Guide rail Puns

Hey all,

[TL/DR] Guide rails set at 1m above ground 1.5 m apart have sped up my sowing and harvesting of carrot crops by about 12% at about a 5% cost in crop density over my initial practice.

I have just started taming boars to build up a supply of food and leather that allows me to focus on activity other than subsistence hunting. The boars themselves weren't that challenging to gather, I just got their agro, blocked with a tower shield, and lead them back to the pen I had built. I am aware that there are "boar machine" systems that make boar farming much easier, but for the moment I have them in a typical 314 sq m paddock.

What turned out to be a real drag was planting carrots to feed said boars. I found that I was getting bogged down in spacing, and since over a 314 sq m paddock I might be planting 750+ seeds, and sometimes they would need more room, blah blah. Likewise, harvesting was a drag, nearly 1000 keypresses to clear the plot.

Of course, there are a lot of timedrags, but I did some notepad math and discovered that my greatest time savings would probably emerge from improving my per seed sow/harvest time. So I decided to get a "human factors" engineering bug up my ass and try and trim some ticks off of each plant/harvest action. So I tinkered with guide rail designs to try and make straight lines I could simply run along while spamming seeds into the ground.

The first guide rails I did were low to the ground and at 2m width apart. This worked, but there was a lot of wasted space in between rows, the rows could have been much closer together. More math showed me that I would lose so much crop density at the 2m interval that I'd basically have to build a second 314 farm plot to keep up with projected boar hunger.

The second guide rails I attempted were at 1m interval. These failed, simply because my character could not fit between the rails to run down them spamming seeds.

The third guide rails I attempted were at 1.5 m interval. People have already told me "You must be modding" but actually getting the 1.5 m interval was a little subtle but not that hard. Basically, I put a 1m and 2m beam on each other across my desired path, aim the beam I am trying to place ALONG my path at the joint between the 1 and 2m beam, and wait for it to snap away as I move my crosshairs into the 2m beam. When it finally snaps away from the joint, the point you are aiming at the the beam is the 1.5 m mark on the 3m length. Stick your rail right there and you h

👋 Hi All!

I'm working on building a step-by-step guide on how to roll authentication from scratch in Rails. My goal is to make this the authoritative source for learning how to roll your own auth in Rails (and maybe even make a generator out of it).

Before I start promoting this I would love some security feedback (I'm not concerned with typos and refactoring just yet).

Feel free to make a PR or open an issue.

Thanks!

-Steve Polito

Alright, I have searched entire youtube, the web and plenty of books.

I want to know the "art" of properly and mindfully of installing precision linear guide rails onto ultra precision granite surface plate or aluminum plate or composite epoxy granite. Nobody talks about this in much detail or the specifics.

I know many expensive precision instruments are needed when installing precision linear guide rails, it's a very involved process.

Anyone knows a book or two which teaches how to install linear guide rails? I have seen many videos but they are like 7 min video which are useless. I have seen some videos which does provide good info but not the fundamentals and still not clear about the process.

Basically I want to build a mini 2 axis (X and Y) CNC, it will be used to laser etch or sensitize PCB and photoresist with an accuracy tolerance of 1 to 10 microns. I know it's doable.

Seems like it's easy knowledge for precision machinists.

Thanks!

Edit: Project details in mind:

The size of the granite surface plate will be 12 x 12 inch grade AA which should have an overall surface finish around one micron. (believe it or not, there are triple AAA grades too which has a much higher surface finish with < 1 micron).

Hiwin has 2-5 micron precision rails. I have no idea how to correctly bolt it, like what is the correct method or procedure to tight it down.

I'm planning to use this dial test indicator, costs around $130 from amazon: "Mitutoyo 513-405-10E DIAL TI, BAS, STD 0.2 mm, 1 μm Accuracy, 0.002 mm (2 μm) resolution, Yellow".

Should I use a square precision granite reference tool? How do I align and place the granite square tool to the surface plate? Do I even need a granite square tool? What about the granite straight edge tool, do I need that as well?

I'm planning to use a drill and tap made for stone. I'm not sure how I would go about drilling it to the granite surface plate. I have seen few people using a hand screw gun. But I think a mini portable table drill press would better. This is why I am asking on reddit CNC what is the best way to drill it, because I know little things like these are good to know on how to do things properly and professionally.

We are buying some N Scale curved track and we really aren't sure how to judge what locomotives can and can't make the turns. It seems like most Kato locomotives should be able to run on 9.75" radius curves. But we were looking at some Bauchmen and I've heard people say that 2-6-2's should run fine on 9.75" while some details say they will (only?) work on 11" radius.

But beyond that, we were also wanting to make a very small scale layout using 8", 6", and 4" radius rails, but couldn't figure out which trains would an wouldn't work with them. I think we found a couple of trams that (only) worked with 6" and one single train designed to work with 4".

So I guess my overarching question: Is there a guide to what specific trains or at least what type of trains will work, might work, and definitely won't work for specific curve radiuses? Additionally, I still know very little about model trains, so I apologize if I ask for some ELI5's.

Hi

I'd like to get the new ONE+ HP Circular Saw and a generic guide rail for straight cuts.

As others have noticed, the saw has a guide groove in the base plate.

From the diagrams in the manual this groove seems to be for the RAK03SR 3-piece plastic saw rail kit which is apparently designed for the RWS1250-G and RWS1400-K saws.

This kit isn't available any more and apparently it wasn't very good anyway.

I'd like to use a generic metal guide rail like for example this YouTool one. What I'd like to avoid is having to put the saw on a sliding platform like the Kreg system for example (I could, but it seems unnecessary when there's already a groove built into the plate).

The YouTool page has dimensions (in tenths of millimetres) and notes that to use the rail with a saw, it must fulfil the following conditions:

• Approx 16mm wide guide groove
• Distance between guide groove and saw blade should be about (or maybe at least) 121mm

Could someone with the new HP Saw (or perhaps even the older RWS1250/RWS1400 saws) measure the groove width and the distance from the edge of the groove to the blade?

Alternatively, does anyone know of another metal guide rail that would work with this saw without using a sliding platform/dolly or a clamped straight edge?

It would be very neat to find a way of using the groove in this saw with a proper guide rail.

Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/37e5dfvbm8y71.png?width=845&format=png&auto=webp&s=5f38298e201e1da7f3a348175e38e8e4a82cece9

The Japan Rail Pass (ジャパンレールパス, japan rēru pasu), also called the JR Pass, is a rail pass for overseas visitors sold by the Japan Railways Group, and is valid for travel on all major forms of transportation provided by the JR Group in Japan, with a few exceptions. The Rail Pass is designed to stimulate travel and tourism throughout the country. It is only cost effective for long-distance travel, particularly by bullet train. While the savings from extensive travel can be considerable, those who travel too little may in fact lose money on a rail pass. The Japan Rail Pass is of limited use within larger cities. In Tokyo, for instance, it does cover the Yamanote Line which goes to several popular tourist areas as well as in Osaka on the Osaka Loop Line, plus in Kyoto on the Nara Line and Sagano Line.

The national Rail Pass comes in two varieties, one for each class of service, Standard Car (普通車, Futsūsha) and Green Car (グリーン車, Gurīnsha) (first class car). Furthermore, the pass is time limited based on the length of pass purchased. Three time periods are available: seven, fourteen and twenty-one consecutive day passes, which provide the user nearly unlimited use of JR transportation services. The table below summarizes the prices for each pass. The amounts are listed in Japanese Yen. When purchasing the Exchange Order (see below), the purchaser will pay the appropriate amount in the purchaser's home country currency based on the current exchange rate.

While the Rail Pass is sold by the JR Group, it is obtained by purchasing an Exchange Order from a travel agency located outside Japan. The exchange order can also be purchased from All Nippon Airways; Japan Airlines stopped selling exchange orders in March 2017. The Exchange Order cannot be obtained in Japan. However, from March 8, 2017 to March 31, 2022 (Extended), as part of a trial basis, the Japan Rail Pass wil

Hello all, I’m rehabbing a knee injury and need stability shoes since overpronation is irritating my knee and preventing the injury from healing fully. (I am also doing physical therapy to correct muscle imbalances caused by and affecting these issues.)

The Brooks Glycerin GTS (6.5 Wide) felt best of the ones I tried in-store except that I can feel the inner guide rail pressing into my foot and I’m terrified it’s going to hurt over time and I’ll have wasted my money. But I haven’t had stability shoes since I got a pair of motion control shoes with big arch support (Saucony Cortanas, and they were too narrow but I was desperate) after a foot injury several years ago, so I’m not sure if this is just how it is and my foot needs to adapt. Anyone have experience with this?

I am at the beginning of the design of a small platform that will move in X(1500mm) and Y(1000mm) axis. Motion will be provided by belt driven linear actuators (1 per axis). I would like to add linear rails to platforms outer edge(s) to provide rigidity and reduce roll moments on the linear actuator stages.

For the support rails, I am looking at either using linear guide rails with carriages or linear slide rails.

I've used linear slide rails in the past, but not under this particular application. They are inexpensive, easy to find, and have high static load ratings, I am not sure how their static pitch moment compares w/ linear guide rails.

On the other hand I could use a linear guide rails. They have high static loads, moment load and pitch moment load capabilities. I have not used them extensively. They do seem to be the more popular choice in design of automated systems.

Given I am most concerned with the longevity, rigidity, and precision of the system, what are some Pro's and Con's of the Linear Guides vs the Linear Slide Rails?

I want to do long straight cuts to build simple furniture and other DIY.

Right now I need to cut a 8 foot x 25 x 2 inch butcher block to make a 6 foot x 21 counter and the leftover a 4 inch side splash. As they need to fit together I need a reliable straight cutter.

I already got a miter saw and jigsaw…

New here, and I'm coming from the 3d printing space. Couldn't really find a better sub to post this question. Got 3 MGN12H rails($25 each from aliexpress) that, out of the box, would fall on their own weight. But it was oily and I was afraid that the factory lube it got on it would over time attract dirt, so I decided to clean it with 50% IPA. But I made the mistake of mixing the ball bearings. after drying them and carefully putting them back together, 2 guides are almost stuck when put on the rails. I put some liquid PTFE on it but it still requires a considerable amount of force to move it. I ordered some 3/32 G10 bearings from BCPrecision, and getting another brand of oil-based PTFE super lube. I am afraid that even getting the quality ball bearings wouldn't work since the tolerance built into each rail might be so unique since they are cheaply made. And I also know very very little in this subject matter. Anything else that I should try doing or would help to narrow down to what the exact problem is?

TLDR: bought 3 cheap chinese linear rail, worked great out of the box. but after cleaning and mixing the ball bearings, they are now stuck.