewhat hesitant to do this without consulting a structural engineer first. Has anyone done something like this? If so, what was your experience?

QUESTION: Are there any structural concerns in drilling 15, 1/2" diameter holes 5" deep into a foundation wall?

Thanks for answering.

Pilot on me!!