R1200GS, 2004.
Always cranked slowly since I got it 3 years ago, but now won't start at all in the colder weather. Voltage on the battery is 12.6, which drops to around 9v when cranking. If I put a battery charger on it and keep trying, it'll generally fire up. Once warm it's fine.
Happened a few times now when it's been parked for more than a few days. I replaced the battery only a year ago, but I replaced it again anyway - both good quality batteries meeting original spec. Happened again after leaving it for a week.
I've also removed, cleaned and replaced the contacts to the starter. They looked a but cruddy but it hasn't helped.
Starter looks to be the original bosch.
There is a dryish squeaking noise from what I assume is the alternator belt when it's cranking, and cranking generally sounds tight, but once it fires once it's fine.
So next step has to be a new starter motor, right?
(Hope so, just ordered one!)
Upgrading my ‘05 starter motor (N3H1) next month as it’s a bit of a bitch in this cold weather (and it just isn’t great anyway).
What do we recommend? I know the 4th generation starter motor is the best (but also rare to get OEM from an S2), do I get a copy made by a reputable rotary specialist (I.e mazmart, rotary revs, Essex rotary etc etc)
Cheers!
I have very limited car knowledge. As the title says, the starter motor can be heard but engine will not start. Battery is charged and it is fully fueled, I had the oil changed 6 months ago. We just had a snowstorm and some pretty cold weather as well, I don’t have a garage. Any advice would be great.
Sorry if this post isn’t allowed!
My motorcycle has a Mitsuba SM-13 Starter Motor, same that's used on Honda Hornet. I had trouble starting the bike. So I inspected the starter motor.
The positive brush terminal screw on the starter motor was spinning freely 360 degrees.
which is probably the reason why the conducting wire to the brushes is fully severed.
probably because the brace which also insulates the screw from touching the grounded body of the starter motor is shattered into fragments, thanks to the forceful wrenching of some so far unidentified knucklehead not me.
So, now, I have no leverage against which to apply force to unscrew the nuts attached to the terminal screw, AND, said terminal screw is in constant contact with the body of the starter motor, which is earthed.
I suspect this has been the reason behind my constant battery drain.
Am I wrong to think that the starter motor is shorting due to the lack of this insulator?
Anyone know where to get that insulator/brace that holds the brush terminal screw in place?
Will I have to buy a whole new starter motor?
Will diagrams and photos clarify my questions?
Since the motor that starts the engine is 200v, how does providing 12v jump start the engine if the hv battery is dead?
Does this mean that the hv dcdc charger works both ways?
Just recently got myself a Nissan 350z the car hadn’t been used in a while so got it cheaper just as a project car.
Upon delivery the car took a while to start.. the engine would turn over maybe took 1-2 tries but eventually started.
Later on that day I decided to go out in my car and all I heard was the starter motor spinning but no connection was made at all to my flywheel.
I’ve charged the battery, reset the immobiliser and still 2 days later it won’t start.
I’m not sure if it’s just full of grease and dirt due to it not being in use for about a year or if it’s electrical.. but Any ideas what this problem could be/ causes for this.. thanks.
Hi all, I’ve got a 2009 Toyota hilux (manual) and the starter motor is shot. It’s works occasionally and I’ve ordered a new one but won’t show up until the 30th. Given it’s Xmas time I’ve got some miles to do to see all the family. I understand push starting and roll starting and that works how ever I don’t always have people around to help. After being stuck at the gym yesterday at my wits end I started it by turning the key in 1st gear with clutch out, the rolling momentum of the Ute jumping forward and light acceleration fired up Ute to drive away. My question is am I doing any damage by starting it this way ?
My start motor packed up on a Peugeot 207, paid a mechanic to fit a new one and it's squealing fairly loud when it turns on then stops afterwards. I asked him and he just said it had something to do with touching something else and it'll go away after a bit.
Should I be worried? It never made the noise before.
I don't have much experience with motors so looking for some help.
Motor Nameplate: http://imgur.com/a/2fxlBZu
Motor Starter Information: http://imgur.com/a/fN5zA8g
This motor powers a pump for a boiler. It is fed from an MCC with a fused disconnect and motor starter. The motor starter's overload keeps tripping which causes the building to lose some heating.
I don't know which rating of overloads are in there currently but I would assume B 4.85 (In motor starter Information) based off of the motors current rating.
The motor has a rated 3.3 amps with a 1.15 service factor. The motor current reads at
Phase A: 3.2 amps Phase B: 3.9 Amps Phase C: 4.1 Amps
Is it normal for 3 Phase motors to have a 25% difference between windings? Seems a little too much to me. Phase B and C are over the rated service factor so it makes sense to me why the overloads are tripping. Could it be the motor is going bad? Maybe the motor's bearings? Or maybe the liquid it is pumping is being restricted and needs more power to flow?
Any help is greatly appreciated. I don't want to put bigger overload contacts in the motor starter since the motor is already running over the rated service factor. Maybe the overload contacts are bad?
Also wondering about electric power tool motors.
Hi everyone!
I've got a first-gen Toyota Tacoma (1996, v6/3.4L, manual transmission) that is having intermittent starting problems and I'm stumped. The main symptom is when I try to start the car, I hear a single loud "click" coming from the starter. Sometimes (not always?) if I keep the key turned to start, I can hear a faint high-pitched whine.
Some notes:
- If I connect another car's battery and try to jump-start, I get the same result, no difference. If I push-start the car, once it's running it runs fine. Battery is relatively new (6mos old), resting voltage is mid-12's, and a battery test at a auto parts store said the battery was fine.
- When the problem first showed up, no matter what I did I could not start the car.I replaced the starter and the car immediately started up nice and strong. I was able to start like this for about a week or so, and then the problem came back.
- The next day I did some more googling and figured it might be the starter relay, so I replaced that as well. When I went to replace the starter relay, the car started up just fine, but I replaced it anyways out of caution. Same story, this fixed the problem for about a week or so, and then the problem came back this morning.
- This morning, same problem (single loud click). I kept the key turned to start, and after a few seconds the starter kinda lurched to life, then started just fine. Now it's running just fine but I'm stumped.
I'd appreciate any/all thoughts here! The main behavior (either not working at all or starting strong) makes me think it's a loose electrical connection, but I'm honestly stumped, given the parts I've replaced and how they've kinda-fixed things but not really. Thanks in advance!
The Starter Motor itself cost me almost $500 (according to the shop's invoice to me). When I google it I'm not seeing anything over $200. I'm im Canada. Does this seem to be a reasonable cost? I need to know because my car has had several very pricey issues in the last year or so and I'm wondering if my current mechanic is the right one for me. Thanks in advance.
Has anyone else got their “favourite” John Deere designs to share? Took me 45 minutes to get the lower nut of that starter back on 😂
