With Android powered handhelds like the Retroid Pocket 2, Retroid Pocket 3, KT R1, and Odin emerging on the market, does that mean that we've now gotten to the point where Android can finally be utilised in order to make high quality games that would normally be seen on traditional consoles and handhelds - like PS4 and Switch Lite?
If someone like Nintendo, Sony, or MS were to create an Android powered gaming system, and on a purely technical level, would they still be able to craft the kind of games that they are renowned for? And would their (hypothetical) Android powered gaming systems allow third party developers to create full fledged console / handheld gaming experiences like Call Of Duty?
In short, and disregarding the perception problem which Android has... And purely on a technical level, why aren't we seeing a more mass-market push by gaming hardware companies in wanting to make Android powered gaming hardware? What's the reason for their hesitation? And can it be overcome?
Edit: Please voice your disagreement with a comment, not a downvote. I'm genuinely curious how people think about this and would love a discussion. Downvoting just buries the post. Thanks.
On paper the Switch is the superior console. It's more powerful, has a higher resolution screen, can be played on a TV, etc etc... but it just feels like something is missing. For the first year or so that I owned my Switch I thought I was just not as into video games as I used to be. It collected dust and went mostly unplayed for months at a time. It's not until I started gathering up 3DS games that I skipped in the past that I realized I just simply prefer the 3DS. I've always been a handheld guy and the Switch just doesn't feel like a handheld. It feels like a home console that you can hold in your hands. I know that's what many people want but I find that it lacks a distinct identity as a handheld.
The spirit of handheld gaming, in my opinion, has historically boiled down to one simple concept: limitation. The traditionally modest processing power of handhelds vs home consoles has forced developers, if they want a game on the system, to recalculate their franchises in all kinds of interesting ways or create new franchises altogether. The 3DS, DS, Gameboys, and even the PSP were home to all kinds of unique oddities, curiosities, offshoots, experiments, remakes, and demakes as a result. The Switch, however, is just powerful enough for straight ports such as Doom Eternal, The Witcher, Mortal Kombat, etc. To me these ports simply feel like lesser versions of the original game. There's nothing new, original or, frankly, impressive about them. It's not surprising that the Switch can run these the way it was surprising that the 3DS can run Metal Gear Solid: Snake Eater or Xenoblade Chronicles. There's nothing wrong with these ports per se and I don't fault developers for taking this easier route, but I can't help but miss having unique versions of games just for handhelds and/or handheld-only franchises. I miss the exclusivity and uniqueness of stereoscopic 3D versions of all kinds of games from the 3DS era.
Which brings me to the 3D effect itself. Frankly, I'll never understand why it's so under-appreciated. It's disappointing that the gaming media and many players wrote it off as little more than an unnecessary gimmick. No, it's not necessary, and yeah it's a gimmick, but damned if it isn't just plain cool and damned if it doesn't breathe so much life int
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Hello all, I've searching for the best way to calibrate my refractometer. The included instructions say to calibrate with distilled water to 1.000 but I also picked up some calibration fluid since I read somewhere it was more accurate. I also just got done with a brew day and decided to do a hydrometer reading to test everything against it. Brewed a Winter Ale with target gravity of 1.066
- Hydrometer is showing 1.068
- refractometer calibrated with distilled Water is showing 1.063
- refractometer calibrated with 35ppt liquid is showing 1.074
So one method is .005 under and the other method is .006 over. all liquids are around 68 Degrees F. Should I just calibrate the refractometer to the Hydrometer reading and call it a day?
I can't justify the cost of a VST refractometer as I only want to have a refractometer for occasional use, to check the impact of changes to methods and equipment (not only pour-over, but also espresso).
Are the refractometers from Soonda that are sold on aliexpress for less than 100 USD any good? What about those from Milwaukee Instruments or Lnicez Instruments that sell on Amazon for not a lot more?
Thanks!
I was going to buy one from amazon and measure brix so I don't reduce, top off, too much. I was reading a refractometer may be less accurate if there is a lot of oil in the soup, I imagined I needed to stir before I took a sample but there is a lot of oil in pork bone broth.
Hi, I have a deep love for coffee, tinkering and data. Are there any DIY particle size analyzers (for grinder comparisons) or refractometers (for TDS extraction) for coffee? For the the particles, I know about the wonderful app by Coffeeadastra, but is there anything better?
Given my background, I would be willing to try to home-build a laser diffraction particle analyzer and/or a TDS meter for coffee. Not sure how realistic or cost-effective would it be, considering the optics, but I won't know until I start. Would there be interest in the community for such projects or the data wouldn't be so useful?
I am trying to brew a gluten-free Märzen with Munich roasted millet, pale millet malt, and rice syrup. My OG was 1.059 measured by a hydrometer. My wife broke the hydrometer (third one on my fourth brew) two days after this brew started. Our sink is angled steeply and a tall cylinder isn't stable in it, so I decided to switch to a refractometer. I should add that I'm using Safale US-05. I know Märzens are traditionally a lager. Beer is also traditionally made with barley. Stupid celiac disease.
The refractometer I ordered has SG on one side of the eyepiece, and Brix on the other. I measured the density of some sucrose/water mixtures and they were perfect, so I didn't have to calibrate it. Since SG was on the eyepiece already, I ignored the Brix reading.
No visible fermentation after 5 days or so. I checked gravity at 7 days as 1.027. I traveled for a week and checked gravity, again as 1.027. I was reading up on stuck fermentation here and saw some comments on adjusting refractometers for ethanol content. How much will that change the reading?
According to this, with a Brix of 6.8 (which would be 1.027 according to a conversion, I didn't write down the Brix number), I'm below 1.010?
Has anyone use the imagitarium refractometer? The instructions says to have both the lower white field and upper blue field to meet at zero, though most videos say to calibrate it at 35ppm is it some kind of their way to calibrate than the other types?
Hi, I am making red wine from grape, and after about three weeks of fermentation, I find that the refractometer reading is stuck at 7 B. So I checked the hydrometer reading and it is reading just below 0.99. I can't explain the difference. According to what I have read, a hydrometer reading of 0.99 means fermentation is complete. But refractometer seems to suggest that there is still some residual sugar.
Would you suggest continuing fermentation further, or is the wine ready to rack and age?
Thank you for your help.
I have been. I'm a long time beer and.wine Brewer but.new to kombucha. For my last couple kombucha brews, my pre and post measurements have been baasiclaly the same. I'm thinking this is because the byproducts of fermentation have a similar density as the sweetened tea mixture. Has anyone else found this to be the case?
