Long back story here…. The tranny has been suspect for a couple of months, slipping occasionally, especially when first taking off. 2 weeks ago the rear suspension air pump got stuck on, which drained the battery, after a jump start I noticed the pump running non stop, key out, car off, 20 min later, always running…. So I pulled the fuse. Pump off life is good. Day 2, get home, shut off the car, and the key won’t rotate all of the way back to be removed. Turned everything off that I could, left it overnight. Next morning the battery was again dead. I jump it again. Car runs, all good. I against my better judgment cut s small hole in the steering column to access the silver manual release button for the key. This worked great !! Key now comes out, while pressing the button. Fast forward to 2 days ago, all had been good. Leaving the driveway the tranny slipped quite badly, I pulled back into the driveway and several dash lights came on, ABS, Traction control etc. I shut the car off. Waited a few minutes. Started it….. decided not to push my luck. So I left the car and took my F150 instead.
Now it gets weird !!! I get home, try to start the car…. No dice. No crank, no click. I grab my OBD2 …. No Comms. I grab my test light and start checking fuses. Under rear sear all fuses tested good BUT , no light on fuse 40 (BCM) and fuse 28 (RAP1) I start swapping a few relays, no luck, checked under the hood fuses, all good. My dash tells me (when pressing buttons) that the car is not in park. This makes sense with the no crank, it acts as though the car thinks it’s not in park.
I am at a total loss. Called the dealer and they said they can “take a look” at $119 per hour plus the $100 tow 1 way. Now the car is immaculate, no rust, 138k, and I was willing to have the tranny rebuilt if necessary. But combined with this, I’m not so sure.
Could the BCM be blown ? Would that cause this problem ? Or did the tranny “let go” and broke the neutral safety switch ? Not sure if either of these would cause no comms to my reader though? And advice would be greatly appreciated !!!!
I need to replace my stoplight switch for my brake lights to function properly. Other people have said after the switch has been replaced my lights will not function without being calibrated to the bcm any ideas on which type of scan tool is needed for the calibration of the new switch?
My uncle is having a hard time with his car right now where his heat randomly cuts out and the engine temp rises me and my father have not gone up to see it yet was wondering if anyone has any ideas what it could be the car is a 2008 buick lucerne 3800 3.8L
Hello! My dad has a nice burgundy 08 Lucerne he wants to sell me pretty cheap. $2500 at 140k miles. In amazing condition. The issue is that it's already had the fuse box of death lol. And the fuel pump also got shorted out and destroyed. It's all been fixed and whatnot with OEM parts. Question is do I have to worry about this reoccurring or can I prevent it somehow? I read somewhere that the fuel pump gets shorted out from the seat rails rubbing the wires?
I just bought a 2008 buick lucerne cxl and does anybody know if it has bluetooth on the factory radio?
I'm buying a 2009 buick lucerne CXL soon with the 3800 motor and I was wondering how much horsepower it can comfortably take, I want to long term turn it into a sleeper but without blowing up the engine. Any recommendations on maintenance and light mods are also welcome
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/345754947308472/
If am sale goes through or it has bad mechanical problems I will probably find another buick with with 3800
On my commute home last night, I got a message on the driver info center saying “Engine hot, A/C off” but the temp gauge was on C. That gauge normally gets to halfway and stays there. The car was running fine and I saw no evidence of overheating, but I was nearly home so I just slowed down a bit and made it in one piece. Opened the hood, I did not try to remove the pressure cap in case it really was hot, the hoses were hot but just normal hot, I could hold onto them for more than a few seconds without issue. The overflow jug was empty, but it usually is, and whenever I would pop the pressure cap, it’s always been full there. I had the coolant changed at Buick about 14K miles ago at 150K.
This morning, I popped the cap and topped up the coolant, took about a quart of water. Fired her up, let it run for a few but the level didn’t drop, the temp gauge started to respond and I got my A/C back. The DIC message did not reappear. Drove to work, the temp gauge never got back to its normal halfway mark. My aftermarket radio plugs into the OBDII connector and can display engine info, temp got to 157F and stayed right there the whole trip.
So, last night’s behavior seemed like a bad temp sensor, today it seems like a stuck open thermostat. The CEL never came on. What should I look at next?
Thx
