I've recently got the Petzl Rad line to try out as a glacier travel and rappelling rope for ski mountaineering. My Petzl reverso works for rappelling with it if I use two carabiners (as Petzl recommends), but I know Mammut used to make a figure of 8 specifically for thin ropes. Does anyone know of any other brand making these, or should I just try to find one secondhand?
For clarity, the Rad Line is a 6mm static line, so too thin to work with a lot of belay devices.
Beginner climbing gear - $65
I have climbing gear that was only used briefly in a gym, good for someone starting out.
CAMP Titan Helmet - size Large, good condition.
La Sportiva Tarantulace - size 42, used but still lots of life.
Petzl Verso Belay device - never used brand new.
SOLD
Brand new never used due to distance from climbing gym. Only got into bouldering. $65 and I'll cover shipping. Link is to photo with timestamp. Thanks!
Updated link: https://i.imgur.com/0XHqdsc_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium
Basically what the title says... this morning someone was climbing on the auto-belay, got to the top, let go and the auto-belay device failed or broke or something. He fell about 15 meters (~50 feet). He was taken to the hospital and was still alive when he left the gym but that’s all I know.
I’m kind of freaking out. They test those regularly. I used them all the time, and every time I let go I always had a split moment of “is this the day I die? No, no, that’s silly, these are safe”. I always planned to have my son start using them when he’s a little older. Now, I don’t think I’ll ever trust an auto-belay device again.
I don’t think this was the gym’s fault in any way, like I said they test the auto-belays regularly. They posted on Facebook once things calmed down at the gym to let everyone know there had been an accident and that the auto-belays are off limits indefinitely until further notice, and there is going to be an investigation.
But holy shit... this has really shaken me.
Edit: brief update posted here.
Message me with a description if they're yours.
Edit: Location is Culver City.
Looking to purchase a Grigri belay device but can’t afford $100 for a new one. I have an ATC but prefer the grigri. Shoot me an offer. Thanks.
I have been pretty much exclusively bouldering with my boyfriend for years now when we go on trips by ourselves because belaying him makes me nervous. This isn’t because of lack of knowledge (I’ve climbed since 2012, and spent 3 years managing a university climbing facility and teaching belay classes). It’s because he is literally double my size and I’ve always disliked lead belaying with grigris! I definitely want to have an assisted locking device because of our size difference, but I have never been comfortable with the mechanics of feeding rope through a gri gri for slack. Is there a device more similar to an atc (which I used for years and probably lends to why I am stuck in my ways) when it comes to rope management? I’m leaning towards a Jul 2, but very open to ideas. Even tricks to safely get over the learning curve handling a grigri for lead would be fine!
Thanks in advance !
So I know there was a lot of speculation about user error being the cause of the fall... turns out that was not the case. There's a French article about it, here is a basic summary:
- the auto-belay cable broke and that is what caused the fall
- he fell 15 meters (50 feet)
- there were some EMTs on site climbing when the fall happened (they are regulars, I've seen them there often in the mornings) who took charge of the situation while employees called 911
- all 4 auto-belays on site were last inspected in February and passed inspection
- auto-belays at this gym are now off limits for the time being
- an investigation is underway and the gym is bringing in a psychologist to talk to the employees
- the climber was a 16 year old boy and badly injured both legs
For those who are curious, this is what the auto-belays are clipped into at the bottom and this is what the tops look like. According to this comment, they are "belay in a box".
Edit: the article also mentions that all of this info was provided by the gym owner.
I'm just getting into outdoor climbing and looking for my first assisted braking belay device. My girlfriend isn't very confident belaying me on lead with an ATC so I feel like this will help us out. I figure it's worth investing now since I'm sure I'll be using it for years so wondered if anyone has advice on what I should be getting?
I've looked at the new Grigri+ which looks good for beginners. But then wondered about the standard Grigri as well as others like the Climbing Technology Click-Up, Edelrid Ohm, Edelrid Eddy, Salewa Ergo, Austrialpin Fish, Mad Rock Lifeguard, Camp Matik, Skylotec Lory etc. etc.
I'm basically browsing through a website which sells all of these (and I have a 20% discount code) and am feeling completely lost at to what I should actually order. Would really appreciate any input from people with more experience than me.
Thanks!
Just curious on your opinions and what you actually do and why you do it that way.
Hey everyone, I'm going to the rock climbing gym for the first time next week. Which belay device should I get so that I don't have to have my hands on the rope at all times? I know I have to check in with my climber, but sometimes I'll need to do other things with my hands. Also, if there are any that I can use without having to put in the time to learn proper belay technique, that would be awesome. I know, I know: I (or my climber) am going to die. But they just have to say that, right?
Hey All!
I recently bopught my GF a Mammut Smart, an assisted locking tube style device similar to a Megajul. We both feel more comfortable using this device than an ATC due to its locking capabilites as I am much heavier than she is and she gets somewhat intimidated by catching big falls. She's never made a belay mistake with an ATC but still, having the locking function gives us both peace of mind.
Recently at a new gym in my city, we were told that we could not use this device in the gym because the staff are not trained to use it and that only ATCs and Gri-Gris were allowed. I explained how the device worked, that it is at least as safe as a gri-gri (if not safer) and how it made us feel more at ease. I also told them that several people were using a Megajul in the gym and have not been told to stop, but he said those were not allowed either. When I pressed further for an explanation, he said that all staff are trained through AMGA and to be consistent, don't allow anything not covered in the AMGA training.
Can someone help me understand why this makes sense? Is it really not accepted by AMGA standards? Any advice on getting them to let us use our device? It's not a huuge deal, but it's very frustrating that the rules of the gym seem to trump actual safety.
Thanks!
I got a MegaJul sport three months ago and since then I used it around 20 times only as an assisted belay device (I still rappel with a standard ATC).
Yesterday I noticed that the green plastic bit that connects the cable to the steel plate is a bit loose whenever I apply pressure on it. Loose means 1mm (see pic, normally the plastic is in contact with the metal), but I don't remember this being the case when new and I also wonder what happens when the device is loaded with a climber's weight.
I googled a bit and it turns out that some MegaJul did break in the past (see e.g. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114338282/megajul-unexpectedly-broke-during-while-rapping-yesterday) exactly because of the cable coming off the plate.
My questions:
Should I retire the device (or am I being paranoid)?
Should I write to the manifacturer?
Thanks for any feedback!
https://preview.redd.it/ldv8pjqasvj11.jpg?width=4128&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c3fdb11ee9d7dd295b5a6d97e3eb3ecc3c6eb90d
Asking for a friend.
