Never driven either, but I see people praising the tremec trans and saying that the gt one fails after certain mileage. Manual v8 mustang is my dream car so I'm curious. Btw, in my country the mach 1 is 112k dollars, and gt is 89k. LOL literally double than in the US
Specifically the difference in the clutch for both
I’m looking at doing a build (ford ranger with an engine that has 500+ hp) and I’m thinking of this as the transmission, but I’m considered about blowing the transmission. Also side request any good recommendations for an awd set up that could take power?
This has been a subject I have looked up online, and have found few results on. I currently own a 2019 10R80 GT, and I have wondered what the costs look like and if there ever will be a complete Tremec transmission swap kit for a manual Tremec solution for owners who, like me, bought the 10R80 because the MT82 has problems when it comes to performance driving, or dissatisfied MT82 owners. Obviously this must be possible as the new Mach 1 will come with a Tremec, and certain suppliers have sold the coyote crate engine with a Tremec Magnum XL attached, I believe Ford Performance does this. Has anyone done this swap before to the gen 3 coyote? Is there something out there to just buy the transmission and not the complete power module?
Looking for a T-176 transmission for my CJ7 if someone is parting out. Let me know what you have. And if I can find one I have my original S-4 transmission if anyone is interested. 1980 CJ7
I changed the transmission fluid in my 2007 GT last weekend because I (finally) hit 50k on the clock. Drained out the factory stuff and put in Royal Purple because the internet said shifting would be silky smooth.
Surprise, the shifting sucks, it feels like I grind gears every time I downshift.
I actually don't have the manual (got this car off my father) but I know it recommends ATF, some say Dextron III and others say GM Synchromesh.
Here to solicit opinions. Which fluid has /r/mustang has success with?
So I have an 03 GT sporting the TR-3650 5-speed, and its been having an odd grinding-like issue for the last few weeks.
When I try to put it into 1st gear, it'll sound like its grinding, feels like a gear clash. This even happens when I'm at a dead stop (after slowing down) and the clutch is fully depressed. Its possible to slam it in, but my workaround is to put it into 2nd, and then it'll slide into 1st with no issue.
I'm thinking its a synchro, but if anyone else has an idea, I'd appreciate the help.
Thanks!
EDIT 9/29: Thanks for the advice guys! I'll get the tranny popped off in a few weeks and see what we're dealing with. Luckily, I got a replacement clutch on deck, so if its just the clutch, that'll make the fix so much easier.
I'll keep you all posted if I need further help! Once again, thanks!
Just for fun, here’s a really long-term review of the 2005 Ford Mustang base model.
I’ve driven a base-model 2005 since 2015.The current car has >210,000km on it now.
Here’s the thing: the V8 Mustang is the sports car. The V6 is, I think, better understood as a purpose-built fun, economical daily-driver. It’s as if Ford designed the V6 to be the V8 owner's winter beater. Worrying about 0-60 times in the base model is silly—it’s the small motor; of course it’s slow. But once you clear that insecurity about acceleration from your mind, the genius of this car starts to reveal itself.
It’s decent, it's cheap, and it’s practical enough for daily life while still being fun to drive. I’ve packed it to the brim with my stuff when moving and was surprised by what it can carry. It’s built out of rocks and the stubbornness of old men. It gets decent gas mileage. The engine bay was built for the 5.4L, so there’s LOADS of room to wrench on the little “four-point-slow.” Remove the fan and there's almost a foot of space in front of the engine.
The powertrain is all old-school tech. The 4.0L V6 dates to 1990 (was pushrod then) and its block can trace origins to 1965. The transmission is a Tremec T5 just as was used in late ‘80s and 90’s V8 Mustangs (with different ratios and a customized tailshaft housing). The rear axle is the venerable Ford 7.5”. All three of these were used in small trucks over the years, and this 2005 Mustang does sometimes feel like truck when going around a bumpy corner on a rough road.
The transmission still shifts smoothly and the gates feel tight. There is sometimes some rattle at idle and rarely it is difficult to engage first gear. Most of the time it's very pleasing, mechanical-feeling transmission. The clutch is a little heavy but has good sensitivity. It's all well-suited for everyday driving, especially the long third gear which is useful in town. I expect the transmission will outlast the Sun.
Winter driving is a non-issue. A set of winter tires is all I've needed. I've driven across North Dakota in a white-out blizzard and I've driven through dumps of lake-effect snow. Never have I gotten stuck. I've passed AWD crossovers in the ditch on my way up an unploughed hill. This car is well-balanced and lovely in the snow. The silly frameless windows do need to be scraped before you open the door, or the ice breaks the window motor. Also: it is prone to rust at the front lip of the hood. And just above the windshield. And on the bot
... keep reading on reddit ➡2013 Shelby GT500 is “Greatest Mustang Ever Built” says Carroll Shelby ... True to the legacy of the legendary racer and auto designer who helped define the modern sports car, the Shelby GT500 is a Mustang with more power than any sane individual needs.
Up for sale is a 2013 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 SVT 20th Anniversary Edition with Navigation, leather seats, SVT Track Package and Technology Package and only 17,xxx miles on it. Miles won't go up to much as this is truly a Sunday driver.
The Shelby packs a completely stock 5.8L V8 with a 2.3L TVS Supercharger pushing out 662hp and 600tq at the crank. The power gets laid down with a TREMEC 6spd transmission to push out 0-60 time of 3.5 seconds and 1/4 mile time of 11.6. This is .1 faster than the new 2020 Shelby GT500 Carbon Track Package vehicle on 0-60, and only .3 slower on the 1/4 miles.
I am the second owner of this Shelby GT500, and I have put roughly 6,500 miles on the vehicle over the past 2+ years. Services always done on time schedule, not by mileage.
The car is not in show condition though it could be very easily with a touch up on the front splitter and a fixing of a few minor paint chips here and there.
This Shelby is completely stock except for a change in tires and stripes. For the tires I went with wider width front and rears, simply for traction. Fronts are now 285 vs stock 265, rears now 305 vs stock 285. This helps the vehicle from doing burnouts in 3rd gear, which is fun until you factor in the cost of tires. The original Eagle F1 Supercar tires were completely undriveable, the newer wider tires are Firestone Firehawks with less than 4,000 miles on them. These are good as long as it's not raining.
This vehicle is black with custom vinyl silver racing stripes with red vinyl rally stripes. The original matte black stripes were removed.
"This year marks the 50th anniversary of the original Shelby Cobra," said Jim Farley, Ford's group vice president for sales and marketing, in a release. "This car represents the very idea he had about making the 2013 Shelby GT500 into a true Cobra."
Carroll Shelby on October 19, 2011, told the SVT team, that the 2013 Ford Shelby GT500 was “100 percent.” Shelby was proud to put his name on the last car that he would be involved with before his death. He said, “you’ve made it the best and more.”
In a last tribute to Carroll Shelby, the SVT tea
... keep reading on reddit ➡I used to have a 2018 Mustang GT Performance Pack 5.0 and I thought it was just amazing at first (I bought mine used with only 4,000 miles on it). But within 5,000 miles it was like shifting through rocks sometimes, and then 3rd and 5th gear would make a high pitched whine that was faint but loud enough to worry me. I switched the trans fluid with BG Products Syncro Shift II Synthetic Gear Oil and while it helped it still was not a great transmission.
Going from a Focus RS, a Miata, a (dare I say) Camaro it was night and day that the Mustang Transmission was note very good. I even had a 2015 Mustang GT that had a similar issue. So I took it in.
Every time I took it in (still under warranty) different dealerships gave me a shrug and a "it's fine." and said without anything serious they wouldn't touch it.
I sold this car at the peak of prices and got a pretty penny but I do miss my car and wanted to buy another possibly.
I have two questions for everyone here.
- Do you agree the transmission issue is a Achilles heel on a great car?
- Did you swap the transmission, and if so how much did that cost you?
- If you think it's fine how many miles have you put on the car?
In the market for a new car $50k or less. I spec'd out a $57k 2022 Premium Mach 1, and a dealer verbally promised me under invoice pricing + a few discounts id expect around $50-53k to spend.
But now driving a 2019 V8 GT, Im having second thoughts. When I started my search $35-$40k got you a 2015-2017 V8 GT now that same price is in the 2018-21 range. I expect it to keep dropping when the 2022s come out.
After driving the 2019 V8 GT I liked it
I always wanted a mustang but dont see why anyone wouldnt just spec out the cheapest V8 and go from there.
So my question is those who bought the Mach 1 Why? Comments like this is what opened my eyes
On the other hand I feel like shit buying a 1-3 year GT thats selling over MSRP despite being cheaper than a Mach 1.
So then I'm left with getting a 2022 GT Premium. Spec'd out its $47 so $10k cheaper than a MACH-1,and lets assume $40k I can buy it for.
It may seem to most to just get the GT Premium but what are yalls experience with depreciation on limited edition Mustangs like the Mach-1? For example lets say the "dime a dozen" GT depreciates -55% after 5 years, thats 22k gone, If the MACH-1 depreciates -45% after 5 years thats still "only" 22k gone. Id much rather have the GT with shelby parts. Or what about V8s in general, with the Camaro being killed, and the challenger and charger not too long behind I don't see the historical depreciation rates being there for any model, especially if the parts shortage will have multi year effects. Looking the used camaro prices there YoY prices are notably higher than Mustangs.
I dont know just ranting but lastly what is a good deal!
Must have: V8, 10spd automatic, heat/cooled/power seats, 2019 or newer, less than 40k miles.
I know the "Manual vs Auto" debate is as old as the automatic transmission but it really is a case by case problem IMHO. So herein I provide my case.
I am ordered a 2022 Mach 1 with the A10, but 99% of the reviews online are raving reviews on the Tremec manual. With at least 2 reviews claiming if you dont know how to drive one you can learn on the mach 1 easily.
For my case I...
- dont know how to drive manual
- plan on driving this daily. I live on the outskirts of a metro area, so there is bumper to bumper traffic on a semi-regular basis. There is also snow, and fair amount of hills (but locally not on highways). This will be my only car until I get another and this comes out only 1-2 times a week.
- Will track it probably no more than 2-4 times a year
- Im not a racecar driver, Im not interested in fraction of second differences. At best (or worst) only the aesthetics of the vehicle will ever be modified.
For the manual
Pros: Allegedly cheaper insurance, save $2K on trans, "more fun"
cons: "manuals suck in traffic", "manuals suck uphill", "the MT82 is unreliable"
The cons are my biggest confusion, as there are so many manual setups. So I need help answering these questions
WHY does manual + traffic suck? Does auto rev matching help it not suck in traffic? are there other features of this trans that make it suck less in traffic?
Does the tremec have "hill assist"
What are y'all opinions? Is manual really that much better? Is learning on this a bad idea? Will I ruin the car lol
After owning and driving these three extensively I'm pretty amazed at just how different they are. The Camaro is a 2SS manual with mag ride and is my current car. The Mustang was a GT Premium manual w/ 3.55 rear and the California Special package. The Charger had the 4 piston Brembos and 245 mm tires.
If you're not interested in reading a full comparison the tl:dr is the SS is my favorite and in a different league from the other two as far as driving dynamics. It drives like a heavier C7. Mustang is a good middle ground and the Scat Pack is fast, brutal and an amazing daily.
Interior:
To start with I'm 6'5 and weigh 210 pounds. I fit in all three of these cars fine. The Camaro is snug but not claustrophobic. However I did test drive a 6th gen with a sunroof and that was uncomfortable. The Mustang I fit fine and the Charger was huge inside. Interior quality is nothing to write home about on any of these but I was actually impressed with the Camaro. The materials (plastic and leather) look and feel nicer than the other two. The cabin feels like a cockpit. The Charger had horrendous looking plastic but had zero rattles even on the terrible roads near my house. The Mustang's materials looked nicer than the Chargers but it was the worst quality by far. Rattles, loose panels, everything creaked when you touched it.
All three have the touchscreen and the Charger wins out here. It's the fastest to respond, best looking and has the most stuff to play with such as real time hp/tq readouts and other performance measurements. Camaro is a close second on functionality and how high the screen resolution is. Mustang is a distant third. The Camaro's backup camera is a low quality compared to the other two. The Mustangs was the best resolution but the rear park assist chime is so loud and annoying.
The Charger had the Beats stereo and it is a distant third here. The Shaker Pro and the Bose system are close. I'd say the Bose is better at lower volumes and the Shaker is more clear at higher volume. It's a toss up for me on those two.
The Mustang had the most comfortable seats (base not Recaros) which also had great heating and okay cooling. I found the Charger's seats to be hard and somewhat uncomfortable. They look aggressive but don't do a very good job of holding you in corners. Heating and cooling were awesome though. The Camaro seats are snug and hold you in place when driving hard. Heating and cooling are not as good as the other two.
IMO overall interior goes
... keep reading on reddit ➡A year ago I moved from the States to Europe and decided to convert my ATP and a type rating for fun and (maybe) profit. When I asked various pilot forums if anyone had done it, the answer most gave was “don’t” and “really, seriously, don’t”. To call it a painful process is to undersell it. Of the many websites, regulators, examiners, and instructors I’ve asked for help and assistance along the way, almost none actually knew for certain what requirements I’d need to meet. I didn’t know what I didn’t know, and so chased many wrong paths before figuring out the right one. There are probably very few people reading this who might ever need to know it, but hopefully it’ll be searchable and the people who might need it, find it. Hello, future EASA pilots! If anyone else reads it, I hope you find it interesting.
TL;DR - you need 500 hrs on type and a PC within the last 12 months. The theory tests take 6-12 months to complete, so get working on those before you leave your day job and get one last recurrent checkride before you go. You can take your theory tests, medical, and checkride with any or several EASA member states, and your checkride can be taken in a country different from the one issuing the license, but the one issuing the license must also hold your medical.
Theory Tests
The new 2020 curriculum dropped the number of tests from 14 to 13. You have 18 months from taking the first test to the last, with up to 6 sittings total and 3 re-tests of any one subject. 75% is minimum passing, and you can retest failures. New pilots will need to take a ground school and get signed off to take the test, experienced flight crew (1500 hrs, 500 crewed, ATP, type rating) can apply for a waiver. I’m told grades around 90% will distinguish a novice applying for a first job, but for everyone else just pass and be done with it.The questions are awful and test pointless trivia far more than useful knowledge. What’s the X bit of a TCAS transmission do? How many liters of air are in your lungs after exhaling? Can you calculate the initial track of a great circle route by hand? What’s the subject of ICAO annex 6 part 1 section 3? Some of the questions are more appropriate for ATC, airport designers, mechanics, or avionics engineers. Pilots are end users who need to know how and why to use things, not how to design them, but even when the questions hit an important topic they typically miss the “how” and “why” for the “what”.
The study software ([aviationexam.com](http
... keep reading on reddit ➡Hey guys! I've just found this sub. So I have been driving manuals since the day I got my license, which is 7 years right now and all 3 of my cars were VW. I know VW has the worst 5 and 6 speed manual gearboxes but I've been buying them anyway since I have a close friend in the dealer and he gives me good prices. Anyway, as you may guess, I am sick and tired of this car's crappy manual experience so I want to ask you, which make should I go with? I've heard the new Honda Civic Type R has a great manual gearbox but could not try it because of the pandemic. I would love to hear your thoughts about which brand is the best in gearbox?
Just curious. I want to be certain the NON-SS models and NON LE1 modesl still get a solid, capable transmission! I just ordered a V6 recently, thats why Im asking. Thanks!
