The atmosphere is always changing (why stars flicker), so how can AO correct for that in realtime?
I have narrowed it down to a couple of options here:
Holosun 510c in Green, with theb3x Holosun Magnifier
Or
Primary Arms SLX Micro Prism 1x, also in green, and add the primary arms 3x magnifier.
Typical uses would be indoor ranges, outdoor ranges with a 100 and 200 yard lane, and this spring I hope to start practicing USPSA challenges.
Prices here are relatively the same, and so it really comes down to prism (for some relatively minor but noticeable astigmatism and the etched reticle, vs the infinite eye relief and wider viewing angle of the Holosun.
Been browsing around and I'm about to put my headset together this has been a long long project and I didnt even know this sub existed.
What I have
1x 2048x1536 resolution ips screen 7.9 inches 60hz (hoping to overclock a bit with powerstrip)
1x display board (in the mail). I've been mapping pinouts and soldering up stuff forever but I just couldnt find the fpc connector for the screen and I finally found a complete board online.
1x mpu9150 imu (i think the dk2 uses the 6050 which is the same but without the magnetometer)
1x teensy 3.0 microcontroller. i see a lot of dk1 spoofs use the stm32 so I might pick one of those up, but I also have dozens of others laying around, pic, avr, arduios/megas
So here are my questions. to play rift games do I spoof the EDID? Is that done with something like powerstrip or is there a tool for that?
How do I spoof the IMU? I'm good with code and circuit board design so if someone has something on git hub or failing that some captured output or something to get started.
I dont have any IR LEDs so what about the camera tracking? Do I need a specific camera or can it be spoofed with a normal web cam with the IR filter removed? if I built the IR system I hear they have each led have a specific blink pattern so is that pattern documented?
Since my screen is different and my optics are different how do I modify the distortion and chromatic aberration adjustments? I want to play around with different sets of optics too.
bombardment resulted in a pattern of undulating protons lasting for approximately 0.7 seconds that performed three miracles and restored the throne of Dave
posterboard - $4
water - $10
balloons for the kids - $15
needle - moved
drommer - priceless
archive - fattened
certainty - battened
feels - bolstered
fire - stoked
special effects - ILM
connection - lost
Wanting to get an optic for my 365 XL and can't figure out any solid info from Google. Obviously looking at Holosun 507 and 407. I like the idea of the multi-reticle from 507k but I've read some with astigmatism prefer the smaller dot as it offers less to be distorted, or at least is a smaller blob instead of a big blob. Others have said the circle image was clear when the single dot created a starburst. Also seen different opinions on red vs green is better for astigmatism. I'm also colorblind and have had trouble seeing a red reticle from a few optics on a green foliage background. Never seen through a green optic. I feel like it would just be pale like traffic lights. If it helps astigmatism I'm down to pay extra. Bottom line is depending on dot color and reticle I can save quite a bit if it's not going to be useful. Red 407k is $100 less than green 507k and that's enough to really make a difference.
Anyone here have experience with this?
Hi All,
I have a Dell Desktop running Win10 Pro. I have been having a lot of issues with sound card to my Z-5500 speakers
I even tried using the 3.5mm out same issue. but have no issues if I use the onboard 3.5mm jack.
Even at 2channel - 16 44100 Hz
I get this backgound niose / distortion from playback. I have tried various settings but of no avail.
Let me know if you guys have any ideas or need me to run diagnostics and put them here
Any help is appriciated
https://www.patentlyapple.com/patently-apple/2021/10/apple-invents-hmds-with-an-advanced-optical-module-positioning-system-to-assist-in-avoiding-distorted-or-double-vision.html
The key element for the MVIS investor is to be found in Figure 1, #44 light emitting diodes…
I’ve noticed a disproportionate amount of posts in this group as compared to other firearms groups of weapons with doo doo tier optics and I think we really need to address this as quality optics are hands down the most important addition to any rifle I understand that good optics are expensive but believe me it’s worth it in the long run for edit I think the absolute cheapest you should go on an optic is like a buris fast fire 3 anything lower then that and you’re gonna have a bad time
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